losing coolant, and heater wont work????

Coupe50h · 10-29-2002, 10:26 PM

Well my heater stopped working tonight, and it ran hot in the drive thru tonight, cooled down driving, i got home and checked coolant, really low, and it was leaking....ok, leaking out of the firewall near the exhaust flange? if that makes any sense? there is a hole there with rubber around it, what is that? any help would be great, thanx again. im stumped? hope its not the heater core

Coupe50h · 10-29-2002, 10:29 PM

ok more info, i pulled the cap and saw that the radiator was barely flowing, like its clogged, havent flushed in a while, also i see no coolant leaking under the dash, or on the floorboard.

guess im flushing the radiator, but what about the leaky area?

stephen · 10-29-2002, 10:34 PM

The ruber thing you are refering to is the ac drain that drains the water condensation that runs off the evaporator core. if coolant is leaking from there the heater core is definetly leaking. You can by-pass the heater core by taking the two heater hoses that connect to the firewall and join them together with a hose splice you can get at a auto parts store or pull the intire dash and replace the heater core.The reason the heater quit working is the cooling system was way too low on water.

Coupe50h · 10-29-2002, 10:56 PM

Yea i understand why the heater wouldnt heat, is there a chance the heater core isnt leaking, and only releived condensation? well i guess i'll find out, problem is, the heater needs a flush badly, guess maybe i'll try the heater after that, man its getting cold too

The leak is not bad though, maybe it's not shot yet, just needs flow.....thnx

horsesnake95 · 10-29-2002, 11:50 PM

Well, it could just be a bad hose right there at the firewall if it's not leaking into the passenger compartment, but with my past experiences with mustangs the heater core is most likely shot and needs replaced.... Good luck with that though. Maybe your one of the lucky few.

7000rpmisheaven · 10-30-2002, 01:36 PM

When my heater core went it did the exact same thing. I byapssed it until i had the time to fix it. Go bypass it and fill the radiator back up and see that it fixes your problem. Both hoses run into the firewall. take one of these off. Run the one that is left from the intake to the water pump. No need to go out and buy anything.

briand · 10-30-2002, 01:49 PM

sorry guy but that definatley sounds like your heater core is leaking. take my advice and just replace the thing. it really isn't that bad of a job if you take your time. if you bypass it, it will be something that you will always put off and never fix. but if it is leaking antifreeze from the drain in the firewall, it is definatley shot. good luck man

Coupe50h · 10-30-2002, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 7000rpmisheaven
When my heater core went it did the exact same thing. I byapssed it until i had the time to fix it. Go bypass it and fill the radiator back up and see that it fixes your problem. Both hoses run into the firewall. take one of these off. Run the one that is left from the intake to the water pump. No need to go out and buy anything.

appreciate it, so i wont need a longer hose? basicaly turning one back towards the wp? sounds easy enough, man i want my heater but i need it fixed temporary, after all i live in south tx, it does'nt stay that cold for long........

MattwantsSpeed · 10-30-2002, 10:27 PM

I didn't read the responses too much but I would guess heater core or stuck/bad thermostat.

Coupe50h · 10-30-2002, 10:42 PM

well thanx, but i can see the t-stat opening, well, i mean the water circulating when it heats up in the rad.

7000rpms, could you be more specific on the hose routing trick, i dont have a light now, so i cant see what you mean, but i'll try and see in the morning.
thnx....later

7000rpmisheaven · 10-31-2002, 08:12 AM

There are two heater hoses. One comes out of the intake and goes into the firewall. The other comes out of the firewall rigfht next to it and goes into the water pump. The idea is to take the heater core out of equation. The two tubes coming out of the firewall run into and out of the heater core. You disconnect both hoses from here to disconnect the heater core from the cooling system. But then you have two open hose ends. Take one hose off completely, it doesn't matter which one. connect the remaining hose to where you took the other one off of, whether it is the water pump or the intake. Coolant will go from the intake to the water pump without going through the heater core.

