10 yrs. of storage.

Diggedirt · 09-07-2000, 12:14 PM

I am a new member who has owned a 72 Mach 1 for 11 years, 10 of which the stang has regrettably spent in outdoor storage. I finally have a garage in which to store/work on the mustang. What I need to do is determine if restoration is a justifiable action(beyond sentimental reasons)or if selling/parting out(ouch!)is a better plan. The car ran when it was parked and is complete. I would like to know how to go about a complete rust inspection to determine the damage already done and ballpark estimate the cost to repair. I would also like to know what I need to do to the engine,etc. because of the long storage term. If anyone has info or links for these subjects I would greatly appreciate any help.

69witha351c · 09-07-2000, 05:28 PM

Please dont part it out. the worst thing is to see a car being parted out. you might be able to get some good$$ for parting it but and the end you have to pay to junk it. trust me, i've been through one and going through one at the moment. it depends how much of a restore your thining of about $5k can fix the car up. engine $1-2k, body less then 2K and inside about 1k. if there is an electrical prob it might be more.
i have restored a 69' that i the engine was from a 73' that i junked

but most important time. time. time.

Rev · 09-07-2000, 09:00 PM

The main thing making restoration not feasable on the more common Mustangs is rust. Especially rust that's hard to get to. Check carefully:
1.) Inside the cowl around where the vent drains to the outside, Especially difficult to repair correctly. Leaks here drain to the inside and rust out the floor pans.
2.) Floor pans themselves rusted from leaks from the heater core, cowl, or just window seals.
3.)Trunk floor area around where the gas tank fits in. Often caused by trunk seals leaking.
4.) Convertibles have their own set of problems relating to the boot area leaking. I'm not really familiar with these, never having owned a vert.
5.)Frame rails under a rusted trunk floor.
6.)Outer wheel housings.
7.)Any rust in body panels that you can see. 8.)It's always 10 times worse than what it appears.
9.)IT ALWAYS COSTS 10 TIMES WHAT YOU EXPECT.
Happy restoration.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear,
March under drive pulleys,
13.97 e.t., 100.1 mph
1/4 mi.

[This message has been edited by Rev (edited 09-07-2000).]

09-07-2000, 12:14 PM	#1
Diggedirt Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 6	10 yrs. of storage. I am a new member who has owned a 72 Mach 1 for 11 years, 10 of which the stang has regrettably spent in outdoor storage. I finally have a garage in which to store/work on the mustang. What I need to do is determine if restoration is a justifiable action(beyond sentimental reasons)or if selling/parting out(ouch!)is a better plan. The car ran when it was parked and is complete. I would like to know how to go about a complete rust inspection to determine the damage already done and ballpark estimate the cost to repair. I would also like to know what I need to do to the engine,etc. because of the long storage term. If anyone has info or links for these subjects I would greatly appreciate any help.

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09-07-2000, 05:28 PM	#2
69witha351c Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: los angeles, ca, usa Posts: 1	Please dont part it out. the worst thing is to see a car being parted out. you might be able to get some good$$ for parting it but and the end you have to pay to junk it. trust me, i've been through one and going through one at the moment. it depends how much of a restore your thining of about $5k can fix the car up. engine $1-2k, body less then 2K and inside about 1k. if there is an electrical prob it might be more. i have restored a 69' that i the engine was from a 73' that i junked but most important time. time. time.

09-07-2000, 09:00 PM	#3
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	The main thing making restoration not feasable on the more common Mustangs is rust. Especially rust that's hard to get to. Check carefully: 1.) Inside the cowl around where the vent drains to the outside, Especially difficult to repair correctly. Leaks here drain to the inside and rust out the floor pans. 2.) Floor pans themselves rusted from leaks from the heater core, cowl, or just window seals. 3.)Trunk floor area around where the gas tank fits in. Often caused by trunk seals leaking. 4.) Convertibles have their own set of problems relating to the boot area leaking. I'm not really familiar with these, never having owned a vert. 5.)Frame rails under a rusted trunk floor. 6.)Outer wheel housings. 7.)Any rust in body panels that you can see. 8.)It's always 10 times worse than what it appears. 9.)IT ALWAYS COSTS 10 TIMES WHAT YOU EXPECT. Happy restoration. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear, March under drive pulleys, 13.97 e.t., 100.1 mph 1/4 mi. [This message has been edited by Rev (edited 09-07-2000).]