E-303 idles mean as hell I thought it was a mild cam.

[Dark_5.0]

I thought my idle would be close to stock with the e-303 cam but it is pretty damn lumpy. Everything is set and tuned right on the car it is just alot more aggressive sounding than I thought it would be.

BTW: I do not reccommend this cam. It is a real PITA to get your car to idle without surging below 1000 rpms.

I had to drill a 3/16 inch hole in my throttle body flapper to get it to idle right. Anyone else have to do this?

I hope this cam performs well with my combo cause it sure was a BIOTCH to get everything right.

Later,

[302 LX Eric]

Are you going to have it dyno tuned? If so, a nice custom autologic chip can solve your idle woes.

E

[red82gt]

Yeah, the 110* LSA gave for a pretty nice chop. I always got comments on my cam lope . I expected it to have a milder idle too.
I like my Comp XE 270HR a lot better, much more power in the middle and the idle has a much smaller lope.

[Hozer 88GTConv]

I know what you are talking about.
I opted for the "softer" LSA of the B-cam, but wanted the lift of the E, so I used 1.7 rr's with the B to get the E's lift.
It made tuning a lot easier. I love the way they sound though, mine idles at 750-800 and I always get some comments on it.

[94snake]

yea i have an E-cam in my car and it sounds mean as hell....it lopes like a mad man.....i never had idle problems or anything like that ...just popped it in and ran great....much much more midrange power with 1.7 rr's.....later

[Dark_5.0]

I thought about going with 1.7 RR but with 2.02 1.60 valves and 54cc chambers I dont think I would have enough clearance.

[Falcons Talon]

I was told that the b was much more aggressive than the e. WHICH IS IT???



Oh,
Dark 5.0, I received the spacer yesterday. It's in great condition!

Unfortunately I can't use it yet. Overhead hood clearance has become an issue, but when I get a Cobra R SVO, it's going right on!

Thanks again

[Hethj7]

I run the B-cam with 1.7 rr's. It sounds nice, but like others I have trouble getting the idle just right. I kind of got sick of messing with it, so I have the idle turned up just above 1000 rpm so it doesn't surge. Sometimes the computer will kick it down to 800 or so. It sounds pretty mean then.

[Simi Stang]

Originally posted by Dark_5.0
I thought my idle would be close to stock with the e-303 cam but it is pretty damn lumpy.

You thought an E-303 cam would be similar in sound to the stocker??!! :eek: Yeah, both the E & the B cams sound pretty lopey. I run the B w/ 1.72 roller rockers and love the way it sounds. I have my idle right around 1000rpms...maybe a little lower. It idles pretty smooth. Has anyone else had to drill a small hole in their butterfly of the throttle body?

[Dark_5.0]

I wasnt very happy about having to drill my throttle body but there was no other way.

I have heard e303 cams in stock engines and they didnt sound nearly as mean.

I think my free flowing engine and exhaust set-up have alot to do with how mean it sounds.

I like it now that I have it tuned right. But I damn sure cant get away with telling someone that its pretty much stock anymore:D

[SaleenGTS]

What crackhead told you it was mild? The lift is mild, but the LSA and duration show that it has a lope...I had it, hated it.

It IS a "mild" cam as far as performance goes. I commonly see B cammed cars performing better than E cammed cars on the street. Different power curve.

I never had any problems with mine though unless I ran A/C, but I fixed that because there were some busted vaccum lines coincidentally.

Did you disconnect the Idle Air Control valve to re-adjust your idle? Did you disconnect your computer so it could relearn everything? A cam is a big mod because it changes your a/f mixture.

The lope is cool, you will like it after a while....for me it actually wasn't lopey enough!

[Dark_5.0]

I was looking for a better than stock streetable cam and came across this e303 cam dirt cheap so I went ahead and threw it in there.

As long as I can run 12's and drive it on the street now and then I will be happy with it.

