68 Mustang

dispatcher7 · 11-27-1999, 05:23 PM

I just spoted a 68 Mustang for sale down the road. i know NOTHING about the car, or what it should be. What should I look for when deciding on buying this car? It has rust, and has had work before. Asking $1,000 or best offer.

11-27-1999, 05:53 PM

Check the VIN # and see if its desireable. (big block ect.) but other wise the subframs go bad, the floor shock towers lean, innner fenderwells rust out also, unless your mechanicly gifted or rich don't buy a rust bucket.

------------------
302,vortech s trim,12lbs,edelbrock heads-o ringed,gt 40 upper&lower, mac long tubes, sub frame connectors,50/50 rear, 70/30 front, manual rack,3:55 gears, c4 , best time 10.69@127mph through the flowmasters

dispatcher7 · 11-27-1999, 06:03 PM

maybe I should tell more of the story, my plans. I am looking for a first project car. Something to dive around once and a while, and restore to as origional as possible without going broke. I do not expect it to ever be origional, but to maybe turn a few heads when driving around.
I was looking for information like you indicated, the frame, shock towers and so on. Is there a vin search site to find out what the car should be? Any indications for someone like me as to what the car actually is? What would it take to make the car worth the grand they are asking?

Ron1 · 11-27-1999, 07:22 PM

I am on my third classic restoration, the latest a 68 FB. (4 years) . If you can, lift both front and rear carpet, and run your hands on the bottom side of both doors (open) and look for rot and rust. In the trunk area, down in the storage area at the extreme left and right. Around the taillight, if any rust is present, you would have to weld in a new housing. Under the battery, see if the inner apron is still there. (usually the acid would eat through). Check the headlamp buckets, and see if they are secure. These were cast pieces and the mounting tabs usually broke off. $200.00 each. Run a hose into the cowl in front of the windshield, and check where the water comes out. If it is rusted thru, it will come down on your feet.

If you would like some $$$ ideas on a project like this feel free to e-mail at rfeddd@aol.com

11-27-1999, 05:23 PM	#1
dispatcher7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Schaghticoke, NY 12154 Posts: 2	68 Mustang I just spoted a 68 Mustang for sale down the road. i know NOTHING about the car, or what it should be. What should I look for when deciding on buying this car? It has rust, and has had work before. Asking $1,000 or best offer.

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11-27-1999, 05:53 PM	#2
460MAN Guest Posts: n/a	Check the VIN # and see if its desireable. (big block ect.) but other wise the subframs go bad, the floor shock towers lean, innner fenderwells rust out also, unless your mechanicly gifted or rich don't buy a rust bucket. ------------------ 302,vortech s trim,12lbs,edelbrock heads-o ringed,gt 40 upper&lower, mac long tubes, sub frame connectors,50/50 rear, 70/30 front, manual rack,3:55 gears, c4 , best time 10.69@127mph through the flowmasters

11-27-1999, 06:03 PM	#3
dispatcher7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Schaghticoke, NY 12154 Posts: 2	maybe I should tell more of the story, my plans. I am looking for a first project car. Something to dive around once and a while, and restore to as origional as possible without going broke. I do not expect it to ever be origional, but to maybe turn a few heads when driving around. I was looking for information like you indicated, the frame, shock towers and so on. Is there a vin search site to find out what the car should be? Any indications for someone like me as to what the car actually is? What would it take to make the car worth the grand they are asking?

11-27-1999, 07:22 PM	#4
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	I am on my third classic restoration, the latest a 68 FB. (4 years) . If you can, lift both front and rear carpet, and run your hands on the bottom side of both doors (open) and look for rot and rust. In the trunk area, down in the storage area at the extreme left and right. Around the taillight, if any rust is present, you would have to weld in a new housing. Under the battery, see if the inner apron is still there. (usually the acid would eat through). Check the headlamp buckets, and see if they are secure. These were cast pieces and the mounting tabs usually broke off. $200.00 each. Run a hose into the cowl in front of the windshield, and check where the water comes out. If it is rusted thru, it will come down on your feet. If you would like some $$$ ideas on a project like this feel free to e-mail at rfeddd@aol.com