A/C Fix it yourself? Freon/134?

06-14-2001, 08:25 AM

Hey guys,
I just bought a 92 LX that hasn't moved in 15 months. I live in Orlando, and have to have some A/C and this thing just blows out hot air. I just sold my 95 Cobra that had R134, do the 92's have 134 or Freon. Assuming that there are no leaks and the system is good, it there a do it yourself kit to re-charge the A/C? Do I have to convert to R134? Is there a driveway conversion kit for that? I don't want to take is somewhere and have some moron tell me it's gonna be $600 bucks because of this and that.

Thanks-

Capri306 · 06-14-2001, 08:58 AM

The only way to tell for sure is by the sticker under the hood if it's R12 or R134a, but you can check the recharging ports, too. Screw-ons are for R12, quick-connects are for R134a.

If the system hasn't been opened, and there aren't any obvious leaks, it should be salvageable. The first thing you should do is take it to an a/c shop so they can put a vacuum on the system to 1) take any remaining R12 out and 2) find if the system holds vacuum. My guess is that it will not hold since it's blowing hot air for you now. Is the compressor kicking on when you turn on the a/c? If not, that's another sign the system is probably empty (assuming the clutch, the fuse, and the WOT cutout relay are good). Look for oil leaks around the connections on the hoses. This will show you where you'll have to replace O-rings. One note: if you have to open the system...hell, even if you don't you should replace the accumulator. That's that big black can up by the firewall. All it consists of is a sponge in a can, but it can mean life or death for your a/c's cooling capacity. Water is the system's #1 enemy.

Okay, after the system is good & tight, you can get a conversion kit from your local parts store for about $35-40. The kit should have all of the necessary charging adapters, a can tap with hose, an 8.5oz can of oil charge & seal conditioner, 3 cans of R134a, and a sticker to put under the hood to tell the next guy who services it that the car's been converted. The procedure is very simple and straight forward. You don't have to worry about blowing your hand off because the charging hose will only fit the low pressure side, as will the low side fitting/adapter. Aren't those SAE guys great?

It only takes about 30 minutes to totally convert & refill the system.

Don't let anybody con you into staying with R12, either. All it does is cost more (a LOT more) and blow holes in the ozone layer. You can't get R12 without a license anymore, plus production of the stuff stopped years ago. It's like $30-35 per 12oz can now, versus only $5-6 for R134a!!! Anyone that says R134a doesn't blow as cold is invited to sit in my converted '87 Mustang and get numb ears like I do.

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

jimberg · 06-14-2001, 08:59 AM

If you go to Pep Bpys, or some other parts store they should have a kit to convert from R12 to R134a. Freon is real expensive since they don't make it anymore and you have to be certified to even buy the stuff as an individual. I converted my 89 with the kit and it blows real cold.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

06-14-2001, 10:53 AM

OK, I've found out that it is a R12 system. Is says so on the radiator, and it has screw on fittings. I'm not sure how exactly the compressor works on A/C, but it is kicking on and off periodically. Is it supposed to kick on and stay on, or only stay on for a few seconds and then off? I can't seem to find any leaks, but it's pretty ugly under there, I haven't had a chance to clean up the engine yet. The Accumlator has easy access, but to remove the top of the cannister requires taking off the line that goes through the firewall. Is this the low pressure line that is ok to disconnect or will it cause global warming? I can't see a way to get it off any other way. Is it necessary to remove all the R12 and do a vaccuum test (I realize it's a good idea) or can I just get the R134 kit and go from there? Also, ballpark the price of a accumulator?

Thanks for the help
Capri-- I appreciate the informative reponse.

Five0 · 06-14-2001, 08:04 PM

When I did mine we got the conversion kit and converted it but it still did not blow cold. We went through a lot of BS before we found the problem; it was the liquid line.
Here are the parts I recommend for the conversion and you can do it in your driveway.
1. Dryer
2. New liquid line
3. Conversion kit and 1 extra can of r-134a

As long as there is not any thing seriously wrong like having contaminates in the system, which is unlikely, it should work fine.

The dryer is about 150 or less.
The liquid line is about 30 to 40 dollars.
The conversion kit is about 30 to 40 dollars.

You could maybe do it with only the conversion kit but I would replace all the items listed just to make sure it works right the first time and you don’t have any problems down the road.

------------------
James Cox
nochevy@hotmail.com
1991 Mustang LX
12.565 @109.38mph 1.764 60ft

Maroon 5.0 LX · 06-14-2001, 09:09 PM

They charge anywhere from $50 - $75 a lb. for R-12 in my area. For the price of a refill with R-12 and labor, you could have an AC shop do the whole conversion for you if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. Check some shops and get some estimates.

It is imperative you pull a vacuum before any refill.