Yeah man of course I unplugged the idle sensor and reset the ecu.;)

I guess the dyno will tell the story.

[Coupe50h]

It is a pretty mild cam, if you guys remember i had a post about how i couldnt get my car to idle without surging/stalling?
That turned out to be the o2 sensors, also i had the idle set too low, now i have it idle about 900, sometimes it will drop down, and it sounds killer, i drive my car everyday, and havent had any idle problems since my old post.
Today my friend rolled up in his 93 gt with the new f-cam installed, that sucker was pretty lopey, made my car sound mild, but i think i can still whoop him:D

Dark5.0, it seems people that go to a bigger 2.02 valve aluminum head, and bigger cam, (like my friends 93) the exhaust note completley changes, that buddy of mine with the f-cam is about to get some turbo mufflers it's so damn loud:)
later......

[Dark_5.0]

I would have ran the F-cam but I dont think I have the clearance.

I may try putting 1.7 RR on the exhaust valves.

[Southern MD LSC]

Don't do it! Install an adjustable idle spacer instead. I put one on my lincoln last fall and have had no more problems setting the idle speed. There's one on e-bay for $19.00.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461063622&category=33553

Have a geat day!
Russ

[sedanman]

I loved my E cam it sounded good made good power and it was great for a daily driver. I then moved up to a trickflow stage 1 and it was very similar to the E cam as far as driveability and lope but it has a higher power band. I know have a B41 waiting to go in it should sound down right nasty.

[Skyman]

Yeah the E-cam has a louder idle than the B or F cam. I think it sounds damn good. I put 1.72's on mine and it sounds real mean now. My car made great power from 2500 on up with the edelbrock intake and 1.6's on the E-cam. I switched to a systemax II intake and 1.7's and I lost a TON of lowend, probably a combo of both. I gained power maybe 300rpms higher than before. My car was dying off around 5600, now its more like 5900-6000. And now the power doesnt come on till about 3500, not nearly as fun. My buddy car has a TFS #1 and it just pulls and pulls to redline, but a little less lowend than my first combo on the E-Cam.

And yes its a ***** to get it to idle. My car idles around 1100 rpm now.

[429mustang]

Whats the lift/duration on the TFS 1 cam? Would it go good with the Track heat intake and stock heads for now, and maybe eventually some twisted wedge/Track Heat or AFR 185's?

[sedanman]

The trick flow stage 1 (off the top of my head) is 498 510 and 220 224

If you run the trackheat on stock heads run a 3/8 spacer to get some low end back (beause it is gonna be a mismatch with stock heads).

[SaleenGTS]

The F is a lopeier idle then the E....512 lift vs. .498 and 114 lobe vs. 112, and 288 duration vs. 284. I had a F and a E...the F pulls harder and lopes more.

Sky, I bet yours is louder because of the rockers...

[Dog5ohfun]

I had an E cam in mine and I loved it with the car stock. I got a new cam that would provide higher RPM for my 306. An easy way to get a better idle for the E, is too get the Air idle bypass plate to adjust your idle. Also make sure that your TPS is set right with your throttle adjustment screw. .099 at idle and no higher than 4.50 volts at full throttle. Mine always idled well. It even sounded good in my current 306 but I needed more top end to take advantage of my stock heads that I got from Powerheads. Just thought I would add my opinion and thoughts.

[Skyman]

Hmm Ive listened to an F-cammed car w/ flows like mine and mine was louder.

Skyler

[soon2Bturbo]

quote:BTW: I do not reccommend this cam. It is a real PITA to get your car to idle without surging below 1000 rpms.

I had to drill a 3/16 inch hole in my throttle body flapper to get it to idle right. Anyone else have to do this?

