please respond:(

vande97 · 05-07-2001, 07:23 PM

I think i need to get the top half of my engine rebuilt i can here the lifters starting to tick pretty good, it is really imbarrising but i figure if i get them done i might as well get everthing done in the top half of motor it is a 5.0 88 to be exact! but my question is how much should i expect to spend to have a garage do this for me? alos how much more do you think it would be if they ported and polished the heads maybe milled them also? i dont want to get ripped off. and if anyone know's a good shop to take it to(around michigan) that would be a +
thank again guys

Smokedawg · 05-07-2001, 07:39 PM

Well, to port, polish and mill the heads should cost around 400(including valve job w/new valves, new springs and spring locks). Then to port and polish the upper and lower intake around 130-150. New roller lifters are going to cost ya bout 9-11 dollars each. 180 for new roller rocker arms.

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

vande97 · 05-07-2001, 08:44 PM

thanks for the quick reply, that helped alot but do you think that a shop will take everthing apart for that amount of $, or would i have to pull everything apart myself?

gray87GT · 05-07-2001, 10:04 PM

I would tear it apart youself, it really isn't that hard if you take you time. A friend and I tore mine down in a couple hours. It's a real good learning experience, it's nice to know how your motor is put together. It's not hard to build either.....just get a Haynes manual and follow the instruction. Even my Fel-Pro gasket set had instruction for installing the heads and intake.

vande97 · 05-07-2001, 10:42 PM

just one more thing i ned to get stright i need to buy roller lifters or just hydrolic lifters...it is a HO
thanks again

smokedchevy · 05-08-2001, 01:38 AM

Your HO has hydraulic roller lifters. In the world of cams there are flat tappet and roller cams. Flat tappet cams require the regular solid or hydraulic lifter. They do not have rollers on the bottom. Your mustang has the better roller cam, which means the lifters have rollers on the bottom. This allows the cam to be ground more aggressively with great drivability. Even among roller lifters there are hydraulic and solid lifters. Without writing a book on this subject, a basic rule is street cars use hydraulic lifters and race cars use solid lifters. To answer your question you need hydraulic roller lifters.

Smokedawg · 05-08-2001, 08:31 AM

That 400 is including the machine shop tearing down, now I had to pay for the new springs separate. If you want stock replacement springs it will run you around 45 dollars for all of them, now I believe you can get comp springs for only like 75. Just depends on how high you want your motor to rev. I think the stock replacement springs are only suppost to be good for like 6 grand or so.

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

2FastLX · 05-08-2001, 09:23 AM

My heads cost me $140 to have a 3 angle valve job and pressure tested. The guys at the shop can let you know if you need new valves (or valve guides). Mine were fine. I ported and shaved the heads myself so that was free. I would expect to have paid around $250-$300 to have that done at the most.

I can't see a shop tearing an engine down and doing all that work on a set of heads plus the new valves and springs for anywhere near $400. They will more than likely charge you $400 in labor alone. I'd guess with gaskets, labor, misc parts, etc, you will be looking at $1000

If you aren't comfortable at all tearing your engine down and reinstalling everything have a friend help or take it to a shop. But it's really not that bad. At least if you run into snags you can get help here

The best thing to do is mark where everything goes and have a Chilton's manual handy when you reassemble it.

Either way, good luck.

------------------
Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph

Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

gofastlx · 05-08-2001, 09:45 AM

If you want to bring your long block down to the detroit area, I'll rebuild the upper, and I know of a few places that can do your heads as well...

Rob
gofastlx@yahoo.com

vande97 · 05-08-2001, 10:10 AM

I am pretty comfortable in pulling and putting everthing back together i have done this before just not a HO i did a 351w pretty much the same thing! but i live in an apartment complex

I was pretty sure that i needed roller lifters but but somebody at work tryed to tell me diff: that is why i asked. I would do this all myself but i dont think people would like to see my car all torn apart in the parking lot i think that is agains the rules.

thaks alot guys you been a big help!!!!
and hey gofastlx, how about i just drive the car down and we just start from there

gofastlx · 05-08-2001, 10:38 AM

Hell, I'd say do it, but the sub association would slap a fine on me so fast..., and unfortunately I don't have the garage space to fit another car...

Rob

Smokedawg · 05-08-2001, 01:25 PM

2FastLX : you are from indiana right. Give a call to Quinlins machine shop in indy right of madison ave and see what they will do for 400. Guarantee its exactly what i said.

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-09-2001, 02:25 AM

Here's a useless idea for taking your car apart in the lot:
all the pieces you take off your car put in the trunk, keep a drain pan underneath to catch debris, and when you're done for the day/taking a break, shut the hood and no one will know unless they see you in the act. If anyone gives you sh/t tell them you're being very neat and clean and then point out a car that looks worse than yours and say "see that, are you going to fine them also!"
just some ideas.
Good luck!

2FastLX · 05-09-2001, 10:43 AM

Maybe so Smokedawg. For just the head work. But my guess was for the whole job start to finish. Not just the machine shop work.

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 05-09-2001).]

vande97 · 05-09-2001, 05:56 PM

I called a shop today and they said that they would do the whole top end for 1200$, I think i am going to save my money and do it myself. 84stang you hit it right on the head anytime i do work on the car that is just how i do it, except last time when i was changing the water pump and i got a whole sh*t load of antifreeze in the parking lot the next day i saw a dog playing in it(whoops)...lol. but anyway i thinki can save a hell of alot of money and just have the heads sent out. IS there anybody on here that might do the port and polishing for me also mill them????