The only thing you need is a screw driver. Oh yeah, don't forget to drain coolant from the radiator, or else coolant will come pouring out when you disconnect the hoses.

429mustang · 10-31-2002, 06:00 PM

Are you sure it's not one of the heater hoses going into the firewall thats leaking? Mine has done that twice, it slowly leaked out over time, then I'd notice my temp. would go up and the heater wouldn't work until the temp went back down, which would only last for a little bit until the air in the system recirculated, then the temp went back up/no heat. It could be the heater core, just make sure it's not something way more simple.

Coupe50h · 11-02-2002, 06:43 PM

Well sorry to keep this stupid thread alive, but just wanted to thank to all who helped, at first i could not get those stupid son of a @$#%^'s off!!, i eventually cut them off, i assume the hoses were 12 yrs old, and were'nt coming off.

anyway it's bypassed, at first the car got hot, and i thought maybe a t-stat, but it was just air in the system, cuz it is running cool as could be now, thnx again, im going to try and survive this winter without the heat

82 GT · 11-02-2002, 07:41 PM

Welcome to the NO HEAT club. My heater core went bad on my '88 last week. It was doing the same thing yours did...leaking from that drain tube.
I bet it was dripping on the exhaust and makeing steam all the time...huh?
I have great links on how to replace the core step by step with photos if you want them.(Thanks MOC).
Count on about 8-9 hrs of work replacing it though. I haven't fixed it yet but from what I'm told and read, it's not going to be fun!!

10-29-2002, 10:26 PM	#1
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	losing coolant, and heater wont work???? Well my heater stopped working tonight, and it ran hot in the drive thru tonight, cooled down driving, i got home and checked coolant, really low, and it was leaking....ok, leaking out of the firewall near the exhaust flange? if that makes any sense? there is a hole there with rubber around it, what is that? any help would be great, thanx again. im stumped? hope its not the heater core __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

10-29-2002, 10:29 PM	#2
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	ok more info, i pulled the cap and saw that the radiator was barely flowing, like its clogged, havent flushed in a while, also i see no coolant leaking under the dash, or on the floorboard. guess im flushing the radiator, but what about the leaky area? __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

10-29-2002, 10:34 PM	#3
stephen Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Pearland Tx Posts: 2	NO HEAT The ruber thing you are refering to is the ac drain that drains the water condensation that runs off the evaporator core. if coolant is leaking from there the heater core is definetly leaking. You can by-pass the heater core by taking the two heater hoses that connect to the firewall and join them together with a hose splice you can get at a auto parts store or pull the intire dash and replace the heater core.The reason the heater quit working is the cooling system was way too low on water.

10-29-2002, 10:56 PM	#4
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Yea i understand why the heater wouldnt heat, is there a chance the heater core isnt leaking, and only releived condensation? well i guess i'll find out, problem is, the heater needs a flush badly, guess maybe i'll try the heater after that, man its getting cold too The leak is not bad though, maybe it's not shot yet, just needs flow.....thnx __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

10-30-2002, 01:36 PM	#6
7000rpmisheaven Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: germantown MD Posts: 283	When my heater core went it did the exact same thing. I byapssed it until i had the time to fix it. Go bypass it and fill the radiator back up and see that it fixes your problem. Both hoses run into the firewall. take one of these off. Run the one that is left from the intake to the water pump. No need to go out and buy anything. __________________ 85 GT 4bbl roller cam 2 ch. Flowmasters, O/R H-pipe Performer intake and carb milodon water pump, FMS 9mm wires, aluminum driveshaft, king cobra clutch

10-29-2002, 11:50 PM	#5
horsesnake95 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: illinois Posts: 26	Well, it could just be a bad hose right there at the firewall if it's not leaking into the passenger compartment, but with my past experiences with mustangs the heater core is most likely shot and needs replaced.... Good luck with that though. Maybe your one of the lucky few.

