New Clutch etc.....

B2r3y · 02-07-2003, 05:13 PM

allright guys i have had my 88 5.0 GT for about a week and a 1/2 now and i love it. It had a broken tranny mount when i got it and i just havent got around to putting it in or anything, the thing is will this effect anything like when im shifting becuz i was shifting today playing with a vette and i double clutched first gear and it just jumped outta 1st and it sound like the hole tranny hit the ground and then i did it again and same thing but not anytime after that but now it is a bit rougher to put it in first and everything so i dunno what could be the probelm. can anyone tell me whats wrong or any ideas?

also im going to be ordering a new clutch and pressure plate with a new bearing so i was wondering if anyone has done anyh clutch and pressure plate swaps and if so what would be the best clutch and p.p to use for everyday driver and racing and also im going to be upgrading the mods on it soon...

Please helpp!!!!!!!!!!
thanks bryan

Coupe50h · 02-07-2003, 05:53 PM

I use the king cobra, fairlly cheap, and seems to hold good even on e.t. streets, i recomend it.

When i got my car years ago it had a fastener missing from the trans mount, i went ahead and replaced it with an energy suspension polyurethane, then i found another bolt, it works pretty good, you might replace that all together, do you have an after market shifter? if so, look at the adjustable stops, if not, i suggest you get a better shifter.

B2r3y · 02-07-2003, 06:55 PM

No i dont have an aftermarket shifter but i do have a stock shifter ( 2nd one) that im going to cut out the center extension on it and weld it back together to create a short throw shifter. A friend has one that works pretty good.

Also how serious is a broken tranny mount? I have been riding around with it for a while and when i shift it pops and everything but thats cuz its broke. How soon should i have this replaced and can it cause any damage?

Where can i pick up a king cobra set up and for about how much? I need one soon.

Bryan

Jthompson · 02-07-2003, 07:35 PM

First of all, I hate to jump on your case, but shifting like that when you know you have a bad mount is just plain dumb, especially since you did it again after you did it the first time. If it is harder to shift now, you may have some issues.

A few tips. My tranny was making some clunking sounds, and the shifter actually jumped to the left on acceleration, I thought trans mount too, I bought the energy suspensions poly eur. trans mount and jacked up the front of my car.

I actually found that the bolts that secured the transmission to the bellhousing were loose !!!! You may want to make sure all the bolts underneath are good and secure. The trans mount goes in like a piece of cake. I didn't have to remove the exhaust or anything. You may need a jack to support the trans to position it in place. I did have to remove one side of the crossmember, but in hindsight now, I might not have even had to do that. The trans mount is a very easy 1 hour or less ( 20 mins easy if you are good) project. I would do that IMMEDIATELY!!!

I have a ford racing clutch in my stang. It is the second one I have. It is the heavy duty one, not the king cobra. WHile those two are identical, the heavy duty costs less, has the same gripping power, but takes the might of a herd of elephants to press down. Kinda nice for an excuse for others not to drive your car.

Anyway, can't go wrong with the ford racing clutch, king cobra, or the spec, which seems to be very popular also, these are easily the two most popular.

Don't throw in a new clutch without going to an aluminum double or triple hook quadrant with firewall adjuster, steeda makes a nice kit for that.

Coupe50h · 02-08-2003, 12:03 AM

You can get a kk clutch for about 199$ through summitt, or jegs, local performance shops around here sell them for around 210, the regular hd motorsport is too hard for me, at least in traffic, but has the same disc as the kk, and is about 169$

The cutting and weld stock shifter is alright i guess, but it wont have the postive shift stop's like an aftermarket one, then you might overshift and damage your t-5, thats what destroyed my last t-5, missing 3rd, now with my ripper shifter, i dont miss 3rd to begin with.

429mustang · 02-08-2003, 01:16 AM

What do you mean double clutching???? I thought double clutching was for transmissions without or with with bad synchros. Do you mean power shifting (not letting off the gas between shifts)???