I hope this cam performs well with my combo cause it sure was a BIOTCH to get everything right.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey! It's really great that so many people are replying to this problem. Only one problem, though. Not one person has mentioned the obvious. The basic. Do you all need "cam swapping 101" for EFI cars. The EEC-IV must adjust itself to the new cam. It must compensate for the different vacuum, and more air that is now entering the cylinder. I've gone through 4 diff cams and each one took about 1 week or 70-100 starts before the ECU learned and made the proper adjustments. I'm not insulting anyone. I just think many of you overlooked the obvious.

[Dark_5.0]

I dont agree with you at all. My car idles perfectly at 750 rpms now.

We "all" understand perfectly well that the ecu has to learn with new mods but the ecu is not going to compenstae for 500 rpm surges. I gave it plenty of time. From Friday to Monday to be exact and it was still surging like a big dawg.

I have since repaired the hole I drilled in the throttle body and installed an idle adjuster. Its all good now.

[Skyman]

Your car aint nothing like mine. 4 years, still idle problems. Tried it all. Set at 1200 rpm now, and still surges a bit.

[429mustang]

My idle's been a little weird the last few since I advanced my timing from around 10* up to 14*advanced, the motor's completely stock and I performed the right computer reset procedure. ????? I still have to check the TPS, if it was off would that contribute to an occasional surging/high idle?

[420nitro]

Originally posted by 429mustang
My idle's been a little weird the last few since I advanced my timing from around 10* up to 14*advanced, the motor's completely stock and I performed the right computer reset procedure. ????? I still have to check the TPS, if it was off would that contribute to an occasional surging/high idle?
Yes it can. Especially if it over 1 volt at idle.

As goes for soon to be turbo, I would have to agree. (maybe I was lucky) but didn't have any idle problems. :confused: I also knew some tricks that worked too.
I have had several different Motorsport cams, and liked the E-cam the best. I personnaly thought the B-cam was the biggest joke,..no offense to the people running that cam. (that was also before the F-cam and Z-cam came out.) After the E-cam I always bought custom ground cams from Bennet or Panhandle Performance, with awsome luck. (Again no idle or surging problems).
Dark 5.0
As goes for the E-cam being mild,.. I don't really think it is for what you got. It all depends what you are comparing it with too. I now have a cam well over 250@ .050 duration! I now think my cam is mild at the stage I am at.
But I know the rump you are talking about and it brings back great memories. I think the E-cam gives off the best sound for a street car with out the to racey sound!;)
I don't think Dark 5.0 will have any problems running what you want with the combo you have. So good luck.
my 2 cents

[Dark_5.0]

Originally posted by 420nitro
Yes it can. Especially if it over 1 volt at idle.

As goes for soon to be turbo, I would have to agree. (maybe I was lucky) but didn't have any idle problems. :confused: I also knew some tricks that worked too.
I have had several different Motorsport cams, and liked the E-cam the best. I personnaly thought the B-cam was the biggest joke,..no offense to the people running that cam. (that was also before the F-cam and Z-cam came out.) After the E-cam I always bought custom ground cams from Bennet or Panhandle Performance, with awsome luck. (Again no idle or surging problems).
Dark 5.0
As goes for the E-cam being mild,.. I don't really think it is for what you got. It all depends what you are comparing it with too. I now have a cam well over 250@ .050 duration! I now think my cam is mild at the stage I am at.
But I know the rump you are talking about and it brings back great memories. I think the E-cam gives off the best sound for a street car with out the to racey sound!;)
I don't think Dark 5.0 will have any problems running what you want with the combo you have. So good luck.
my 2 cents

Thank you,

It looks like march 13th will be my first track outting this year. Hoping for 12's......mid 12's.:D

[SaleenGTS]

I am with Sky...I had an E303 on my old motor(306). Before the blower it surged terrible and died when hitting corners with the A/C on...never cleared up. I tried everything, new vacuum, new ECU, different MAF and TB. They are not a good cam. MILD power at best. Dyno tests show the B making more power with the same mods.

Bigger ain't always better!

