Disk brakes

[jayinpa]

I have a 66 mustang coupe 6cyl. I just bought a set of 79 granada spindles,rotors, and calipers. I know I'll need granada tierod ends. I am putting a 302 in it and a 9 inch w/ disk brakes.

What else will I need to complete the front disk brake set up. I have read about disk/drum master cylinders, but I am going to have disk/disk. Any thing need changed due to putting a v8 in it? Any help would be much appreciated.

JAY

[amartin725]

You can't just change the outer tie rods, unfortunately. You will have to replace everything from the box out (pitman, idler, center link, inner/outer tie rods, sleeves) to V8 status.

Al

[jayinpa]

thanks al

What car do I need all those parts from

jay

[amartin725]

There are 2 ways you can do it.

1) Purchase all the components (except the outer tie rod ends) for you car, in V8 form. Then use 70 Mustang outer tie rods for the Granada.

2) Check out Mustangsteve.com for tie rod adapter sleeves that will allow you to keep the existing steering system and use the Granada spindles.

Personally, I don't like the idea of the adapter sleeves. If your steering system is old and could stand to be replaced, I'd opt for the V8 components. IMO it's much safer that way.

Al

[jayinpa]

Thanks again AL, I found a good web site w/pics and parts list

http://www.geocities.com/2bav8/granada.html


JAY

[Danos]

I did this GVM (Granada, Versailles, Monarch) conversion on my '68 Fastback. I'm not 100% sure about '66 but I think it's an identical process and you'll need the same parts. I located the parts in a bone yard and my total cost was @ $150. The car now stops on a dime and braking improved dramatically. I love the conversion. I can't believe how easy and cheap it was. The spindles will bolt right up to the Mustangs upper and lower ball joints. I purchased new outer tie rod ends for a Granada. The hole where the outer tie rod ends connect to the spindle is larger on the Granada. There's no need to change the adjustment sleeve, unless it's worn out, because the Granada tie rod end fits the Mustangs Sleeve perfectly. I used the Granada Master Cylinder and proportioning valve with rear drum brakes. You should still be able to use this Master Cylinder but you might want to purchase an adjustable proportioning valve if you're going to rear discs.
BTW, If you're going to go through the trouble (really isn't much, I did it all in a Saturday) of the conversion, go ahead a rebuild the rest of the front suspension at the same time. In many cases the old ball joints aren't worth re-using or get damaged when separated from the spindles. Also some minor relocating of the brake hose/hard line fitting may be required.

[David Fulford]

Danos, do you have power brakes? I am just about ready to start my swap. A layoff put the project on hold but I'm about ready to go and the only thing left to iron out is what master cylinder to use. I will have rear drum, front disc, non-power. I have read about people using anything from stock to a maverick master cylinder. What master cylinder would you recomend?

[amartin725]

'74 Maverick, non-power master.

Al

[Danos]

I used a power booster and master cylinder from a early '80's T-bird since the GVMs in the local bone yards had already been stripped of the booster and MC. I've told that the GVM booster and MC will bolt right up. I had to modify my fire wall slightly to make the booster work. I just had to drill 2 holes. One other thing to mention is that not all of the push rods that connect the brake pedal to the booster will accept the brake light switch so study your original and try to find one that's nearly identical. Also, if you do go power, you'll notice that the original non-power brake pedal rests @ 1 to 1 1/2 inches higher than before. The only way I know of to get around this is to get a pedal from Mustang or Falcon originally equipt with P/B. Many of the Mustang parts suppliers out there sell a repro pedal just for these conversions. I just got accustomed to the pedal height. I didn't want to lay out the money when I'm planning to change over from an Auto to T 5 and need to change my pedals anyway. After having said all that, if you have the money, the easiest way is to go with a factory repro booster and MC, but you'll still have to deal with the pedal. Good luck. If I can be anymore help, just let me know.