B2r3y · 02-08-2003, 03:08 PM

allright well i got the tranny mount in witch im happy about and no i thought the shifting was harder but its all the same so i didnt mess anything up thankfully.

about the ford racing clutch HD, im prolly intrested in this clutch. What kind of pressure will it hold up to and will i get a good p.p. with it? Im also thinking about looking at the dual friction center force clutch. Has anyone tested this clutch and how does it hold up to the Ford racing HD?

Also about clutches, jthompson--

Quote:

Don't throw in a new clutch without going to an aluminum double or triple hook quadrant with firewall adjuster, steeda makes a nice kit for that.

what is this and how much does it cost? also where can i pick it up at along with the ford racing HD clutch and pp?
thanks
bryan

429mustang · 02-08-2003, 08:39 PM

I got the Ford racking HD cluth/pp. It grabs pretty hard, it hasn't slipped yet burning out/high rpm shifts. I got it at jegs for around $160-170, comes w/clutch,pressure plate,throwout bearing. Unless your running 12's or quicker, or race all the time at the track w/slicks, it should hold up good. When I got my car it already had the HD clutch in it for a few years, I drove it for another 2 years burning out all the time and racing it a bunch before it finally wore out. I'd probably get your flywheel resurfaced, I spent around $30 at carquest and they did it in a few hours while I got everything else apart.

bigred90gt · 02-08-2003, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by B2r3y
No i dont have an aftermarket shifter but i do have a stock shifter ( 2nd one) that im going to cut out the center extension on it and weld it back together to create a short throw shifter. A friend has one that works pretty good.

Also how serious is a broken tranny mount? I have been riding around with it for a while and when i shift it pops and everything but thats cuz its broke. How soon should i have this replaced and can it cause any damage?

Where can i pick up a king cobra set up and for about how much? I need one soon.

Bryan

Since you live in the H-town, I would suggest checking out Tommy Vaughn Ford Parts Dept. It os off of I10 and Durham. Go north on Durham hill and it is at the bottom of the hill on the left. They stock and sell anything you could ever want for that car. The good thing is that the prices are the same as Summit and Jegs, you just dont have to wait for it to get here. As far as the Center Force Dual Friction, from what I have heard, it is one of the better clutches out there. I have no personal experience with it, that is just what I've heard.

Caymon

bigred90gt · 02-10-2003, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigred90gt
Since you live in the H-town, I would suggest checking out Tommy Vaughn Ford Parts Dept. It os off of I10 and Durham. Go north on Durham hill and it is at the bottom of the hill on the left. They stock and sell anything you could ever want for that car. The good thing is that the prices are the same as Summit and Jegs, you just dont have to wait for it to get here. As far as the Center Force Dual Friction, from what I have heard, it is one of the better clutches out there. I have no personal experience with it, that is just what I've heard.

Caymon

Let me rephrase that. Exit Durham and go north OVER the hill. It is on the left at the bottom of the hill.

Caymon

mike72678 · 02-10-2003, 01:36 PM

you might also want to invest in an adjustable clutch quadrant and cable kit so you can adjust your catch point and be sure that your clutch is under full pressure so it won't slip . you can get them at www.neweraperformanceparts.com for $54 which is a great price .

Jthompson · 02-10-2003, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by B2r3y
allright well i got the tranny mount in witch im happy about and no i thought the shifting was harder but its all the same so i didnt mess anything up thankfully.

about the ford racing clutch HD, im prolly intrested in this clutch. What kind of pressure will it hold up to and will i get a good p.p. with it? Im also thinking about looking at the dual friction center force clutch. Has anyone tested this clutch and how does it hold up to the Ford racing HD?

Also about clutches, jthompson--

what is this and how much does it cost? also where can i pick it up at along with the ford racing HD clutch and pp?
thanks
bryan

Your clutch is not adjustable right now. An aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster will allow you to adjust the clutch to your preference, vs that stock crap. Don't put in an after market clutch and use the same non adjustable setup.

