Replacing Lower Control Arm

orlowted · 06-20-2004, 06:05 PM

Hello all...I am getting ready to replace the lower control arm on my 65 Mustang. I put a new suspension kit on the fron about ayear ago, but noticed that the left side did not assemble the same as the right - What I mean is that the bolt from the spindle sank all the way down on the ball joint causing it to split open (the boot). I have another arm coming this week and was wondering if there is a proceedure to putting these on. My steering has been sloppy and many noises were coming from the drivers side in the front. I am hoping that this fixes the problem, but somehow feel that I did not install it correctly the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TJ

Rev · 06-22-2004, 04:49 PM

Not sure I understand completely. The stud from the ball joint is a part of the lower control arm. The lower control arm comes with the ball joint and stud attatched (riveted I think), and not replaceble. That stud goes into th bottom of the spindle (tapered fit). If the stud goes too far into the spindle, then it's the wrong spindle for that ball joint stud I would guess.

Rev.

orlowted · 06-22-2004, 05:42 PM

Rev - That is exactly right...the arm has the ball joint riveted onto it. When I put the stud onto the spindle it went down too far (in ,my opinion) and burst the boot. The other side did not do that and it went down about 1/4 inch less. I got both arms as a set new, so I figure I got a bad arm or a bad spindle. I have already ordered another arm with ball joint attached since it was relatively cheap. I had a sloppy feeling on the drivers side of the front end and some noise coming from that area...not sure what else it could have been since almost everything else is new. I will know as soon as I put the new arm on just by how far it goes down before it stops. I guess it is entirely possible that the spindle hole is worn too. I hope that is not the case, the disk brakes I am planning on getting use the existing drum brake spindles. I will let you know what I find out as soon as the part gets here...
TJ

orlowted · 06-24-2004, 05:30 PM

Hello all - I replaced the drivers side with the new control arm and ball joint...What a difference it made. It stopped where it was supposed to and went together just perfect. I am going to replace the other side now and see if I can get the front end aligned. Then all should be just fine in the front end.
TJ

Rev · 06-24-2004, 08:35 PM

That last one must have been the wrong lower control arm or at least the wrong lower ball joint stud. Maybe the studs are different for 6 cyl. vs. 8 cyl. applications? I'm not sure.

Rev

orlowted · 06-27-2004, 04:55 PM

Not sure if they were inferior arms, ball joints or both...but I am glad I spent the money and got new ones. I took the car out today and what a massive difference. It holds true to the road and I was able to drive it like a normal car. I am as happy as can be...now I can move on to cosmetics issues.

TJ

06-20-2004, 06:05 PM	#1
orlowted Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Fleetwood, PA Posts: 177	Replacing Lower Control Arm Hello all...I am getting ready to replace the lower control arm on my 65 Mustang. I put a new suspension kit on the fron about ayear ago, but noticed that the left side did not assemble the same as the right - What I mean is that the bolt from the spindle sank all the way down on the ball joint causing it to split open (the boot). I have another arm coming this week and was wondering if there is a proceedure to putting these on. My steering has been sloppy and many noises were coming from the drivers side in the front. I am hoping that this fixes the problem, but somehow feel that I did not install it correctly the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TJ

06-22-2004, 04:49 PM	#2
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Not sure? Not sure I understand completely. The stud from the ball joint is a part of the lower control arm. The lower control arm comes with the ball joint and stud attatched (riveted I think), and not replaceble. That stud goes into th bottom of the spindle (tapered fit). If the stud goes too far into the spindle, then it's the wrong spindle for that ball joint stud I would guess. Rev. __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 06-22-2004 at 05:08 PM..

06-22-2004, 05:42 PM	#3
orlowted Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Fleetwood, PA Posts: 177	Bad lower control arm Rev - That is exactly right...the arm has the ball joint riveted onto it. When I put the stud onto the spindle it went down too far (in ,my opinion) and burst the boot. The other side did not do that and it went down about 1/4 inch less. I got both arms as a set new, so I figure I got a bad arm or a bad spindle. I have already ordered another arm with ball joint attached since it was relatively cheap. I had a sloppy feeling on the drivers side of the front end and some noise coming from that area...not sure what else it could have been since almost everything else is new. I will know as soon as I put the new arm on just by how far it goes down before it stops. I guess it is entirely possible that the spindle hole is worn too. I hope that is not the case, the disk brakes I am planning on getting use the existing drum brake spindles. I will let you know what I find out as soon as the part gets here... TJ

06-24-2004, 05:30 PM	#4
orlowted Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Fleetwood, PA Posts: 177	Replaced one side Hello all - I replaced the drivers side with the new control arm and ball joint...What a difference it made. It stopped where it was supposed to and went together just perfect. I am going to replace the other side now and see if I can get the front end aligned. Then all should be just fine in the front end. TJ

06-24-2004, 08:35 PM	#5
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Last one? That last one must have been the wrong lower control arm or at least the wrong lower ball joint stud. Maybe the studs are different for 6 cyl. vs. 8 cyl. applications? I'm not sure. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

06-27-2004, 04:55 PM	#6
orlowted Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Fleetwood, PA Posts: 177	Not sure what the problem was... Not sure if they were inferior arms, ball joints or both...but I am glad I spent the money and got new ones. I took the car out today and what a massive difference. It holds true to the road and I was able to drive it like a normal car. I am as happy as can be...now I can move on to cosmetics issues. TJ

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