Brake job, now a noise.

AntwaanRandleEL · 02-10-2003, 06:45 PM

Ok I put new pads and rotors in today on my 90' LX 5.0 and now I hear a noise coming from the right front area. Its like a grinding noise but its not constant, its like a repeating sound with at regular intervals depending on how fast im going. It also seems to get louder when the wheel is turned to the right. I took everything apart and checked it before reassembling everything. Still makes the noise. I'll have it back on the hoist tomorrow to look at it but can anyone give me any suggestions???

gtsr515 · 02-10-2003, 08:44 PM

Did you replace wheel bearings too, is that it maybe?, how about the low pad indicater bent and scratching the rotor when you load the car on a right hand turn? it happens even though the pads are new, try to "Bed" the pads a little , make a few hard high speed stops, not enough to warp the rotors, but get some heat in 'em and see what happens.......

Good luck, Camaro's suck!

Jay

Fox Body · 02-10-2003, 10:33 PM

Maybe you're just wearing the new pads and your just hearing normal initial wear.

Did you regrease the rotor bearings correctly with new grease?

AntwaanRandleEL · 02-10-2003, 10:43 PM

Yeah I'm hoping the brakes just need to be broken in. Ive only driven the car a few miles. I did regrease the bearings with new grease and I installed new wheels seals. I'll give the brakes a moderate workout tomorrow on the way to school and then take a look at things when I get it up on the hoist. Thanks guys.

crazyi · 02-11-2003, 11:23 AM

i used to work in a brake shop and we would get cars in that would make noises after somebody did a home brake job. if you didn't spend some money on rotors (over 100 bucks) then the rotor might have what they call a record player effect on it. it happens when the surface is cut at the manufacturer (spelling). what happens is the pad acts like a neddle on a record and it walks up the rotor and the when it gets to the top it can't go any more so the caliper flexes and the pad slaps back down on the rotor and then works it's way up again making the noise again. i would recomend taking the rotors back if you can and getting some good quality ones. if you can't afford them then take the rotor off and take it some where to have it turned. at the brake shop i worked at we turned all low quality rotors before we put them on so that problem didn't happen when the customer left. hope this helps.

AntwaanRandleEL · 02-11-2003, 08:13 PM

Hmm... well I spent 99 bucks a piece for them from Napa. The guy also had a $50 set. He said the ones I bought are up to Fords OEM specs. What do you think?

tommyinla · 02-12-2003, 01:55 AM

where i used to work, we would wash new rotors in the parts cleaner and then rinse them off really good. we never turned new rotors though...

you could also try cleaning them with brake cleaner or carb cleaner (the part the pad rides against of course...)

crazyi · 02-12-2003, 10:28 AM

i would take them in and have them turned. regardless of who makes them they can still get a record effect when they are surfaced.

84LX89GT · 02-12-2003, 10:01 PM

The way to brake up the record finish is to take 130 grit sand paper (says so in ford manual) and while it's on the lathe, with a sanding block, make a uniform finish accross the rotor either by creating a crosshatch pattern to bed the pads or just holding and breaking up the record finish. Alot of good rotors come with a crosshatch pattern, so you don't have to refinish them. All rotors need to be cleaned before installation because metal/abrasive particles can become lodged in the pad and make noise and reduce it's stopping power. You also have to make sure not to get grease on the rotor because that will contaminate the pads and create a pulsation/noise when braking from them grabbing and releasing.
another thing that causes pad vibration (squeel) is by forgetting to lubricate the caliper glides (where the caliper pins go through). If a glide hangs up it will cause irregular pad wear and also the pad may not fully press against the rotor and will vibrate and create a noise.
Sometimes a noise will go away after you put some miles on them, but you may not be so lucky.
Good luck,

02-10-2003, 06:45 PM	#1
AntwaanRandleEL Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Naperville, IL, USA Posts: 76	Brake job, now a noise. Ok I put new pads and rotors in today on my 90' LX 5.0 and now I hear a noise coming from the right front area. Its like a grinding noise but its not constant, its like a repeating sound with at regular intervals depending on how fast im going. It also seems to get louder when the wheel is turned to the right. I took everything apart and checked it before reassembling everything. Still makes the noise. I'll have it back on the hoist tomorrow to look at it but can anyone give me any suggestions??? __________________ There will always be someone faster then you.