10-30-2002, 01:49 PM	#7
briand Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Jackson, LA Posts: 264	sorry guy but that definatley sounds like your heater core is leaking. take my advice and just replace the thing. it really isn't that bad of a job if you take your time. if you bypass it, it will be something that you will always put off and never fix. but if it is leaking antifreeze from the drain in the firewall, it is definatley shot. good luck man __________________ GT-40X heads(58cc), Cobra upper and lower, 75 mm Bullet, Moroso fenderwell induction, FRPP 65mm TB, 24# injectors, black magic electric fan, phenolic spacer, 1.7 crane cobra roller rockers, crane 2031, BBK 1 5/8 equal length hearders, 2.5 inch off road pipe, 2.5 flowmaster catback, FMS 3.55 gears, T5-Z transmission, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, svo heavy duty clutch, mcleod bullet proff bellhousing, BBK adjustable cluth quadrant, hurst billet shifter, lakewood subframes, BBK strut tower brace, BBK 2pt lower cross bar, FMS 190 lph fuel pump, crane ps91 coil, FMS street pulleys, and 300+ race wires. All thanks goes to my wife sheri, jason, jeff, robby, my dad and all others you helped contribute. most importantly GOD!!!

10-30-2002, 10:27 PM	#9
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	I didn't read the responses too much but I would guess heater core or stuck/bad thermostat. __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

10-30-2002, 10:42 PM	#10
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	well thanx, but i can see the t-stat opening, well, i mean the water circulating when it heats up in the rad. 7000rpms, could you be more specific on the hose routing trick, i dont have a light now, so i cant see what you mean, but i'll try and see in the morning. thnx....later __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

10-31-2002, 08:12 AM	#11
7000rpmisheaven Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: germantown MD Posts: 283	There are two heater hoses. One comes out of the intake and goes into the firewall. The other comes out of the firewall rigfht next to it and goes into the water pump. The idea is to take the heater core out of equation. The two tubes coming out of the firewall run into and out of the heater core. You disconnect both hoses from here to disconnect the heater core from the cooling system. But then you have two open hose ends. Take one hose off completely, it doesn't matter which one. connect the remaining hose to where you took the other one off of, whether it is the water pump or the intake. Coolant will go from the intake to the water pump without going through the heater core. The only thing you need is a screw driver. Oh yeah, don't forget to drain coolant from the radiator, or else coolant will come pouring out when you disconnect the hoses. __________________ 85 GT 4bbl roller cam 2 ch. Flowmasters, O/R H-pipe Performer intake and carb milodon water pump, FMS 9mm wires, aluminum driveshaft, king cobra clutch

10-31-2002, 06:00 PM	#12
429mustang Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: westerville, OH USA Posts: 618	Are you sure it's not one of the heater hoses going into the firewall thats leaking? Mine has done that twice, it slowly leaked out over time, then I'd notice my temp. would go up and the heater wouldn't work until the temp went back down, which would only last for a little bit until the air in the system recirculated, then the temp went back up/no heat. It could be the heater core, just make sure it's not something way more simple. __________________ 1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns.

11-02-2002, 06:43 PM	#13
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Well sorry to keep this stupid thread alive, but just wanted to thank to all who helped, at first i could not get those stupid son of a @$#%^'s off!!, i eventually cut them off, i assume the hoses were 12 yrs old, and were'nt coming off. anyway it's bypassed, at first the car got hot, and i thought maybe a t-stat, but it was just air in the system, cuz it is running cool as could be now, thnx again, im going to try and survive this winter without the heat __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

11-02-2002, 07:41 PM	#14
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Welcome to the NO HEAT club. My heater core went bad on my '88 last week. It was doing the same thing yours did...leaking from that drain tube. I bet it was dripping on the exhaust and makeing steam all the time...huh? I have great links on how to replace the core step by step with photos if you want them.(Thanks MOC). Count on about 8-9 hrs of work replacing it though. I haven't fixed it yet but from what I'm told and read, it's not going to be fun!! __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

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