[420nitro]

Originally posted by SaleenGTS
I am with Sky...I had an E303 on my old motor(306). Before the blower it surged terrible and died when hitting corners with the A/C on...never cleared up. I tried everything, new vacuum, new ECU, different MAF and TB. They are not a good cam. MILD power at best. Dyno tests show the B making more power with the same mods.

Bigger ain't always better!
Ok, cool
Now I just want to understand something...did you use an E-cam with a supercharger??
Yes a b-cam will make more power with a power adder.
If with spray using more then 125 shot or a blower with 6 or more pounds or boost.
In a N/A combo an E-cam will make more power if tuned right with the right application, If not then it sounds like user error more then anything.
Right application is key!!!Would compose of a 5-speed, 3.73 gears or 4.10's, Good set of heads and intake., Comp. in the 9-9.5 range.
Cam installed correctley.
As goes for tune, the tps set to .950-.999, timing in the 16-19 btc. I have even seen 21! (I believe some factory balancers are off, but different subject). Right plugs for the heads and so on.

A lot of these thing I am sure you guys and girls already know.
And may have tried all of these things but still, just because you could not get it to work doesn't mean that it is a piece of shyte. All it means is that you could not tune the car! Is there easier combos to tune,...yes but still doesn't mean the other stuff is junk while a whole bunch of othere people are getting there cars to rock with the same parts as you.
later

[Skyman]

Sorry man but I worked on it for years. I had MANY people that are fricken experts with mustangs try to tune it. The last guy did the best, and it idles steady around 1200 now with an occasional surge. Liveabile definatly but perfect no way. I like the powerband of the b-cam a lot more.

Skyler

[420nitro]

Originally posted by Skyman
Sorry man but I worked on it for years. I had MANY people that are fricken experts with mustangs try to tune it. The last guy did the best, and it idles steady around 1200 now with an occasional surge. Liveabile definatly but perfect no way. I like the powerband of the b-cam a lot more.

Skyler
Hey man, just out of curiosity if your still willing to give it a shot...
At your next fill up, fill it with 93 octane or more (I don't know what you have for pump gas) and fill it with that. After about a quarter tank gas, adjust your timing to 16-19 btc. (And don't forget to disconnect the spout connector;) ) Reset computer and the IAC because I want you to now, lower your idle. Set it to about 800-900 on a timing light, not your factory tach. Recheck your TPS and give it a full week. See if it helps. Can be more things but its not in front of me. (Kind of hard over the computer).
I do not claim to be an expert, and I claim to know nothing;) people tend to leave me along too. Know you say that the timing is way to much, don't stress. If it starts to ping with a moderate load then back it off 2 degrees. (But it shouldn't because I was able to run that much in an iron head combo.)
***
I assume you are not running your emission equiptment including your cats!! ****
This may all seem redundent but worth a shot.
Good luck and let me know.
Let me if you want.

[420nitro]

Oh yea, don't get discourage if it dies out a couple of times at first. Give it 5 minutes first.

[Dark_5.0]

If I remember correctly I think skymans car put 330 to the wheels so the E cam is making good power even if it isnt ideal.

Strangely enough my car ran smoother with the speed density ecu:confused:

[Hozer 88GTConv]

I have the B with 1.7's (so I get the lift of an E, but the advertised duration of the B) TW heads (not to mention supercharged) and it idles as of three hours ago, via a Snap-on 1222 Engine Diagnostic Computer between 790 and 820 RPM.
I was checking my firing(electronic) efficiency via the O-scope readout and RPM variation per cylinder.
I do have the IAB spacer with a new IAB bought about a year ago. I also have a A3M with a JMS chip setup. I am nowhere near my hp potential on my combo even at 8 lbs due to my oil issue on number 5.
After correcting my oil issue, which I hope is a valve seal, I hope to net somewhere around 10 percent more on the dyno curve.
That's with a B-cam that idles rock steady.
Good Luck... (oh, I have 44 degrees of total advance via the Snap-on too...Trick Flow recommends 36 but oh well)

[Dark_5.0]

44 degrees total advance with a suprcharger:eek:

Joke right??????

