crazypete
06-18-2004, 11:45 AM
Hello all, I recently recieved a set of 1971 Cleveland 2V open chamber heads (D1AE CB) for $100. I was told that these are excellent street heads and flow quite appreciably. My question would be "is it worth it?" I know I could get a direct bolt it head for $1300 but part of me says it would be more fun to build my own, carefully hand porting and cleaning it myself and own a piece of history. Should I do it and how much streetability do I keep? I know the aussie heads are popular but according to fletch, they flow less than the domestic versions!
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/flowdata/cleveland.htm
The heads have been basically sitting for at least 10 years. The exhaust valves were stuck fast and were all crusty so I had to break them to get them out. Oddly, the intake ports/valves are beautiful and fresh but the exhaust side is crusty and rusty with scale (see attachment). Why was the exhaust side so bad compared to intake? I wirebrushed one and there's good metal underneath. I broke a valve guide taking out the valves, how screwed am I? Are these seats ready for unleaded or do I need to reseat them? I was thinking to get a set of larger 2.19 and 1.71 valves like in the aussie/4v. Will this kill my streetability, bottom end torque?
I know I need to drill out the water jacket on either side of the heads. A lot of places say to drill the block. I hate seeing the words drill and block in the same sentence. Would these things be actually able to cool with just the corners drilled?
I'm gonna torture the MAC shorty headers until they fit. I'll have to grind the header openings until they sort of look round/ovalish and do the same on the heads. I'll drill holes at 10 and 4 oclock to use the 351's bolt holes. The gaskets look similar enough. All the 351c headers are longtubes and I just got me a new bassani x-pipe that I refuse to part with! For intake....I was contemplating just ghetto stacking gaskets to make the connection for the initial runs to see how good it really is. Afterwards.... Edelbrock makes a performer clevor intake for $190.
I appreciate any thoughts! Have a great weekend everyone!
Crazy Pete
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/flowdata/cleveland.htm
The heads have been basically sitting for at least 10 years. The exhaust valves were stuck fast and were all crusty so I had to break them to get them out. Oddly, the intake ports/valves are beautiful and fresh but the exhaust side is crusty and rusty with scale (see attachment). Why was the exhaust side so bad compared to intake? I wirebrushed one and there's good metal underneath. I broke a valve guide taking out the valves, how screwed am I? Are these seats ready for unleaded or do I need to reseat them? I was thinking to get a set of larger 2.19 and 1.71 valves like in the aussie/4v. Will this kill my streetability, bottom end torque?
I know I need to drill out the water jacket on either side of the heads. A lot of places say to drill the block. I hate seeing the words drill and block in the same sentence. Would these things be actually able to cool with just the corners drilled?
I'm gonna torture the MAC shorty headers until they fit. I'll have to grind the header openings until they sort of look round/ovalish and do the same on the heads. I'll drill holes at 10 and 4 oclock to use the 351's bolt holes. The gaskets look similar enough. All the 351c headers are longtubes and I just got me a new bassani x-pipe that I refuse to part with! For intake....I was contemplating just ghetto stacking gaskets to make the connection for the initial runs to see how good it really is. Afterwards.... Edelbrock makes a performer clevor intake for $190.
I appreciate any thoughts! Have a great weekend everyone!
Crazy Pete