I got mine from grcperformance.com,

however, I believe it is just a steeda setup that they use. Get the double or triple hook quadrant, the firewall adjuster, and keep your stock non adjustable cable. With the firewall adjuster, you don't need an aftermarket cable, you can keep the stock one.

Keep in mind that the ford racing clutch is pretty damn stiff. It will make it all but impossible for everyone but yourself to drive. every time I take it in for an oil change, the mechanics wind up stalling it every time.

B2r3y · 02-11-2003, 12:09 AM

OK guys thanks for all teh info in choosing a new clutch. I pick ed up a Ford Racing King Cobra CLutch setup with clutch pp and throw out bearing at Tommy Vaughns Ford Racing in Houston for $190. But here comes a new problem.

Clutch Installation -
never done one b4 but have done a tranny swap. My step dad has done a clutch instal before and says its a peice of cake and so ill get him to help me. I didnt buy the quadrant for now or anything else becuz im short on money, I just need this clutch now becuz mine is burning and slipping real bad.
But can anyone that has done a clutch instal on their Fox Body Give me a brief walk through so that i dont **** things up when i go for this install? Any help would be great and would love it if someone could do a nice walk through! I appreciate everyoens time and advice!
Also need to know about tranny fluid and if i need to use any clutch fliud and what kinda and any details.

Thanks
Bryan

Jthompson · 02-12-2003, 04:39 PM

use automatic trans fluid (yes you heard that right)

if you have pulled the trans b4, then you are set. Yank the center column tray surrounding the shifter, remove the shifter, pull the h-pipe off, yank the driveshaft , the speedo cable, the o2 sensors, and any other wires connected to the trans. support the trans and yank the x member, pull the 4 bolts connecting the trans to the bell housing, the bell housing and trans will come apart as two pieces, after the 4 bolts come out, yank the trans from the bell

yank the little bolt off connecting the housing that houses the clutch cable, disc the clutch cable. yank all the bell housing bolts, and pull the bell.

you will see the clutch there, undue the bolts that hold the pressure plate on, and the pressure plate and clutch fall off, watch it, real ******* heavy, will knock you unconsciuos if you are on your back and it falls on your head, maybe even kill you. while you are there, DO NOT SLACK ON RESURFACING THE FLYWHEEL. the flywheel comes off with just a few bolts, pull those off and get flywheel surfaced, (kinda like a brake rotor), i skipped this the first time, and it never grabbed right, and wore prematurely. ALso while you are down there, replace the rear main seal in the crank. They might sell the tool to pull it out, but we were able to simply pry it out CAREFULLY using common tools, only takes you five seconds and five bucks to save you months of headache.

take you clutch allignment tool that came with the clutch, if it didn't, goto autozone and ask for one. after you get your rear main seal back on, and your flywheel properly torqued on, put your disc on, paying SPECIAL attn which side goes toward the engine, mate it up to the flywheel, and put the pressure plate on at the same time, and use the alignment tool in the center of the pressure plate, this will go through the p-plate and clutch disc, and in the crank, and line everything up so you can rebolt the p-plate back on.

everything from there is simple reversal.

Remember, if you clutch feels out of adjustment, the stock way to adjust a mustang clutch is to pull up on the clutch pedal, then depress it, this will "self adjust it" if it still feels funky, stop everything and get an adjustable setup.

Good luck, email v8only@yahoo.com if you have any more questions.