[Hozer 88GTConv]

The Vortech has been off of the car for some time until I figure out my oil loss/number 5 cylinder issue.

Since the supercharger is supplied via the same oil sump, the last thing I want to do is oil-starve it. I have heard (not personally experienced it yet) that supercharger failures due to lack of lubrication are not pretty and that it is easier to have happen than you would think. I don't want to take a chance with a 3k unit.

So, I am naturally aspirated for now, but after I fix this thing, re-install the Vortech and re-tune it, I am hoping to see somewhere around 450 rwhp @ 8 psi. I am installing "umbrella" style valve seals Friday on the problem cylinder.

[pac663]

What's up fellas? I just installed an E in my 92 with stock heads and rockers. Stock from the lower intake to the cats except for the headers. Can I use the 1.7 Cobra rockers and still have clearence? When I first started the car after clearing the KAM, it died a few times. I gave it a little gas until it stayed started and it doesn't surge. It's only been 2 hours though:D

[Coupe50h]

Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv
I have the B with 1.7's (so I get the lift of an E, but the advertised duration of the B) TW heads (not to mention supercharged) and it idles as of three hours ago, via a Snap-on 1222

Huh?
you should be getting the lift of an f.....using 1.7's

I get more lift than b or f using mt cobra 1.7's, just not the duration.......

[Hozer 88GTConv]

good catch...
b-cam 480-480 224-224 110 LC (1.6's)
with 1.7's becomes 510...damn that's close on TF heads and Flat tops...:eek:
I think the f is 512 though? Pretty close though....

[420nitro]

Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv
good catch...
b-cam 480-480 224-224 110 LC (1.6's)
with 1.7's becomes 510...damn that's close on TF heads and Flat tops...:eek:
I think the f is 512 though? Pretty close though....
Isn't the b-cam a 112 LC & the e-cam a 110LC?

[Hozer 88GTConv]

you made me look it up to be sure...
bcam
480-480 224-224d 107-117 lc
ecam
498-498 220-220d 110-110lc
fcam
512-512 226-226d 109-109lc
xcam
542-542 224-224d 107-117lc

I read for guys with flat tops and non-stock valve angles, you can go as high a 535 and 230 duration and be okay.
But any duration over 230 becomes hard to tune for streetability (read daily driver)
I would be interested in hearing from guys with moderate lift cams over 230 duration to get some tips on tuning.

[sedanman]

Where did you get the specs on the F cam? I heard it was a 112 LSA?

[Hozer 88GTConv]

http://www.mindspring.com/~steveflyer/engine.htm
and the racer walsh catalog to be sure.

[sedanman]

Thanks, for the link to the specs and that is a very nice website.

Thanks.

[fiveOguy20]

since u have nice heads an intake an ur gonna go with alph, cam i woulda went with X or Z far more performance than the rest especially with good flowin heads.. just my 2 cents

[Dark_5.0]

I dont have the clearance to run much of a a bigger cam. .530 is my limit

[68Falcon]

I run a Lunati Cam. It has .526in .530ex lift. and 221in 232ex at .050. 111 Lobe Separation. Its a really good cam.

[Dark_5.0]

I am surprised you can run that much lift with 49cc heads.

[68Falcon]

I check pistoin to valve and I promble could get a little more lift. The block is undecked. With those heads i have 10.5:1 compression.

[blue oval 50h]

lift has very little to do with piston to valve clearance. Its the duration.

The size of the chamber in the head also does not determine piston to valve clearance-(as long as head hasent been shaved)

I also agree you couldve went with a much better cam then a e-cam for your combo. 3 things in combo i would change. Cam, 70-75mm t-body, long tube headers

The alphabet camsare outdated, and if another combo made 330rwhp, definatly does not mean yours will.

