'68 289 Valve Clicking

dep · 06-23-1999, 07:12 PM

I am hearing a clicking noise only when the car is accelerating--pulling a load (not when idling). The engine is a rebuilt 289 about 2 years old with only about 2,000 miles on it. I took the valve cover off thinking the valve clearance for the hydraulic lifters was too much. I tightened 4 of the rocker arms about 1/4 of a turn each, but was unable to figure out how to measure the proper distance. This tightening resulted in a lessening of the clicking noise, but I would like to do it correctly. I have a Haynes manual that looks like they are using some tool to hold the rocker arm up and get the measurement with the feeler gauge. Has anybody ever experienced something similar to this? I would like to get it sounding good before I put a new Flowmaster on it.
Thanks.

thunderbolt · 06-24-1999, 01:43 AM

The valve adustments you saw were probably for a solid lifter cam which requires a feeler guage to set the proper distance. In a hydraulic cam, the rocker arm will always ride on the valve stem.
What you might try is this. With the engine warm (but not running) pull off the valve covers. Get a wrench on the crank so you can rotate the enging. Next watch each set of valves as you rotate the engine. As the intake finishes closing take the push rod for exhaust in your hand and try to rotate it. If proper preload is set it should not rotate easily. Next rotate engine until exhaust is just starting to open. Repeat push rod check on the intake rod. This opening and closing valve routien is to make sure the lifter you are checking is on a flat part of the cam. Note if your lifters are old this will not work well because they will pump down, but if lifters are in good shape this should work well.
Good luck

dep · 06-24-1999, 06:57 AM

Thanks for the reply. One question as I'm new to this stuff. When do you use the gauge to check the distance? If you could give step by step or a little more detail I would appreciate it. The Haynes manual I was using did refer to the solid lifters which had a different set of measurements than the hydraulic which I have. Also, the gap on the hydraulic is between .08 and .12, which is rather large and I have been unable to locate a guage this big. Thanks again.

Clark Rodgers · 06-24-1999, 09:09 AM

It sounds like your getting some good advice on how to check the adjustment by rotating and checking the rockers. I have one of those old shade tree ways of getting the job done. You just need an old set of valve covers that you don't mind cutting the top of them off. Just loosely install these and start the engine until it's warm and then go one by one and back off the adjustment nut till you here the valve ticking and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This can be done without these covers but what a mess, usually you can find a set of old covers for next to nothing. I know it sounds a little strange but this really works and I'm sure thunderbolt's way will work too.
I know you would like a more precise way of doing this but I think the measurements they give you are only for intial setup's not the final adjustment.Hopefully someone will let both of us know.

dep · 06-24-1999, 10:10 AM

Clark--sounds like an excellent idea. The only question I have left (for now

is it only clicks when under a load now when idling or revving--how can I simulate this, or should I be able to hear it with the covers off.

S7MS · 06-26-1999, 12:49 PM

The method demonstrated in the manual is the way to find if the pushrods are the correct length...you collapse the lifter plunger and then measure the rocker arm to valve stem clearance...this is done on the heal of the cam lobe.

You can adjust the rockers all day long...but if the pushrod length is not correct...you will not achieve correct valve timing or correct valvetrain geometry.

This procedure needs to be done after a valve job, a cam change or any other operation or component change that may affect deck height.

O/S and U/S pushrods are availble for service from FORD as well as all the major aftermarket cam manufacturers.

Hope this explains what you saw in the manual...FORD service literature will be more explanatory.

------------------
"Son...You Are Going To Drive Me To Drinking...
If You Don`t Stop Driving That Hot Rod Lincoln"

Dave1 · 06-27-1999, 02:34 PM

You have alot of good instruction here on how to set the valves correctly.

But, are you sure it is the valves and not that the engine is "Pinging" on the pull??

Try rolling the timing back a few degrees and see if it stops. If it does, It ain't the valves.

------------------
Dave Pitt
68 FB, 289
68 FB, 428 CJ

dep · 06-27-1999, 04:21 PM

I'll give that(timing) a shot as I'm not entirely sure that it is the valves. I was just assuming this. That would be a welcome surprise!

