upcomming project

[bosco]

Hey guys, early next year, im planning on buying a 69-70 mustang fastback. Right now i drive an 87 coupe with a 308 and the mods listed below, when i get this classic, i want to put this motor in it, untill i can find and rebuild a 351w. So i have a few questions. First off, where would i get parts for a 69-70 model stang, like body parts, suspension, exhaust, stuff like that, second, i have a t-5 in my car now, it could stang being replaced, will a t-5 fit in a 69-70 car, should i get a 4 speed, im torn between the 2, any sugestions? and as for exhaust, i want full lenght headers, but what brand do yall recommend, and what kind of susopension mods are recommended. this will be my first time working on a classic, ive been doing a little research online, but im sure i will have plenty of questions, thanks for the help

[bosco]

almost forgot,will the rear end in my car now fit in the 69-70 model? or should i use the one it comes with

[Clark Rodgers]

Well Bosco you sure have alot of questions, I will do my best.
- As far as the engine swap there have been plenty of articles in the mustang magazines written on this, and yes a T5 will fit. Personally I would go with an AOD.
- The body parts, like many others are being reproduced but there is nothing like the NOS. There are several parts places to go to for parts, (Dallas Mustang, Texas Mustang, National Parts Depot, etc...).
- With Full length headers it seems everyone likes the Hooker Super comps.
- Suspension mods include shelby 1 in. upper control arm drop, lowering springs, 1 in. front sway bar and 3/4 or 7/8 rear sway bar, new rear 4 1/2 mid-eye leaf springs and of course replace the front ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, idler arm, etc... The degree of mods hear will depend on what kind of handling you want.
I compliment you on picking my favorite years of mustangs, the main thing to get is a solid car not one that is a rust bucket. These type of repairs are the worst to fix.

[bosco]

well, im going to try my best to find the cleanest body, prepherably no rust and hopfully no dents, im not concerned with a clean paint job and perfect interior, i guess as long as everythign is there, ill understand if its seen better days. I always told myself, that if i ever get a mustang, its going to be an old one and the more research i did, and compared looks ans body styles, ive narrowed it down to those 2 yrs, perfect. I have a mustng magazine that talked about puttign a t-5 in a 69-70, but it was a 2 part articles and i only have the first, which was jsut the rebuilding of the transmssion so i wasnt sure waht kinda of fabricatino was needed. by the way, what does NOS mean, i figured it wasnt nitros, hehe, Ive seen it around but dont know what it stands for.

[bosco]

wow i jsut noticed your from texas too, and sugestions on where i might find a car, i had a friend suggest temple, but i think he said it was a type of junk yard so...

[6T9PONY]

If you're eventually going to a built 351W, I would not use the T5. It'll break soon after because there is a lot of torque being produced by an engine like that. I would either go with a Toploader 4-spd or a C4. C4s are light and fairly durable, with only a few modifications they can be awesome. Get a good shift kit, a good stall converter, new filter, and new fluid and they work great! Very efficient. The AODs are heavier and can't be shifted manually like the C4 can.

Hooker Super Comps are probably about the best header for a street car. But they are VERY expensive. If you have the money, buy them, if not, just get a set of Hedman Hedders. They are right around $100 for full-length headers.

You will definitely want to get new shocks all around, of course, KYB Gas-a-justs are a good choice and are fairly cheap. New leaf springs are a must also. I'd get a heavy duty pair for sure.

As for the front suspension, you'll need to check out what kind of shape everything is in. For sure you should get new polyurethane bushings. If you're going to get into handling and autocross you will need big sway bars, front and back, and you should lower it like Clark Rodgers suggested. Also do all the ball joint replacements and other stuff Clark mentioned.

If the car is going to just be a weekend street cruiser, I would recommend not going with the lowering kit. If you're going to drag race it and not autocross, I would recommend not going with the lowering kit. You'll need the extra clearance for big tires. And you'll also need extra ground clearance for when the front end comes down from the sky and bounces after launch.

I would go with a 9" rear. Gears depend on what tranny/cam you go with.

NOS stands for Nice Old Stuff I believe.

bs

[red]

NOS, New old stock. (usually = expensive)

Believe it or not, there are alot a original Ford replacement parts (NOS) out there for our classics. Some purists will not put repop (reproduction) parts on their classic car.

[69fastback]

Dude Just by urself a 69 with a 351 already in it. That way u don't have to deal with any of the bull of swapping a motor. As far as the suspension go with what kind of car u are going to us it as. for shocks and springs and stuff like that. But defenilty replace all the rubber with polyutherane or polygraphite. I got my suspension kit from PST. U will find there adds in any magaizne. All the places already mentioned are where i shop for my parts. NPD, dallas mustang, mustang plus. When u do buy one though just defenitly go with a 351 already in there and use what ever tranny it already has. Just to make life easier. when u look for things for the motor than just use Summit. I just got hooker super comps and luv them to death. For ur exhaust after u have everything already built just go to a muffler shop and have them build u an exhuast i had mine all cutom made with h pipe for only 290.

[Clark Rodgers]

Bosco, as far as finding a good car you will need to check out local papers, auto trader and hemmings motor news. We are fortunate to be in a fairly rust free environment so try these first. Be prepared to look at alot of dogs that are overpriced, and say that they are specially equiped rare cars. Once you find one make sure you take a friend that will give you an honest opinion and you can throw the Vehicle Identifacation numbers on the board and we can tell you what you have.

My best overall advice is spend a little more up front if you can because everything you fix costs more than you think!

[induction]

sounds like alot of FUN ta me FUN