[sedanman]

Originally posted by blue oval 50h

The alphabet camsare outdated, and if another combo made 330rwhp, definatly does not mean yours will.

True but there are a lot of guys going insane fast with them too. I hope to be one of them! Hoping for 130 traps with a F cam.

[blue oval 50h]

Hoping for 130 traps with a F cam.

imagine what a custom grind would do for you

[sedanman]

Originally posted by blue oval 50h
imagine what a custom grind would do for you

Probably crack the block :D

I have a B41 from anderson that I won't put in because of PV and the fact that the block would be history. I am hoping to have the new block before this one dies now.

[Dark_5.0]

Originally posted by blue oval 50h
lift has very little to do with piston to valve clearance. Its the duration.

The size of the chamber in the head also does not determine piston to valve clearance-(as long as head hasent been shaved)

I also agree you couldve went with a much better cam then a e-cam for your combo. 3 things in combo i would change. Cam, 70-75mm t-body, long tube headers

The alphabet camsare outdated, and if another combo made 330rwhp, definatly does not mean yours will.

He said he had 68 302 heads so I knew they had been shaved cause I know they didnt come with 49cc chambers.

I am not worried about the performance of the e cam. After I get all the bugs worked out I fully intend on spraying this motor till I kill it and then throwing a 351 in there.

[Skyman]

If lift has nothing to do with the PV clearance, why is it ever head manufactuer gives a max lift for their heads? Im not cam expert, but it doesnt matter how long a valve is open at a certain lift, just how high it is to hit the piston.

its funny how people all scold you for using the E-cam because you could have got something that made better power, but if you were using the stock cam that would make less power you would probalby not be scolded at all...

Skyler

[420nitro]

Lift is an important on P/V clearence. But not the only consideration. You can put in a smaller lift cam in then before and still hit the piston! L/C and duration also plays a large role if not more then just LIFT. Specially if you go from let say a 114 L/C to a cam with lets say...a 108-or even a 110.
As goes for the Manufacture saying max. lift does not indicate possiable P/V clearence problems. All that means is that the stock valve springs that come that head will have coil bind issues, not to mention other problems. You should always check P/V clearences when swaping cams too. But **** happens and I know.
As goes for custom grind cams...I always try to use them for varies reasons but sometimes off-the-shelf cams suit your needs just fine too.
MY .02

[Dark_5.0]

Well all I know is the clay I checked piston to valve clearance with tells me I have .530 of piston to valve clearance on the intake side.

I may change to a split pattern cam and run a bout .515 lift on the intake and .530 on the exhaust.

I have also thought about putting 1.7 rockers on the exhaust valves to get .529 lift on the exhaust valve.

Although not ideal with a little bit of spray I should be able to line up with the big boys.

[420nitro]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dark_5.0
[B]Well all I know is the clay I checked piston to valve clearance with tells me I have .530 of piston to valve clearance on the intake side.


Wow thats alot of clearence! Or did you mean thats how big of a cam you could of used?
As goes for your combo....just run it! The only thing is that, don't expect to pick up alot on spray. But should go pretty good on motor. All I was able to pick up was 7 tenthes on a 150 shot. Went faster w/ a b-cam but slower on motor. It was ok...the way I wanted it.

Oh yea, did you ever find out what was up with your vacuum????

[Dark_5.0]

Yeah the lower intake was leaking where it meets the heads. My GT-40 lower is ported and doesnt leave a whole lot of surface arear to get a good seal. I went to a Felpro 1262 gasket I will put them on tonight and get that taken care of.

I meant thats how big of a cam I could use.

[420nitro]

Cool.:)

[blue oval 50h]

, but it doesnt matter how long a valve is open at a certain lift,

wrong....

[Dark_5.0]

Originally posted by blue oval 50h
wrong....

I dont know much about cams. Most people dont. If you could give a more in depth explanantion of what duration and lift have to do with valve clearance I would appreciate it.

