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Old 06-24-1999, 09:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
Stryfe
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Default Adding HP to '70 351 Windsor 2V engine?

Requesting information on an economical way to add HP to my '70 Mach1 351 Windsor 2V engine. Things I would like to change are: headers, 2V to a 4V, cam, torque converter, timing chain, etc. Any suggestions on what I need to do to get more HP and good brand parts to get. I would really appreciate any and all help. Thanx to those who replied to my previous add.
Thanx from a mechanically UN-inclined person.
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Old 06-24-1999, 10:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
MEDIK418
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The best way to make horsepower in any engine is to make it breathe. Intake, heads and exhaust are where you need to concentrate. First you need to decide honestly where you want the horsepower to happen. Do you want good streetable horses or do you want a 8 thousand rpm screamer. Any intake manufacturer can supply you with a quality manifold. A four bbl carb in the 600-650 CFM range should be plenty for a street driven 351. Headers and a good exhaust in the 2.5" diameter range are a good place to start. As far as cams go, the sky is the limit but once you decide where you want the power the cam manufacturers can help you decide what you need. If money allows it go for some better flowing heads. There are several on the market in a wide array of prices. Get a good ignition also. MSD makes a good system that will add anywhere from 10 to 20 horses (they say). I can say from personal experience the MSD's make a big difference. As for torque convertors? Anywhere from 2000 to 2800 rpm is a good range for street driven cars. A good place to start is go to Summit's web page and order their catalog. They have a tech department that can help you with ANY questions you have about equipment and it's application. Not trying to advertise for them but they've been extremely helpful to me on the last two projects.

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Father to two Teenage boys and three Mustangs. 71 Mach 1, 85 LX trunk, and one '89 GT
Someday. . . It's gonna be Dad's turn to build one.
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Old 06-28-1999, 05:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
66fastback
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I posted this once already, but it got wiped...so here's the short version.

Let me start by saying that medik's advice is right on. You MUST start out with an honest appraisal of the car's intended use. The intended operating rpm will decide most of your course for you.

Let me ammend what medik said right here. There are two kinds of engines that you can build...one with stock heads, and one with aftermarket heads. If you plan on staying with the stock heads, then you had better plan on staying under 5500 rpm. You must select the rest of your parts accordingly. A dual plane intake manifold, 600 cfm carb, 1-5/8" headers, and a mild camshaft--less than 225 degrees at .05 lift.

Follow that recipe and you'll have matching parts that work together and make the most power with the stock heads.

If you intend on building a real screamer....then you'll need to upgrade to bigger parts throughout, and purchase some killer heads. At this point, you have to match your components to whatever rpm range your trying to reach. Be aware that the further you try to push the engine past 6000 rpm, the more $$$$ you must dish out in an effort to hold it together.

Regardless of what kind of engine you are trying to build, the point here that we are both trying to make is MATCH YOUR PARTS. Don't try to build a high rpm screamer with stock heads, or a 4500 rpm torque monster with a single-plane intake and 750 cfm double -pumper. You will have parts that don't work well together and you wind up with a dog.

And don't forget to add rear gears to the car. Even a stock engine will respond well to a set of gears. If your building for a torque type engine ( fun to drive daily ) get some 3.50's or 3.73's. If you intend to do the high rpm theatrics ( bracket racer ), you'll probably need some 4.11's or 4.30's.

If your strapped for cash, then don't even consider building for a lot of rpm's. Build the more streetable torque style engine. don't forget to include a good timing chain set and oil pump in your budget. A lot of first timers don't realize that if you change the cam, your gonna be paying for new lifters and springs also.

For what it's worth...I would start with the rear gears, they give you a good kick right off the bat, no other mods needed. The ignition would be good next. Then exhaust, intake/carb and cam at one time. Easier to do the cam when you already have the engine part way torn down.

[This message has been edited by 66fastback (edited 06-28-1999).]
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Old 06-28-1999, 10:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
Clark Rodgers
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Man, I hope you get a print out of all that! It all sounds good and I'll just throw in one only because I've been there.As long as your not building a monster and need a carb. over 600cfm stay with an autolite 4V, I purchased one from pony carbs and love it! I have a 69 351W and the best part is not all the adjustments and work my Holley needed.And always keep in mind that most people over-carb. there engines and think more cfm's the better.
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Old 06-29-1999, 01:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
66fastback
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Hey Clark, you made a smart move there. I like the old stock carbs, and I personally can't stand Holley unless your racing your car. I always had to re-tune my Holley's everytime the wind changed or a shadow fell across my hood. I've been using a 500 cfm Edelbrock--works great on a 289--and haven't had to touch an adjustment screw in nearly two years. Not bad since I drive 15,000 a year on my Stang.
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Old 06-29-1999, 03:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
Clark Rodgers
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Stryfe, there's a good recomendation on Elderbrock carb's I always thought that there manifolds were kick ass and now it's good to hear that the carbs are doing good. Now there's a good place to start if you want to get into some engine improvements, you might consider one of those elderbrock kits.They include a new intake,carb,cam and that takes alot of the guess work trying to match all these up.Just another thought to try and make it simpler.
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