EGR valve question...
My EGR plate has been removed for several years.
I zip tied the plunger closed (all the way in) on the EGR valve itself. My engine will not idle when cold, and cuts out. The tach does not go to zero so my ignition seems to be good.
While warming up, I have to goose it to keep it running.
It runs great, almost perfect once it is warm.
I've replaced/checked the IAB, TPS, ACT, ECT, MAF, fuel pump, coil, fuel pump relay, and looked for vacuum leaks.
How do ya'll have your EGR's blocked off? Since I have all emissions stuff removed can I just disconnect the EGR valve too? Or does it provide some reference signal to the EEC-IV? I'm frustrated at this point, it's been happening for a week now.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
Last edited by Hozer 88GTConv; 12-08-2005 at 08:29 PM..
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