92GT For 66-68

RAINSTANG · 06-15-2000, 08:03 PM

This is my first post here but may not be my last. I am seriously thinking about selling my 92GT and buying a 1966-68GT. I know my 92 inside & out but don't know exactly what to look for in a 66-68. If I had the resources it would be a GT350 but I don't so a matching numbers, 2+2 with a 4spd is the target car. Just looking for any tips on the "little things" I should be looking for. I had a code chart at one time but lost it. Any & all help will be greatly appreciated since I am really pumped about stepping back in time.

hehhehmule · 06-16-2000, 04:21 PM

I'm assuming you mean engine codes. Just remember "You can have you're CAKES but you can't E them"
C-289-2v
A-289-4v
K-289-HiPo
E-There is no E code, thus you can't E them
S-390.

These are applicable from 65-68 with exceptions like 260's, early 289's and 302's(F&J) in 68.You may also disregard the C-codes, as I think you had to be a 4V to be a GT, but I'm not 100% certian. It also doesn't include W or R codes which you most likely won't encounter.

Check out the floors, that's the worst problem area. If it's a 4lug wheel, it's not a GT. It should also have front disc brakes.

red · 06-16-2000, 05:38 PM

It is pretty hard to find an early mustang without holes rusted through the floor pans. This is not a really big problem. A rusted out cowl usually causes it. Pour a glass of water down each side of the cowl and see how much of it ends up by the drivers/passengers feet.

Rusty shock towers are the most notorious problem. There are troughs behind the front wheels right about where the alignment adjustment screws are. These troughs collect dirt, hold water, and rust out the shock towers.

Also avoid cars with rusty frame rails.

Replacing the floor pans, shock towers, and frame rails are all pricey.

Welcome to the classics board,
-JON

06-15-2000, 08:03 PM	#1
RAINSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Portland, OR, USA Posts: 98	92GT For 66-68 This is my first post here but may not be my last. I am seriously thinking about selling my 92GT and buying a 1966-68GT. I know my 92 inside & out but don't know exactly what to look for in a 66-68. If I had the resources it would be a GT350 but I don't so a matching numbers, 2+2 with a 4spd is the target car. Just looking for any tips on the "little things" I should be looking for. I had a code chart at one time but lost it. Any & all help will be greatly appreciated since I am really pumped about stepping back in time.

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06-16-2000, 04:21 PM	#2
hehhehmule Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Nashville TN Posts: 608	I'm assuming you mean engine codes. Just remember "You can have you're CAKES but you can't E them" C-289-2v A-289-4v K-289-HiPo E-There is no E code, thus you can't E them S-390. These are applicable from 65-68 with exceptions like 260's, early 289's and 302's(F&J) in 68.You may also disregard the C-codes, as I think you had to be a 4V to be a GT, but I'm not 100% certian. It also doesn't include W or R codes which you most likely won't encounter. Check out the floors, that's the worst problem area. If it's a 4lug wheel, it's not a GT. It should also have front disc brakes.

06-16-2000, 05:38 PM	#3
red Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Millburn, NJ Posts: 310	It is pretty hard to find an early mustang without holes rusted through the floor pans. This is not a really big problem. A rusted out cowl usually causes it. Pour a glass of water down each side of the cowl and see how much of it ends up by the drivers/passengers feet. Rusty shock towers are the most notorious problem. There are troughs behind the front wheels right about where the alignment adjustment screws are. These troughs collect dirt, hold water, and rust out the shock towers. Also avoid cars with rusty frame rails. Replacing the floor pans, shock towers, and frame rails are all pricey. Welcome to the classics board, -JON