02-07-2003, 05:13 PM	#1
B2r3y Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Htown tx Posts: 70	New Clutch etc..... allright guys i have had my 88 5.0 GT for about a week and a 1/2 now and i love it. It had a broken tranny mount when i got it and i just havent got around to putting it in or anything, the thing is will this effect anything like when im shifting becuz i was shifting today playing with a vette and i double clutched first gear and it just jumped outta 1st and it sound like the hole tranny hit the ground and then i did it again and same thing but not anytime after that but now it is a bit rougher to put it in first and everything so i dunno what could be the probelm. can anyone tell me whats wrong or any ideas? also im going to be ordering a new clutch and pressure plate with a new bearing so i was wondering if anyone has done anyh clutch and pressure plate swaps and if so what would be the best clutch and p.p to use for everyday driver and racing and also im going to be upgrading the mods on it soon... Please helpp!!!!!!!!!! thanks bryan

02-07-2003, 05:53 PM	#2
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	I use the king cobra, fairlly cheap, and seems to hold good even on e.t. streets, i recomend it. When i got my car years ago it had a fastener missing from the trans mount, i went ahead and replaced it with an energy suspension polyurethane, then i found another bolt, it works pretty good, you might replace that all together, do you have an after market shifter? if so, look at the adjustable stops, if not, i suggest you get a better shifter. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

02-07-2003, 07:35 PM	#4
Jthompson Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Corona, Ca. Posts: 80	First of all, I hate to jump on your case, but shifting like that when you know you have a bad mount is just plain dumb, especially since you did it again after you did it the first time. If it is harder to shift now, you may have some issues. A few tips. My tranny was making some clunking sounds, and the shifter actually jumped to the left on acceleration, I thought trans mount too, I bought the energy suspensions poly eur. trans mount and jacked up the front of my car. I actually found that the bolts that secured the transmission to the bellhousing were loose !!!! You may want to make sure all the bolts underneath are good and secure. The trans mount goes in like a piece of cake. I didn't have to remove the exhaust or anything. You may need a jack to support the trans to position it in place. I did have to remove one side of the crossmember, but in hindsight now, I might not have even had to do that. The trans mount is a very easy 1 hour or less ( 20 mins easy if you are good) project. I would do that IMMEDIATELY!!! I have a ford racing clutch in my stang. It is the second one I have. It is the heavy duty one, not the king cobra. WHile those two are identical, the heavy duty costs less, has the same gripping power, but takes the might of a herd of elephants to press down. Kinda nice for an excuse for others not to drive your car. Anyway, can't go wrong with the ford racing clutch, king cobra, or the spec, which seems to be very popular also, these are easily the two most popular. Don't throw in a new clutch without going to an aluminum double or triple hook quadrant with firewall adjuster, steeda makes a nice kit for that. __________________ Jeremy 1986 Mustang GT Convertible 1972 2 door 302 Maverick 1994 POS head gasket clubbed broke down T-bird with $6000 left to pay off

02-08-2003, 12:03 AM	#5
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	You can get a kk clutch for about 199$ through summitt, or jegs, local performance shops around here sell them for around 210, the regular hd motorsport is too hard for me, at least in traffic, but has the same disc as the kk, and is about 169$ The cutting and weld stock shifter is alright i guess, but it wont have the postive shift stop's like an aftermarket one, then you might overshift and damage your t-5, thats what destroyed my last t-5, missing 3rd, now with my ripper shifter, i dont miss 3rd to begin with. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

02-08-2003, 01:16 AM	#6
429mustang Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: westerville, OH USA Posts: 618	What do you mean double clutching???? I thought double clutching was for transmissions without or with with bad synchros. Do you mean power shifting (not letting off the gas between shifts)??? __________________ 1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns.

02-07-2003, 06:55 PM	#3
B2r3y Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Htown tx Posts: 70	No i dont have an aftermarket shifter but i do have a stock shifter ( 2nd one) that im going to cut out the center extension on it and weld it back together to create a short throw shifter. A friend has one that works pretty good. Also how serious is a broken tranny mount? I have been riding around with it for a while and when i shift it pops and everything but thats cuz its broke. How soon should i have this replaced and can it cause any damage? Where can i pick up a king cobra set up and for about how much? I need one soon. Bryan

02-08-2003, 08:39 PM	#8
429mustang Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: westerville, OH USA Posts: 618	I got the Ford racking HD cluth/pp. It grabs pretty hard, it hasn't slipped yet burning out/high rpm shifts. I got it at jegs for around $160-170, comes w/clutch,pressure plate,throwout bearing. Unless your running 12's or quicker, or race all the time at the track w/slicks, it should hold up good. When I got my car it already had the HD clutch in it for a few years, I drove it for another 2 years burning out all the time and racing it a bunch before it finally wore out. I'd probably get your flywheel resurfaced, I spent around $30 at carquest and they did it in a few hours while I got everything else apart. __________________ 1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns.

