1968-289

dark horse · 11-07-1999, 08:39 PM

Anyone have experience with making horses with a 1968 289 c code? Is there alot of performance parts for it? How much $ will I need to get low to mid 13s? Anyone know of good power combos? Please don't tell me to get a 351, thats too easy, but if no one can help me, maybe I will anyway!

Thanks stangers!
-Jared

[This message has been edited by dark horse (edited 11-07-1999).]

thunderbolt · 11-07-1999, 09:13 PM

Get A 351. Ok, just kidding, but it did make me laugh, do it the hard way huh?
I would look seriously at the Edelbrock line. I think they have some very good well balanced engine kits.

dark horse · 11-07-1999, 09:21 PM

Yeah, it may feel good to know u got a 351 under the hood, but it feels better to beat someone and u know its only a 289!

Keep the replies coming! Anyone got experience with it?

John Z · 11-08-1999, 08:30 AM

You can do a lot with a 289. Check out Moneymaker http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Moneymaker.html
10.89 @ 122mph!
Not your everyday Mustang.
To get a c code into this class you'll need a blueprinted bottom up build up with a lot of $$$ parts.

Ron1 · 11-08-1999, 11:09 PM

Yep, there are loads of performance products available for the 289/302. Edelbrocks RPM's Performer (as mentioned before) probably one of the best, for a good combination street/strip combination. Problem is the weight of a 68 model. Probably in the 3200 lbs. range. Someone suggested looking at the Moneymaker. If you will look at the stall ( I think 6000) that baby will spin to the moon. I think Alex said he spins to 10K. To do that, that baby has to be built to the hilt. Also the gearing (I think a 6.52),a street driver it is'nt. But I don't think it was built for that. All business, and all go fast. For a good combo, nice flowing TFS heads, mild but agressive cam, good exhaust you should be able to run in the 13's. On my page I have a 65 coupe with a 302 that ran 12.80's, drove to the track and drove home.

If you are interested its www.worldaccessnet.com/~harldane/rons1.htm.

And forgive me, a little bragging here from a proud papa...my FB is easy to find...it's the Mustang of the week.

Ron

John Z · 11-09-1999, 09:01 AM

I made the post about Moneymaker to show how extreme a 289 can be built. Like I said it is not your every day Mustang. The only point I was attempting to make is that the 289 is a great motor and depending on how you build it you can compete with any brand Ch### products. However, due to it's relatively small displacement you will need to spin to high RPM to get the power!
For everyday driving there are a lot of nice packages that give a balanced motor and these should be complimented with a reasonable rear end gearing.

Ron1 · 11-10-1999, 12:50 AM

John, Was not disagreeing with you at all, matter of fact, I agree with you completely. You have to spin it, to keep up with those big blocks. I guess I mis-understood the purpose of the post, and looked at it from a street use perspective.

Sorry about the mix-up

Ron

John Z · 11-11-1999, 01:15 PM

Ron1 - checked out your page, Man you have some nice muscletangs. Congradualtions!!
Mine's been apart for so long that I'm wondering if I'll ever drive a mustang again, let alone park in the garage!

dark horse · 11-12-1999, 05:39 PM

How much nitrous do you think it could handle? Considering the fact that it will only be used at the track a few times (10-15 at most) a year.

Ron1 · 11-13-1999, 03:02 AM

John Z..Thanks much..I think I'm hooked on HP.

Dark Horse..Did you ever mention what kind of car this is in? On the NOS question, it really depends on what else you have done with the motor or are planning to do. Forged pistons, main girdle support, ignition and so on. Any 5.0 on the streets today can handle a 150HP shot. The real key is a NOS friendly cam. My 302 was built knowing NOS would be used, so NA it does not perform as well as it should. But a 100 HP shot..oh, man. Over a full second on a 100 HP. So your first priority is to get the motor running at peak performance naturally aspirated, and let it work with all the other components in the car. When that is done...lets add some squeeze, slowly. I would highly recommend a book called how to install and use NOS by Joe Pettitt. I am still reading it after using the stuff for a lot of years. Learn new stuff all the time.

Ron

PS Once you get that bug, that 10 to 15 times a year may change.

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 11-13-1999).]

dark horse · 11-13-1999, 12:32 PM

I'm hoping it does. All my buddieshave late model 5.0s and I'm hoping to show them what a real car is like. Its in a 1968 Coupe.

Ron1 · 11-13-1999, 04:09 PM

Well, you will have some weight to contend with. Unfortunately, people that take the classic iron, like we do, have a lot more issues to contend with. We are really rebuilding a 30 year old car. Then once that's done now we look at how much power we can throw at it. The 30 year old metal in the rear end has to be modified to maybe include a back brake, welded spring perches, new U bolts, and in order to get wide enough meats under it, maybe even shortened. Definitely has to have a 9". Boxed sub-frames, drag shocks, traction bars..and the list goes on. Before I even started on my 68, the body work, new doors (used), one new fender (used), and the rear tail lamp housing and radiator core support had to be replaced. That was over a year in the body shop.
How far along are you with that part of the restoration process?

Ron

dark horse · 11-14-1999, 02:35 AM

the cars in pretty good running condition. the engines been rebuilt. The insides all new. theres no rust. it may need a few suspension upgrades but no major body shop work... except the paints kinda ugly. It will need new rims tires a nine inch, and some tranny upgrades first... thats before i start adding any power.

Ron1 · 11-18-1999, 12:51 AM

DH, If you are going to a replace the 8 and go to a 9, if you need some extra room for the larger meats, when I went from 8 to 9, I did have the tube shortened 1 3/4 inches per side. I still have all the drawings I made up, for making the new 9 inch....so if that is something of interest, let me know. I have been working on mine for 4 years now...hope to be close by July of this year.