------------------
'89 LX 5.0 - 5 speed. Original Owner
'94 E-150 Conversion Van

1BAD89 · 06-14-2001, 10:48 PM

It's really really easy to convert it. I'm 18 and I did mine and it works awesome.

------------------
3:55's,BBK Off-Road H-pipe,BBK jet-hot coated equal length shorty headers,BBK 70mm Throttle Body,BBK adjustable clutch quadrant,C & L 76mm Mass air meter,Cobra R's 17x9 w/ 245's,Trick Flow Intake,Flowmaster Force II exhaust system, Super Duty T5,Centerforce II Clutch,Heavy Duty Radiator,9mm Ford racing plug wires,Accel cap and Rotor

www.geocities.com/i8urvpr/JM.html?987369348700

06-15-2001, 01:07 AM

Two things to remember:
R12 is expensive so if you stay with it, it'd be worth your time to get a leak detection dye just in case to find out if there's a leak so you can fix it after it leaks out.
Another is a small leak with R12 is a huge leak with R134a. The molecules of R134a are quite a bit smaller than R12 so they leak real fast, but thankfully it's inexpensive and doesn't harm the environment. Also, getting dye in it if you convert would be a good idea to see if there's a leak to fix.
One more thing:
The best lubricant for the lines is Ester, I've heard that PAG can discolor your skin if you get it on you, especially if the AC system decides to blow up when you're tinkering with it.
Good luck!

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
My car

06-15-2001, 06:55 AM

Well, I got the conversion kit yesterday but I need to get the R12 sucked out and a pressure test now I guess. Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Is the accumulator and the dryer the same thing? If not, where is the dryer located?

Thanks again.

QUIN · 06-15-2001, 09:25 AM

guess its too late now,,, but i was going to tell you that i have a compressor already converted that i pulled off the car and cant decide what to do with. i was going to offer it to you for a good price, but if you already bought the kit than you probably wont be interested.
if you find out the leak is in the compressor by any chance, or for any other reason, shoot me an email though. i need to get rid of some of this stuff im not using anymore.
Q

------------------
Quin, 87 GT,306,forged/cut pistons,edelbrock head\intake,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims

See my engine on user rides.

I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it!

06-14-2001, 08:25 AM	#1
9Cobra5 Guest Posts: n/a	A/C Fix it yourself? Freon/134? Hey guys, I just bought a 92 LX that hasn't moved in 15 months. I live in Orlando, and have to have some A/C and this thing just blows out hot air. I just sold my 95 Cobra that had R134, do the 92's have 134 or Freon. Assuming that there are no leaks and the system is good, it there a do it yourself kit to re-charge the A/C? Do I have to convert to R134? Is there a driveway conversion kit for that? I don't want to take is somewhere and have some moron tell me it's gonna be $600 bucks because of this and that. Thanks-

06-14-2001, 08:58 AM	#2
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	The only way to tell for sure is by the sticker under the hood if it's R12 or R134a, but you can check the recharging ports, too. Screw-ons are for R12, quick-connects are for R134a. If the system hasn't been opened, and there aren't any obvious leaks, it should be salvageable. The first thing you should do is take it to an a/c shop so they can put a vacuum on the system to 1) take any remaining R12 out and 2) find if the system holds vacuum. My guess is that it will not hold since it's blowing hot air for you now. Is the compressor kicking on when you turn on the a/c? If not, that's another sign the system is probably empty (assuming the clutch, the fuse, and the WOT cutout relay are good). Look for oil leaks around the connections on the hoses. This will show you where you'll have to replace O-rings. One note: if you have to open the system...hell, even if you don't you should replace the accumulator. That's that big black can up by the firewall. All it consists of is a sponge in a can, but it can mean life or death for your a/c's cooling capacity. Water is the system's #1 enemy. Okay, after the system is good & tight, you can get a conversion kit from your local parts store for about $35-40. The kit should have all of the necessary charging adapters, a can tap with hose, an 8.5oz can of oil charge & seal conditioner, 3 cans of R134a, and a sticker to put under the hood to tell the next guy who services it that the car's been converted. The procedure is very simple and straight forward. You don't have to worry about blowing your hand off because the charging hose will only fit the low pressure side, as will the low side fitting/adapter. Aren't those SAE guys great? It only takes about 30 minutes to totally convert & refill the system. Don't let anybody con you into staying with R12, either. All it does is cost more (a LOT more) and blow holes in the ozone layer. You can't get R12 without a license anymore, plus production of the stuff stopped years ago. It's like $30-35 per 12oz can now, versus only $5-6 for R134a!!! Anyone that says R134a doesn't blow as cold is invited to sit in my converted '87 Mustang and get numb ears like I do. ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch

