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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() 1. Do I need to disconnect anything besides the 2 bolts holding the mounts to the K member before I jack up the motor (I have an electric fan so I don't need to worry about the fan and shroud)
2. How high can I jack up the motor without having to worry about breaking something? 3. Any tips on removing the 2 bolts buried under the K member? TIA guys |
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#2 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() 1. I'd loosen the center of the tranny mount so you dont put it in a bind.
2. I wouldnt go really high, but just do it slowly, then walk around and make sure nothing is binding, then go from there. 3. A can of WD-40, a breaker bar, a decent amount of ground clearance, and alot of leverage. good luck, --Drew
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Just a big socket and breaker bar outta do ya fine.
You can raise the motor an easy 2" before I would even worry. Tip: Loosen ALL the bolts, before you finish taking off the bolts or raising the motor.
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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#4 |
He said Member...heh, heh
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 3,718
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![]() BTW, bring alot of patience with ya.... Mine were a *****!
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Joe! 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com |
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#5 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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![]() Make sure that your vavle covers don't hit your firewall. Other then that, you shouldn't have any major problems. I did mine on the ground useing a hydo. jack and hand tools. I lifted the motor up about 4 inches. Oh, don't forget... when you jack up the motor, use a big block of wood between the jack and the oil pan. You don't want to crush anything
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() Thanks guys. I got the nuts that hold the mounts to the K member off and one bolt off each mount, gotta see how high I can jack the motor up to get at the ones buried under the K member. I'm going to try those last 2 bolts this afternoon, thanks for the advice.
Chris |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() Well a buddy came by and we got the bolts out and the old mounts out but it turns out that Autozone gave me the wrong driver side mount so I had to order it and hopefully pick it up today. Does it ever seem like nothing is as easy as it's supposed to be
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#8 |
He said Member...heh, heh
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 3,718
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![]() LOL it never is!
![]() Hey you got 420 posts! ![]()
__________________
Joe! 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com |
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#9 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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![]() Are you installing the Convertable mounts? If not I'd recommend them. They are a bit stronger than factory stock mounts.
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Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241 |
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#10 | |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() Quote:
i'm hungry, anyone got some cheese balls?
__________________
NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: West Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 391
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![]() yea, what are the exact differences between the convertable and stock mounts??
thanks, adam
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90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 117
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![]() It's the exhaust heat and age that usually trash the stock mounts.
I have a good contact at a Ford dealer who does all their performance parts. He said that Ford changed the Mustang mounts in 92 to a mount used on the Lincolns. They are more stout and resist the heat. He said they bolt right into the pre 92 cars. I don't have the part # but hopefully your local Ford parts guy can figure it out. Surprise - These newer style mounts cost about $30.00 less (each) than the older ones. If you use these mounts you will find that they go in differently because they have a different overall shape. It's kind of like a puzzle to snake the old ones out and a different puzzle to get the new ones in. Thus like everyone has said - you keep jacking the motor higher to gain that little bit more room. Best tools - impact gun and plenty of swear words. Dan
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Spec Service (UHP), BFG G-Force KDW's, Turbo Coupe 3.55 rear w/disks, 73mm calipers, Stg 1 Twisted Wedges, TFS Street Intake, 70mm TB, E cam, Crane 1.7's, Aeromotive FPR, BBK 1 5/8 shorties, elec fan, FMS Al Radiator, Moroso Wires, Kenne Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, 190 lph Walbro, FMS Al Dshaft, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C spngs, strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, Prothane bushings, MM Lwr Conrol Arms, KB welded subs, Cervini Mach 1 hood/valence/side skirts/wing/airdam. |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() Well from what I can see the vert mounts are a little thinner and the rubber bushing in it is completely wrapped in steel to make it firmer and less likely to flex. I heard that the vert mounts were used in all the Mustangs after 92. From what I can see the mount looks exactly the same as the old one except for being a little thinner (less rubber) and the metal body of it completely wraps the rubber, same bolt patterns and shape. Definitely appears much stronger. Hopefully throw the drivers side on in the morning and be driving the Stang all weekend.
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#14 |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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![]() fiveohpatrol and JL1314, you have been selected to take part in Mustangworks annual drug testing sessions, testing will start in 1 min.
fiveohpatrol: ![]() ![]() JL1314: ![]() ![]() J/p with you guys. ![]() Last edited by 1BAD89; 03-29-2002 at 02:21 AM.. |
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#15 | |
He said Member...heh, heh
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 3,718
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![]() Quote:
LOL But you knew the secret handshake too! ![]() Here's your cup too!! hehehehe! ![]() ![]()
__________________
Joe! 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: West Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 391
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![]() DAN:
so what do you ask for at the parts counter? 92 lincoln mounts??? are they better than the convertable mounts?? please elaborate on this.... thanks, adam
__________________
90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com |
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