Ron

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 11-18-1999).]

11-07-1999, 08:39 PM	#1
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	1968-289 Anyone have experience with making horses with a 1968 289 c code? Is there alot of performance parts for it? How much $ will I need to get low to mid 13s? Anyone know of good power combos? Please don't tell me to get a 351, thats too easy, but if no one can help me, maybe I will anyway! Thanks stangers! -Jared [This message has been edited by dark horse (edited 11-07-1999).]

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11-07-1999, 09:13 PM	#2
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	Get A 351. Ok, just kidding, but it did make me laugh, do it the hard way huh? I would look seriously at the Edelbrock line. I think they have some very good well balanced engine kits.

11-07-1999, 09:21 PM	#3
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	Yeah, it may feel good to know u got a 351 under the hood, but it feels better to beat someone and u know its only a 289! Keep the replies coming! Anyone got experience with it?

11-08-1999, 08:30 AM	#4
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	You can do a lot with a 289. Check out Moneymaker http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Moneymaker.html 10.89 @ 122mph! Not your everyday Mustang. To get a c code into this class you'll need a blueprinted bottom up build up with a lot of $$$ parts.

11-08-1999, 11:09 PM	#5
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Yep, there are loads of performance products available for the 289/302. Edelbrocks RPM's Performer (as mentioned before) probably one of the best, for a good combination street/strip combination. Problem is the weight of a 68 model. Probably in the 3200 lbs. range. Someone suggested looking at the Moneymaker. If you will look at the stall ( I think 6000) that baby will spin to the moon. I think Alex said he spins to 10K. To do that, that baby has to be built to the hilt. Also the gearing (I think a 6.52),a street driver it is'nt. But I don't think it was built for that. All business, and all go fast. For a good combo, nice flowing TFS heads, mild but agressive cam, good exhaust you should be able to run in the 13's. On my page I have a 65 coupe with a 302 that ran 12.80's, drove to the track and drove home. If you are interested its www.worldaccessnet.com/~harldane/rons1.htm. And forgive me, a little bragging here from a proud papa...my FB is easy to find...it's the Mustang of the week. Ron

11-09-1999, 09:01 AM	#6
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	I made the post about Moneymaker to show how extreme a 289 can be built. Like I said it is not your every day Mustang. The only point I was attempting to make is that the 289 is a great motor and depending on how you build it you can compete with any brand Ch### products. However, due to it's relatively small displacement you will need to spin to high RPM to get the power! For everyday driving there are a lot of nice packages that give a balanced motor and these should be complimented with a reasonable rear end gearing.

11-10-1999, 12:50 AM	#7
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	John, Was not disagreeing with you at all, matter of fact, I agree with you completely. You have to spin it, to keep up with those big blocks. I guess I mis-understood the purpose of the post, and looked at it from a street use perspective. Sorry about the mix-up Ron

11-11-1999, 01:15 PM	#8
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	Ron1 - checked out your page, Man you have some nice muscletangs. Congradualtions!! Mine's been apart for so long that I'm wondering if I'll ever drive a mustang again, let alone park in the garage!

11-12-1999, 05:39 PM	#9
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	How much nitrous do you think it could handle? Considering the fact that it will only be used at the track a few times (10-15 at most) a year.

11-13-1999, 03:02 AM	#10
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	John Z..Thanks much..I think I'm hooked on HP. Dark Horse..Did you ever mention what kind of car this is in? On the NOS question, it really depends on what else you have done with the motor or are planning to do. Forged pistons, main girdle support, ignition and so on. Any 5.0 on the streets today can handle a 150HP shot. The real key is a NOS friendly cam. My 302 was built knowing NOS would be used, so NA it does not perform as well as it should. But a 100 HP shot..oh, man. Over a full second on a 100 HP. So your first priority is to get the motor running at peak performance naturally aspirated, and let it work with all the other components in the car. When that is done...lets add some squeeze, slowly. I would highly recommend a book called how to install and use NOS by Joe Pettitt. I am still reading it after using the stuff for a lot of years. Learn new stuff all the time. Ron PS Once you get that bug, that 10 to 15 times a year may change. [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 11-13-1999).]

11-13-1999, 12:32 PM	#11
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	I'm hoping it does. All my buddieshave late model 5.0s and I'm hoping to show them what a real car is like. Its in a 1968 Coupe.

11-13-1999, 04:09 PM	#12
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Well, you will have some weight to contend with. Unfortunately, people that take the classic iron, like we do, have a lot more issues to contend with. We are really rebuilding a 30 year old car. Then once that's done now we look at how much power we can throw at it. The 30 year old metal in the rear end has to be modified to maybe include a back brake, welded spring perches, new U bolts, and in order to get wide enough meats under it, maybe even shortened. Definitely has to have a 9". Boxed sub-frames, drag shocks, traction bars..and the list goes on. Before I even started on my 68, the body work, new doors (used), one new fender (used), and the rear tail lamp housing and radiator core support had to be replaced. That was over a year in the body shop. How far along are you with that part of the restoration process? Ron

11-14-1999, 02:35 AM	#13
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	the cars in pretty good running condition. the engines been rebuilt. The insides all new. theres no rust. it may need a few suspension upgrades but no major body shop work... except the paints kinda ugly. It will need new rims tires a nine inch, and some tranny upgrades first... thats before i start adding any power.

11-18-1999, 12:51 AM	#14
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	DH, If you are going to a replace the 8 and go to a 9, if you need some extra room for the larger meats, when I went from 8 to 9, I did have the tube shortened 1 3/4 inches per side. I still have all the drawings I made up, for making the new 9 inch....so if that is something of interest, let me know. I have been working on mine for 4 years now...hope to be close by July of this year. Ron [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 11-18-1999).]