This is the one area I would likie to increase my knowledge.

Thanks,

[blue oval 50h]

The intake valve reaches its maximum lift at some defined point (usually about 106 degrees) after top dead center.

That was taken right from Comp Cams.....here's the rest....

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/TimingTutorial/

[sedanman]

Blue oval is right but his approach was a little rude.

Think of it like this if the piston is at the bottom of the stroke you can have like 3" of lift. How ever if the piston was all the way at the top you can have very little lift. So if the piston closes when the piston is on the way up it can be big lift. So most of the PV is with timming events rather then lift.

[blue oval 50h]

Sorry, still think you are short changing your heads.

[Dark_5.0]

What cam would you reccomend.

I had a Lunati that had .537 lift but it was too big so I went with the E303 cause I had one layiong around.

[420nitro]

Originally posted by Dark_5.0
What cam would you reccomend.

I had a Lunati that had .537 lift but it was too big so I went with the E303 cause I had one layiong around.
Are you really short changing yourself...YES...but, do you really want to change everything again???? You already said thet you were going to start building a new 351 base motor right??
As goes for the Luniti cam...need more info.
.050 duration as well as advertise. on both sides..
Lift...
LC...
and where you plan on installing at (timing wise...exp..4 degrees advance or what?)

I am a firm believer on custom grind cams...but the $$ you are going to spend on parts, gaskets and such to gain over what you have now and just installed...might be disappointing.

If running in the 11's on motor is what you want, then change it too a custom grind.

[Dark_5.0]

I will be happy with a mid 12 second car.

The only mods I have planned for the future are 1.7 roller rockers, a bigger throttle body and 4.30 gears witha 28 inch tire.

[420nitro]

Originally posted by Dark_5.0
I will be happy with a mid 12 second car.

The only mods I have planned for the future are 1.7 roller rockers, a bigger throttle body and 4.30 gears witha 28 inch tire.
DUDE, if you can drive...you already have it!!!!
I went faster 9 years ago with the bullshit parts back then!!!
E-cam
GT-40 (not the p)
GT-40 intake
70mm throttle body
C&L meter
Mac headers 1 5/8
2.5 exhust
Tremec and 4.10 gears.
Listening to the radio and A/C on thw way home from the track!
1.71 60 ft. (approx)
8.0 in the 1/8 @88.6 (mph--approx)
12.45 @108.5 (mph--approx give or take 2 tenthes of a MPH)
Most of the time the car went low 12.50's in 85+ degree heat at 180 feet above sea level.
Done this evrytime I went to the track (6 outings in the same year) Car became so predictable that it was starting to become boring!
:(
Good luck with yours
P.S heads were ported . Flowed in the low 200 at .500 lift and 160 on the exhust if I remember correctley.

[blue oval 50h]

I will be happy with a mid 12 second car

then i wouldnt change a thing......

Im always for optimizing a combo....so just ignore me:D

[sedanman]

Originally posted by 420nitro

E-cam
GT-40 (not the p)
GT-40 intake
70mm throttle body
C&L meter
Mac headers 1 5/8
2.5 exhust
Tremec and 4.10 gears.
Listening to the radio and A/C on thw way home from the track!
1.71 60 ft. (approx)
8.0 in the 1/8 @88.6 (mph--approx)
12.45 @108.5 (mph--approx give or take 2 tenthes of a MPH)
Most of the time the car went low 12.50's in 85+ degree heat at 180 feet above sea level.
Done this evrytime I went to the track (6 outings in the same year) Car became so predictable that it was starting to become boring!
:(
Good luck with yours
P.S heads were ported . Flowed in the low 200 at .500 lift and 160 on the exhust if I remember correctley.

I had almost the same combo and I loved it except my combo was:

BBK shortys vs mac
3.55 vs 4:10
Cobra vs GT40 intake
65mm tb vs 70mm tb
Heads were unported GT40's
I had stock stamped rockers and I had a 156K shortblock

I went 13.2@105.5 on small Dr's at around 900ft.