06-23-1999, 07:12 PM	#1
dep Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 9	'68 289 Valve Clicking I am hearing a clicking noise only when the car is accelerating--pulling a load (not when idling). The engine is a rebuilt 289 about 2 years old with only about 2,000 miles on it. I took the valve cover off thinking the valve clearance for the hydraulic lifters was too much. I tightened 4 of the rocker arms about 1/4 of a turn each, but was unable to figure out how to measure the proper distance. This tightening resulted in a lessening of the clicking noise, but I would like to do it correctly. I have a Haynes manual that looks like they are using some tool to hold the rocker arm up and get the measurement with the feeler gauge. Has anybody ever experienced something similar to this? I would like to get it sounding good before I put a new Flowmaster on it. Thanks.

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06-24-1999, 01:43 AM	#2
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	The valve adustments you saw were probably for a solid lifter cam which requires a feeler guage to set the proper distance. In a hydraulic cam, the rocker arm will always ride on the valve stem. What you might try is this. With the engine warm (but not running) pull off the valve covers. Get a wrench on the crank so you can rotate the enging. Next watch each set of valves as you rotate the engine. As the intake finishes closing take the push rod for exhaust in your hand and try to rotate it. If proper preload is set it should not rotate easily. Next rotate engine until exhaust is just starting to open. Repeat push rod check on the intake rod. This opening and closing valve routien is to make sure the lifter you are checking is on a flat part of the cam. Note if your lifters are old this will not work well because they will pump down, but if lifters are in good shape this should work well. Good luck

06-24-1999, 06:57 AM	#3
dep Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 9	Thanks for the reply. One question as I'm new to this stuff. When do you use the gauge to check the distance? If you could give step by step or a little more detail I would appreciate it. The Haynes manual I was using did refer to the solid lifters which had a different set of measurements than the hydraulic which I have. Also, the gap on the hydraulic is between .08 and .12, which is rather large and I have been unable to locate a guage this big. Thanks again.

06-24-1999, 09:09 AM	#4
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	It sounds like your getting some good advice on how to check the adjustment by rotating and checking the rockers. I have one of those old shade tree ways of getting the job done. You just need an old set of valve covers that you don't mind cutting the top of them off. Just loosely install these and start the engine until it's warm and then go one by one and back off the adjustment nut till you here the valve ticking and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This can be done without these covers but what a mess, usually you can find a set of old covers for next to nothing. I know it sounds a little strange but this really works and I'm sure thunderbolt's way will work too. I know you would like a more precise way of doing this but I think the measurements they give you are only for intial setup's not the final adjustment.Hopefully someone will let both of us know.

06-24-1999, 10:10 AM	#5
dep Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 9	Clark--sounds like an excellent idea. The only question I have left (for now is it only clicks when under a load now when idling or revving--how can I simulate this, or should I be able to hear it with the covers off.

06-26-1999, 12:49 PM	#6
S7MS Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Maryland Posts: 3	The method demonstrated in the manual is the way to find if the pushrods are the correct length...you collapse the lifter plunger and then measure the rocker arm to valve stem clearance...this is done on the heal of the cam lobe. You can adjust the rockers all day long...but if the pushrod length is not correct...you will not achieve correct valve timing or correct valvetrain geometry. This procedure needs to be done after a valve job, a cam change or any other operation or component change that may affect deck height. O/S and U/S pushrods are availble for service from FORD as well as all the major aftermarket cam manufacturers. Hope this explains what you saw in the manual...FORD service literature will be more explanatory. ------------------ "Son...You Are Going To Drive Me To Drinking... If You Don`t Stop Driving That Hot Rod Lincoln"

06-27-1999, 02:34 PM	#7
Dave1 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: canada Posts: 1	You have alot of good instruction here on how to set the valves correctly. But, are you sure it is the valves and not that the engine is "Pinging" on the pull?? Try rolling the timing back a few degrees and see if it stops. If it does, It ain't the valves. ------------------ Dave Pitt 68 FB, 289 68 FB, 428 CJ

06-27-1999, 04:21 PM	#8
dep Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 9	I'll give that(timing) a shot as I'm not entirely sure that it is the valves. I was just assuming this. That would be a welcome surprise!