about to start the mods!

[Metal396]

well, i have everything i need for the 4 barrel conversion... intake (edelbrock performer), carb (holley 600cfm vacuum secondaries), all hte bolts, studs, gaskets, fuel lines, filter, and silicon... hopefully i will start tomorrow...

ive been told many different things about removing the distributor, and that seems like its going to be the trickiest part of it all. do i have to be extremely careful like everybody says? or should it come out and go in pretty easy? i have the instructions and it sounds simple, and yes i do know to index it properly.

i will be taking pictures and i will show them later when i get them developed. ooh this ought to open up alot of horsepower and another 2 or 3 thousand rpm! The 2 barrel on my car is pretty much broken.... it pops and stops letting gas in every time i open throttle alittle more, and sometimes it squirts on and off really fast, rumbling the car. That motorcraft carb is a POS, and i will never ever use another 2 barrel again. Its dead weight.

well dunno what else to say, so ill cya all later.. and hopefully by thursday i will be able to drive my car again! and actually go semi-fast

[71grande]

Good luck, and Im jealous. Maybe in a year or so ill be able to spend time on my Mustang, but soon she will be getting parked for a while.

Later everyone.

A tip of the ole Stetson
Mike

[hobgoblin351]

Good luck Metal< but jeez I thought you put the manifold and carb on already!! lol The performer and a 600 crb is a good choice for a 351c-2v. With the smaller 2v heads you wont be reving past 6000 anyway. Too many people want to put big manifolds/ carbs on engines that dont need them.
As far as pulling the distributer, it's not all that hard. You already know to index it, and it should pull right out with out much trouble. If it does seem stuck do not just try good old brute force to yank it out. You could be stuck on the oil pump shaft! You really dont want that to fall into the engine! lol Good luck

[Metal396]

ok i wanna start working on taking off the vacuum hoses and labeling them right now , cause theres SO much stuff in the way , that i gotta get to first before unbolting the carb then itnake itself... WHERE DO I START!? ITS SO CLUDDERED! and the facuum ports on the intake that stick out to the side, do i take the ones out of the stock manifold and put them into the aftermarket? I dont know what theyre called , sorry..

i wanna get thsi done but i have nobody with more experience to help me out at all... and what tool should i use to cut my exhisting fuel line? without pinching it shut... oh man wish u guys could help me out with this right now... i hate workin alone... just dont wanna screw anything up! hehe

Thanks for your feedback!!!

[gofastmercury]

The tips I have:

Mark all those vac lines, don't trust your memory( even if you are 16!)
Try to put crank at 0 degs. And look at which way your distrib. is pointing.

And good luck, but if it doesn't fire right away, don't be discuraged, There's always something that isn't hooked up right. Just call it getting experence, and don't worry about it.

[hobgoblin351]

Yeah I remember when I first did this. Trust what you know then ask for help on what you dont. The main vacum line, the one that comes out of the tree that's on the firewall. It's the big one. It goes to the back of the manifold. It can also go to the back of the carb, for starters it dosent really matter. But, you have to plug up the one that's not used. Pretty much anything that come off the stock setup that will bolt up to the new manifold should be done. It might look like a mess, dont get overwhelmed. This is where I usually end up with alot of spare parts! lol More important than the vacume lines (you can always sort that out later) is making sure you use the intake manifold galley pan, and seal it up correctly. You should have an accurate torque wrtench, and follow the right sequence when tightening the bolts down. DONT FORGET TO MARK THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR AND THE DISTRIBUTOR!!! Double check your work and you should be fine. Oh and RTFB Read The ****in Book good luck

[Metal396]

well so far ive read ALL about the vacuum and EGR system, and a bunch of other stuff on the emission system, in my shop manual... learned alot, and i used the diagram and labeled with stiky tabs, EVERY hose and what not, half of which i wont be able to use, but i will get back to that later. i pulled all my plug wires and labeld which cylinder theyre to , but havent taken of the cap.

I also disconnected all the carb linkage, and the throttle cable bracket, i took off and painted silver to match the intake manifold. i have it hooked onto the new manifold already now, and it doesnt look bad, certainly better than its previous black/rust colors lol. and i labeled and put the pin holding the transmission kickdown lever, to the carb linkage, in a baggy, so i for sure wont lose it.

One of my "Normally Open Selinoid Valves" that was on the drivers side valve cover, i took off after removing the vacuum lines, labeld the sticky again and put it in a plastic baggy...

and thats about it till tomorrow.... when i get home from school im going to remove the fuel line to the carb, and the "Crankcase Vent hose" from the carb, and then remove the carb. I wont be able to do the rest till thursday cause i have work tomorrow night , but i will hopefully get all the rest done by thursday night.

Oh and about the vacuum lines, do i now just hook a single vacuum line straight to the port on the bottom of the holley carb? thats where the previous owner told me to hook the advance can to. if not, whats an alternate route system to put thevacuum lines in now that the EGR system will be eliminated? Thanks.A

Tom

[Metal396]

Nevermind the last portion of my previous post, i figured out what to do with the vacuum lines... Im going to bypass the spark delay valve and the Normally open solenoid valve, and put a line straight from my advance can to the PVS valve. The PVS valve gets its vacuum frrom the intake manifold, and the carburator vacuum ports.

i read up on how the SPARK DELAY VALVE and NORMALLY OPEN SOLENOID VALVE work, and all they do is this:

NORMALLY OPEN SOLENOID VALVE- only allows vacuum to pass when transmission is in 3rd gear, It uses electricity to sense and close when the tranny is in 1st or 2nd gear.

SPARK DELAY VALVE- Slows down vacuum, it makes vacuum gradually increase instead of increasing at speeds unblocked.

Both those things were blocking my advance can, and are probably a big problem why my car lacked power in acceleration, hehe i just didnt see it coming because i could rev up in neutral and the timing would advance..... tricky technology i didnt know existed.... I SUGGEST WE ALL READ THE SHOP MANUALS!!!!! hehehehe...

The other end of the vacuum lines, with the EGR will just be gone.. no EGR on my new intake anyways... that port on my carb is already blocked anyways.

Oh the powers of reading!

Tom