MustangWorks.com - The Ford Mustang Power Source!

Go Back   MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums > Mustang & Ford Tech > Classic Mustangs
Register FAQ Members List Calendar

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 10-10-2003, 10:36 PM   #1
kirkdickinson
Registered Member
 
kirkdickinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Barnesville, Ohio
Posts: 9
Question 68 Mustang Engine Swap pulley problems

I just put a 302 into a 68 Mustang that used to have a 289 in it.

I know that the 289 isn't original and the guy at the machine shop told me it was out of a 67 Mustang.

The 289 was totally ruined with two broken pistons and bad scars inside the cylinder, broken valves, broken valve springs, etc... (already bored .60 over)

I purchased a 302 from a junkyard that was sold to me as a 351 Winsor from a truck, but after spending two days to get it ready to drop in, we discovered that it is actually a 302. And the numbers on the intake manifold say it came from a 68 Mustang. Decided to go ahead and put it in.

Well, the Mustang has a crossflow radiator and the 302 had a water pump that didn't have the outlet on the correct side, so we put the water pump from the 289 so that the radiator would work. Now the problem starts. The 289 had lower pulleys and waterpump pulley that were nearly the same size. The 302 had a bigger lower pulley, and a smaller waterpump pulley.

No problem, use the 302 pulley on the 289 waterpump. No go. The 289 waterpump is not as deep and the pulley doesn't line up. The pulley needs to be about 3/8" farther out.

Ok, No problem, I think, take the lower pulleys off of the 289 and then all the front pulleys will match, and the waterpump. Look at the pulleys and the 289 is a three bolt pulley and the 302 is a four bolt pulley. Besides the front of the 302 crank looks bigger.

I thought about using a stack of washers, but fear that there will be balancing problems with the water pump pulley since the pulley will be out past the center shaft.

I can't be the first one with this problem. Any solutions?

Thanks,

Kirk
kirkdickinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2003, 10:29 AM   #2
Dark Knight
Registered Member
 
Dark Knight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
Default

sounds like you have either a later 302, or a different balancer.. either get a new 3 bolt one.. or use the old one.. if it's good..

you might check and post the block casting number.. so you can be sure of the year,... they didnt make a 351w in 68, BTW..
__________________
84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-)
http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg
Dark Knight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2003, 10:53 AM   #3
kirkdickinson
Registered Member
 
kirkdickinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Barnesville, Ohio
Posts: 9
Cool

Where is the block casting number? I thought it was under the intake manifold and I didn't look for it when we changed from the 2bbl to the 4bbl manifold.

I know there wasn't a 351W in 1968, the engine that I was supposed to get came out of a mid 80's Ford truck.

So you think I should switch the balancer? Isn't that balanced with the crank. If I mix and match balancers, won't that make my engine out of balance?

Thanks,

Kirk
kirkdickinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2003, 01:46 PM   #4
Dark Knight
Registered Member
 
Dark Knight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Az
Posts: 854
Default

the casting number is on the bottom.. above the starter...
as long as the balance is the same, the balancer wont matter..
you just need to find out the year.. so you know if it's 28oz or 50oz balance

btw, the head casting numbers are under the intake ports, you can see them with a mirror if the intake is off..
__________________
84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-)
http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg
Dark Knight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2003, 10:58 PM   #5
HotRoddin
cranky old man
 
HotRoddin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Longview Texas
Posts: 683
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by kirkdickinson
Where is the block casting number?Kirk
Try this it may help you sort things out

http://www.members.tripod.com/thefal...ockdecode.html
__________________
Under Construction: 64 Falcon 372 cu in. stroker 1:72 rod ratio 6.250" rods (long rod), Comp Cams XE274 230/236 520/526 @ .050, Scorpion Rollers, Roush 200 irons, 10:1 Keith Blacks, Hedman long tubes, 750 Holley DP, Edelbrock Victor Jr., C4 3500 stall, gears and tires to be anounced.
HotRoddin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2003, 12:58 AM   #6
kirkdickinson
Registered Member
 
kirkdickinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Barnesville, Ohio
Posts: 9
Default

Thanks for the decoding information.

I will check out the engine tomarrow.

Kirk
kirkdickinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2003, 01:48 PM   #7
mustangII460
Factoy Five Roadster
 
mustangII460's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
Default

Sorry I got a little confused.