02-10-2003, 01:36 PM	#11
mike72678 MW Link Sponsor Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: rochester , ny Posts: 79	you might also want to invest in an adjustable clutch quadrant and cable kit so you can adjust your catch point and be sure that your clutch is under full pressure so it won't slip . you can get them at www.neweraperformanceparts.com for $54 which is a great price .

02-11-2003, 12:09 AM	#13
B2r3y Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Htown tx Posts: 70	OK guys thanks for all teh info in choosing a new clutch. I pick ed up a Ford Racing King Cobra CLutch setup with clutch pp and throw out bearing at Tommy Vaughns Ford Racing in Houston for $190. But here comes a new problem. Clutch Installation - never done one b4 but have done a tranny swap. My step dad has done a clutch instal before and says its a peice of cake and so ill get him to help me. I didnt buy the quadrant for now or anything else becuz im short on money, I just need this clutch now becuz mine is burning and slipping real bad. But can anyone that has done a clutch instal on their Fox Body Give me a brief walk through so that i dont **** things up when i go for this install? Any help would be great and would love it if someone could do a nice walk through! I appreciate everyoens time and advice! Also need to know about tranny fluid and if i need to use any clutch fliud and what kinda and any details. Thanks Bryan

02-12-2003, 04:39 PM	#14
Jthompson Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Corona, Ca. Posts: 80	use automatic trans fluid (yes you heard that right) if you have pulled the trans b4, then you are set. Yank the center column tray surrounding the shifter, remove the shifter, pull the h-pipe off, yank the driveshaft , the speedo cable, the o2 sensors, and any other wires connected to the trans. support the trans and yank the x member, pull the 4 bolts connecting the trans to the bell housing, the bell housing and trans will come apart as two pieces, after the 4 bolts come out, yank the trans from the bell yank the little bolt off connecting the housing that houses the clutch cable, disc the clutch cable. yank all the bell housing bolts, and pull the bell. you will see the clutch there, undue the bolts that hold the pressure plate on, and the pressure plate and clutch fall off, watch it, real ******* heavy, will knock you unconsciuos if you are on your back and it falls on your head, maybe even kill you. while you are there, DO NOT SLACK ON RESURFACING THE FLYWHEEL. the flywheel comes off with just a few bolts, pull those off and get flywheel surfaced, (kinda like a brake rotor), i skipped this the first time, and it never grabbed right, and wore prematurely. ALso while you are down there, replace the rear main seal in the crank. They might sell the tool to pull it out, but we were able to simply pry it out CAREFULLY using common tools, only takes you five seconds and five bucks to save you months of headache. take you clutch allignment tool that came with the clutch, if it didn't, goto autozone and ask for one. after you get your rear main seal back on, and your flywheel properly torqued on, put your disc on, paying SPECIAL attn which side goes toward the engine, mate it up to the flywheel, and put the pressure plate on at the same time, and use the alignment tool in the center of the pressure plate, this will go through the p-plate and clutch disc, and in the crank, and line everything up so you can rebolt the p-plate back on. everything from there is simple reversal. Remember, if you clutch feels out of adjustment, the stock way to adjust a mustang clutch is to pull up on the clutch pedal, then depress it, this will "self adjust it" if it still feels funky, stop everything and get an adjustable setup. Good luck, email v8only@yahoo.com if you have any more questions. __________________ Jeremy 1986 Mustang GT Convertible 1972 2 door 302 Maverick 1994 POS head gasket clubbed broke down T-bird with $6000 left to pay off

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