06-14-2001, 08:59 AM	#3
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	If you go to Pep Bpys, or some other parts store they should have a kit to convert from R12 to R134a. Freon is real expensive since they don't make it anymore and you have to be certified to even buy the stuff as an individual. I converted my 89 with the kit and it blows real cold. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

06-14-2001, 10:53 AM	#4
9Cobra5 Guest Posts: n/a	OK, I've found out that it is a R12 system. Is says so on the radiator, and it has screw on fittings. I'm not sure how exactly the compressor works on A/C, but it is kicking on and off periodically. Is it supposed to kick on and stay on, or only stay on for a few seconds and then off? I can't seem to find any leaks, but it's pretty ugly under there, I haven't had a chance to clean up the engine yet. The Accumlator has easy access, but to remove the top of the cannister requires taking off the line that goes through the firewall. Is this the low pressure line that is ok to disconnect or will it cause global warming? I can't see a way to get it off any other way. Is it necessary to remove all the R12 and do a vaccuum test (I realize it's a good idea) or can I just get the R134 kit and go from there? Also, ballpark the price of a accumulator? Thanks for the help Capri-- I appreciate the informative reponse.

06-14-2001, 08:04 PM	#5
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	When I did mine we got the conversion kit and converted it but it still did not blow cold. We went through a lot of BS before we found the problem; it was the liquid line. Here are the parts I recommend for the conversion and you can do it in your driveway. 1. Dryer 2. New liquid line 3. Conversion kit and 1 extra can of r-134a As long as there is not any thing seriously wrong like having contaminates in the system, which is unlikely, it should work fine. The dryer is about 150 or less. The liquid line is about 30 to 40 dollars. The conversion kit is about 30 to 40 dollars. You could maybe do it with only the conversion kit but I would replace all the items listed just to make sure it works right the first time and you don’t have any problems down the road. ------------------ James Cox nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX 12.565 @109.38mph 1.764 60ft

06-14-2001, 09:09 PM	#6
Maroon 5.0 LX Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 471	They charge anywhere from $50 - $75 a lb. for R-12 in my area. For the price of a refill with R-12 and labor, you could have an AC shop do the whole conversion for you if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. Check some shops and get some estimates. It is imperative you pull a vacuum before any refill. ------------------ '89 LX 5.0 - 5 speed. Original Owner '94 E-150 Conversion Van

06-14-2001, 10:48 PM	#7
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	It's really really easy to convert it. I'm 18 and I did mine and it works awesome. ------------------ 3:55's,BBK Off-Road H-pipe,BBK jet-hot coated equal length shorty headers,BBK 70mm Throttle Body,BBK adjustable clutch quadrant,C & L 76mm Mass air meter,Cobra R's 17x9 w/ 245's,Trick Flow Intake,Flowmaster Force II exhaust system, Super Duty T5,Centerforce II Clutch,Heavy Duty Radiator,9mm Ford racing plug wires,Accel cap and Rotor www.geocities.com/i8urvpr/JM.html?987369348700

06-15-2001, 01:07 AM	#8
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	Two things to remember: R12 is expensive so if you stay with it, it'd be worth your time to get a leak detection dye just in case to find out if there's a leak so you can fix it after it leaks out. Another is a small leak with R12 is a huge leak with R134a. The molecules of R134a are quite a bit smaller than R12 so they leak real fast, but thankfully it's inexpensive and doesn't harm the environment. Also, getting dye in it if you convert would be a good idea to see if there's a leak to fix. One more thing: The best lubricant for the lines is Ester, I've heard that PAG can discolor your skin if you get it on you, especially if the AC system decides to blow up when you're tinkering with it. Good luck! ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car

06-15-2001, 06:55 AM	#9
9Cobra5 Guest Posts: n/a	Well, I got the conversion kit yesterday but I need to get the R12 sucked out and a pressure test now I guess. Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Is the accumulator and the dryer the same thing? If not, where is the dryer located? Thanks again.

06-15-2001, 09:25 AM	#10
QUIN Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Chillicothe, OH. Posts: 1,289	guess its too late now,,, but i was going to tell you that i have a compressor already converted that i pulled off the car and cant decide what to do with. i was going to offer it to you for a good price, but if you already bought the kit than you probably wont be interested. if you find out the leak is in the compressor by any chance, or for any other reason, shoot me an email though. i need to get rid of some of this stuff im not using anymore. Q ------------------ Quin, 87 GT,306,forged/cut pistons,edelbrock head\intake,steeda#18cam,1.7rr,MSD Blaster tfi coil,A9L,pro-m75mm,24#inj,accufab65mm,2.5"pipes,hooker headers,dynomax exhaust,3.73 gr,110 lph fp,moroso cold air,ASP pullies, weld rims See my engine on user rides. I see your shwartz is as big as mine, now lets see how well you handle it!