I loved that combo so much I plan to build another one with this combo for my daily driver.

Its always neat to see the different combos and how they ran/run.

[5Lvenom]

Everyone is a cam expert these days.... everyone wants a custom grind etc, but if you change your combo frequently, custom grind cams can sometimes be a waste of money and its back to the drawing board. I STILL run an e-cam (with 1.7s), and until I decide on what heads/intake for the future, it will remain that way. Besides, the car BARELY failed a pre-test California smog (didn't expect it to pass) with no cats, no EGR, and no make it pass tricks. It also goes good with my stock 95 cobra topend (intake TB, iron gt-40s), and 2 weeks ago put 423/438 to the tires @ 5000 rpms going lean, so until my fuel system gets beefed up to support 6500 rpm, my mild little alphabet old cam will remain.

[Dark_5.0]

Nice #'s 423HP at the wheels must be fun. The way I figured it is that the e cam was a good place to start.

[5Lvenom]

Thanks, I'm expecting to see 460ish in June when it gets retuned and run up to 6500. Its fun, but even my Nitto DRs don't quite cut it on the street anymore. The e-cam is a good starting point, and it can make good power matched up with the FMS heads and intakes.

-Rob

[sedanman]

Custom cams are way over rated. There are so many great off the shelf cams, unless you race hard core there is no reason to drop the coin on a custom cam. My car made about 500rwhp with a stage 1 trickflow (which is just larger then a E cam). I say about because a rocker came loose on the 450rwhp run. Turns out a lifter was bleeding down. I replaced it and went 124 traps with it on the same tune it dynoed at. I then added two degrees of timming and the car went a converted 127.5mph (only eight mile track but the car was .3 faster and 3mph up on the 1/8 times). I pulled the stage 1 out and slid in a F cam along with some other BS with hopes of 530rwhp and 130 traps.

5L venom what is your fuel system. I had stock everything except GSS340 pump and 42# injectors and had no problem.

[5Lvenom]

I used to run a T-rex inline (until it went bad after a year and blew both HGs), with a hp 255 intank stock lines/rails and 42s and no FMU (junk like t-rex IMO). the last run on the dyno showed the car going lean at 5000 rpm with just the 42s intank etc. I had a feeling the car wasn't going to have enough fuel before hand, but I figured what the hell, hp255 is supposed to support 550. Oh well, I'm in the process of a -8an feed, to twin inline hp255s with a pickup and rail adapters, I might buy rails though too, and a -6an return.

[sedanman]

Man that is almost exactly what I had. Assuming the HP 255 you talk about is the GSS340 (also knowen as a 255lph high pressure high volume). I to did not run a FMU they suck.

I am curently putting a fuel system in my car also it is a intake pickup with -10 to a A1000 pump -10 to the regulater then it goes into a Y-block where it goes to two -8's then into downs ford rails and then -6 back to the tank.

[5Lvenom]

Damn man that should do it for ya. I've heard mixed opinions on the Aeromotive pumps for daily driven cars. I'm basically doing the fuel system XTC sells for 1400 bucks, only I'm doing it for 450. :D

http://www.x2cmotorsports.com/cart/shopper.exe?preadd=true&key=277

[sedanman]

Yeah thats a bad *** kit for sure. I would not have picked the aeromotive pump because I too have heard mixed results but I got a great deal on it used from a freind of a freind. When it goes I will probably throw a weldon pump on there or twin walboro's.

[5Lvenom]

right on. We kinda hijacked this thread.

[sedanman]

Originally posted by 5Lvenom
right on. We kinda hijacked this thread.

You mean this is not the chat room? :)

And yeah we did hijack pretty bad.

[blue oval 50h]

good luck in whatever you choose

we are all here to share ideas and experiences