02-10-2003, 08:44 PM	#2
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Brakes Did you replace wheel bearings too, is that it maybe?, how about the low pad indicater bent and scratching the rotor when you load the car on a right hand turn? it happens even though the pads are new, try to "Bed" the pads a little , make a few hard high speed stops, not enough to warp the rotors, but get some heat in 'em and see what happens....... Good luck, Camaro's suck! Jay __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

02-10-2003, 10:33 PM	#3
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	Maybe you're just wearing the new pads and your just hearing normal initial wear. Did you regrease the rotor bearings correctly with new grease? __________________ 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

02-10-2003, 10:43 PM	#4
AntwaanRandleEL Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Naperville, IL, USA Posts: 76	Yeah I'm hoping the brakes just need to be broken in. Ive only driven the car a few miles. I did regrease the bearings with new grease and I installed new wheels seals. I'll give the brakes a moderate workout tomorrow on the way to school and then take a look at things when I get it up on the hoist. Thanks guys. __________________ There will always be someone faster then you.

02-11-2003, 08:13 PM	#6
AntwaanRandleEL Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Naperville, IL, USA Posts: 76	Hmm... well I spent 99 bucks a piece for them from Napa. The guy also had a $50 set. He said the ones I bought are up to Fords OEM specs. What do you think? __________________ There will always be someone faster then you.

02-11-2003, 11:23 AM	#5
crazyi Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: georgia Posts: 11	i used to work in a brake shop and we would get cars in that would make noises after somebody did a home brake job. if you didn't spend some money on rotors (over 100 bucks) then the rotor might have what they call a record player effect on it. it happens when the surface is cut at the manufacturer (spelling). what happens is the pad acts like a neddle on a record and it walks up the rotor and the when it gets to the top it can't go any more so the caliper flexes and the pad slaps back down on the rotor and then works it's way up again making the noise again. i would recomend taking the rotors back if you can and getting some good quality ones. if you can't afford them then take the rotor off and take it some where to have it turned. at the brake shop i worked at we turned all low quality rotors before we put them on so that problem didn't happen when the customer left. hope this helps.

02-12-2003, 01:55 AM	#7
tommyinla Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Ocala, Florida Posts: 219	where i used to work, we would wash new rotors in the parts cleaner and then rinse them off really good. we never turned new rotors though... you could also try cleaning them with brake cleaner or carb cleaner (the part the pad rides against of course...) __________________ 85GT Convertible soon to be sold... 67 Mustang 289. Holley Red electric fuel pump, 4 speed toploader, dual exhaust, torq thrust IIs (real soon!)

02-12-2003, 10:28 AM	#8
crazyi Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: georgia Posts: 11	i would take them in and have them turned. regardless of who makes them they can still get a record effect when they are surfaced.

02-12-2003, 10:01 PM	#9
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	The way to brake up the record finish is to take 130 grit sand paper (says so in ford manual) and while it's on the lathe, with a sanding block, make a uniform finish accross the rotor either by creating a crosshatch pattern to bed the pads or just holding and breaking up the record finish. Alot of good rotors come with a crosshatch pattern, so you don't have to refinish them. All rotors need to be cleaned before installation because metal/abrasive particles can become lodged in the pad and make noise and reduce it's stopping power. You also have to make sure not to get grease on the rotor because that will contaminate the pads and create a pulsation/noise when braking from them grabbing and releasing. another thing that causes pad vibration (squeel) is by forgetting to lubricate the caliper glides (where the caliper pins go through). If a glide hangs up it will cause irregular pad wear and also the pad may not fully press against the rotor and will vibrate and create a noise. Sometimes a noise will go away after you put some miles on them, but you may not be so lucky. Good luck, __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)

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