05-07-2001, 07:23 PM	#1
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	please respond:( I think i need to get the top half of my engine rebuilt i can here the lifters starting to tick pretty good, it is really imbarrising but i figure if i get them done i might as well get everthing done in the top half of motor it is a 5.0 88 to be exact! but my question is how much should i expect to spend to have a garage do this for me? alos how much more do you think it would be if they ported and polished the heads maybe milled them also? i dont want to get ripped off. and if anyone know's a good shop to take it to(around michigan) that would be a + thank again guys

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05-07-2001, 07:39 PM	#2
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	Well, to port, polish and mill the heads should cost around 400(including valve job w/new valves, new springs and spring locks). Then to port and polish the upper and lower intake around 130-150. New roller lifters are going to cost ya bout 9-11 dollars each. 180 for new roller rocker arms. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-07-2001, 08:44 PM	#3
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	thanks for the quick reply, that helped alot but do you think that a shop will take everthing apart for that amount of $, or would i have to pull everything apart myself?

05-07-2001, 10:04 PM	#4
gray87GT Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Minnesota Posts: 177	I would tear it apart youself, it really isn't that hard if you take you time. A friend and I tore mine down in a couple hours. It's a real good learning experience, it's nice to know how your motor is put together. It's not hard to build either.....just get a Haynes manual and follow the instruction. Even my Fel-Pro gasket set had instruction for installing the heads and intake.

05-07-2001, 10:42 PM	#5
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	just one more thing i ned to get stright i need to buy roller lifters or just hydrolic lifters...it is a HO thanks again

05-08-2001, 01:38 AM	#6
smokedchevy Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: ventura,CA Posts: 438	Your HO has hydraulic roller lifters. In the world of cams there are flat tappet and roller cams. Flat tappet cams require the regular solid or hydraulic lifter. They do not have rollers on the bottom. Your mustang has the better roller cam, which means the lifters have rollers on the bottom. This allows the cam to be ground more aggressively with great drivability. Even among roller lifters there are hydraulic and solid lifters. Without writing a book on this subject, a basic rule is street cars use hydraulic lifters and race cars use solid lifters. To answer your question you need hydraulic roller lifters.

05-08-2001, 08:31 AM	#7
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	That 400 is including the machine shop tearing down, now I had to pay for the new springs separate. If you want stock replacement springs it will run you around 45 dollars for all of them, now I believe you can get comp springs for only like 75. Just depends on how high you want your motor to rev. I think the stock replacement springs are only suppost to be good for like 6 grand or so. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-08-2001, 09:23 AM	#8
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	My heads cost me $140 to have a 3 angle valve job and pressure tested. The guys at the shop can let you know if you need new valves (or valve guides). Mine were fine. I ported and shaved the heads myself so that was free. I would expect to have paid around $250-$300 to have that done at the most. I can't see a shop tearing an engine down and doing all that work on a set of heads plus the new valves and springs for anywhere near $400. They will more than likely charge you $400 in labor alone. I'd guess with gaskets, labor, misc parts, etc, you will be looking at $1000 If you aren't comfortable at all tearing your engine down and reinstalling everything have a friend help or take it to a shop. But it's really not that bad. At least if you run into snags you can get help here The best thing to do is mark where everything goes and have a Chilton's manual handy when you reassemble it. Either way, good luck. ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241

05-08-2001, 09:45 AM	#9
gofastlx Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Posts: 40	If you want to bring your long block down to the detroit area, I'll rebuild the upper, and I know of a few places that can do your heads as well... Rob gofastlx@yahoo.com

05-08-2001, 10:10 AM	#10
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	I am pretty comfortable in pulling and putting everthing back together i have done this before just not a HO i did a 351w pretty much the same thing! but i live in an apartment complex I was pretty sure that i needed roller lifters but but somebody at work tryed to tell me diff: that is why i asked. I would do this all myself but i dont think people would like to see my car all torn apart in the parking lot i think that is agains the rules. thaks alot guys you been a big help!!!! and hey gofastlx, how about i just drive the car down and we just start from there

05-08-2001, 10:38 AM	#11
gofastlx Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Posts: 40	Hell, I'd say do it, but the sub association would slap a fine on me so fast..., and unfortunately I don't have the garage space to fit another car... Rob

05-08-2001, 01:25 PM	#12
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	2FastLX : you are from indiana right. Give a call to Quinlins machine shop in indy right of madison ave and see what they will do for 400. Guarantee its exactly what i said. ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

05-09-2001, 02:25 AM	#13
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	Here's a useless idea for taking your car apart in the lot: all the pieces you take off your car put in the trunk, keep a drain pan underneath to catch debris, and when you're done for the day/taking a break, shut the hood and no one will know unless they see you in the act. If anyone gives you sh/t tell them you're being very neat and clean and then point out a car that looks worse than yours and say "see that, are you going to fine them also!" just some ideas. Good luck!

05-09-2001, 10:43 AM	#14
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Maybe so Smokedawg. For just the head work. But my guess was for the whole job start to finish. Not just the machine shop work. [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 05-09-2001).]

05-09-2001, 05:56 PM	#15
vande97 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: okemos Posts: 205	I called a shop today and they said that they would do the whole top end for 1200$, I think i am going to save my money and do it myself. 84stang you hit it right on the head anytime i do work on the car that is just how i do it, except last time when i was changing the water pump and i got a whole sh*t load of antifreeze in the parking lot the next day i saw a dog playing in it(whoops)...lol. but anyway i thinki can save a hell of alot of money and just have the heads sent out. IS there anybody on here that might do the port and polishing for me also mill them????