If you have a three bolt balancer on the new motor it is pre 1969.

Water pumps on later motors dumped to the driver side.

You can buy a water pump for that conversion. But they are not stock from Ford. They will dump right side and the snout will be shorter and lower like the older ones. Or just change your radiator tanks for @ $75.00 or so. Which I recommend. Then you can use the later model pumps that are hands down better and stock Ford. Also you can go to a serpintine belt later if you want.

Frank.
mustangII460 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2003, 08:48 PM   #8
kirkdickinson
Registered Member
 
kirkdickinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Barnesville, Ohio
Posts: 9
Cool

Quote:
Sorry I got a little confused.

If you have a three bolt balancer on the new motor it is pre 1969.
No, the old motor that lunched had a 3-bolt balancer. The new motor has a 4 bolt balancer.

Quote:

Water pumps on later motors dumped to the driver side.

You can buy a water pump for that conversion. But they are not stock from Ford. They will dump right side and the snout will be shorter and lower like the older ones. Or just change your radiator tanks for @ $75.00 or so.
The radiator in there is a three core radiator that I remember that I paid $175 for.

Quote:

Which I recommend. Then you can use the later model pumps that are hands down better and stock Ford. Also you can go to a serpintine belt later if you want.
So the later model pumps are better? Why? And how could I go serpintine without a serpintine tensionier?

Thanks,

Kirk
kirkdickinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 03:37 PM   #9
mustangII460
Factoy Five Roadster
 
mustangII460's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
Default

Late model pumps are more efficient and have different choices of pump material, and different flow rates per RPM. Long ago I would cut blades off the impeller to reduce resistance and for higher RPM flow. A water pump is set to flow its best around 2500 RPM or so. At speed your car relies on the high flow of air forced into the car. At idle your car needs the pump, and fan to stay cool.

Serp pumps on mid 1980's motors had a standard rotation pump with a serp belt. Unlike the later serp pump reverse rotation.

Look at a mid 80's serp belt setup. If the pump pulley is splined the pump is normal rotation, smooth/reverse. I use a 1986 Marquis 302 in my old Bronco. It has a serp belt normal rotation. NO TENSIONER. I run ALT/PUMP/PWR STEERING & Balancer. Except I got lazy and bent a piece of exhaust pipe to cross under the radiator instead of changing the the bottom outlet to the drivers side. Maybe one day.

I did run into space problem. I couldn't run the clutch fan, or just the fan w/no clutch. I used a old Ford 4 blade fan. Works great. A clutch fan is farther out from the belt. Without the clutch it hit the belt. The 4 blader was skinny enuff to clear everything.

The only way to tell a pumps rotation (off car) is by the impeller, outsides are the same.

Hope this helps.

Frank
mustangII460 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2003, 02:36 AM   #10
rwhite65
Ride Hard
 
rwhite65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
Default the 289 front dress

why not use the 289 front dress on the 302? water pump, pulley's, balancer...ext.? If it is a later model 302, the 289 balancer should be fine.
Ryan
__________________
65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I
AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc

04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition

79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored
rwhite65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2008, 07:45 PM   #11
houseboatduhg
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kingman AZ
Posts: 1
Default Re: 68 Mustang Engine Swap pulley problems

I have recently run into this same situation. Twenty years ago I dumped a 302 from a 71 torino into my 68 fastback. Everything worked great for the last twenty years, but I recently ruptured a hole in the bottom of the radiator, so I purchased a new alluminum radiator, that's when I reallized I must have used the torino radiator. The outlet for the new radiator dumped to the passenger side and water pump pick-up was to driver's side. So I bought the mustang water pump, but power steering and alt. brackets were different. finally got that pretty much sorted out, and then last night went to mount the water pump pulley and it hit the lower pulley and is 1/2" to far back. Any suggestions?????
houseboatduhg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
engine swap indytrucks Windsor Power 16 09-25-2003 09:24 AM
Woodward Dream Cruise - 2003 drudis Ford Show & Go 0 07-24-2003 08:53 AM
Engine swap: boeing727 Windsor Power 10 11-26-2001 03:56 AM
Engine swap: boeing727 Built Ford Tough 1 11-20-2001 10:38 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:37 PM.


SEARCH