Battery in the Trunk

rtz · 02-21-2001, 09:48 PM

If I move the battery to the trunk, will I have any problems with the alternator charging it or any starter problems due to the long cable putting such a drain on it?

Where can I get a battery cable at that is long enough?

What is the best way to bolt down the battery in the trunk?

dinomite · 02-21-2001, 10:08 PM

I as well was wondering about this....is there a kit thats reccomended? How hard is it? Are there good instructions on how to do it (where to route cables)?

MTU 50 · 02-21-2001, 10:59 PM

I'm thinking about doing this too. My biggest problem is losing the cargo space back there. I know a battery isn't that big, but when you have all of you junk packed in the car headed up to school it gets pretty tight back there.

I have older power pulleys and I don't get a good charge to begin with. If I could find my damn Electronics book I could give you exact numbers, but I really don't think you'll notice any charging problems. I'm not going to be too worried once I get a stock diameter pulley to put back on. If and when I relocate the battery I'll ask members here and on other boards what kit they've used and how it worked for them. And as usual price will be a factor when choosing a particular kit.

I also plan on getting an A/C eliminator kit.

------------------
1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, March pulleys, 3-chamber(the left one fell off-NO time+No Money=College), FMS c-springs, and KYBs

ed1371 · 02-21-2001, 11:44 PM

I have the cheap summit kit (the one with the cheap plastic case)

Had the same battery in my trunk for 2 years, no charging problems. My cable is ran along the same route as the fuel lines. The cable came with the kit. The kit came with the hardware needed to bolt everything into place and it holds it securely.

I have a vert and it takes away some of the trunk space but not too bad...nothing like my nitrous bottle! (I really have NO trunk space and can only fit my convertable top boot and a set of jumper cables back there!

302 LX Eric · 02-22-2001, 10:00 AM

Is there a better kit out there - other than the Summitt kit? I plan on doing this in the next couple of weeks so any recommendations would be great. Also, what is the proper gauge of cable to use?

Thanks, E

------------------
1991 5.0 LX Coupe -37,800 miles

13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60'

Pro-Charger D-1SC on the way!!!

tra9379 · 02-22-2001, 10:31 AM

I was thinking about buying the summit kit too, but what do you need to do, so you can pass inspection at the track?

ed1371 · 02-22-2001, 11:25 AM

moroso kit is NHRA and IHRA legal, costs 91.95 for the box, and cables are sold seperately for 104.95

summit kit is 42.95 w/cables

MiracleMax · 02-22-2001, 11:57 AM

When you mount your battery in the trunk, be sure and run a ground all the way to the front again. On efi cars, its essential that the computer is grounded properly. If your going to kit bash (buy the box and do your own cables) then go up a gauge or two in cable size. Pro-M's site has a note or two on mounting the battery in the trunk.

Forcedpower · 02-22-2001, 12:01 PM

I bought the Taylor kit for my car it comes with everything you need. Its a nice aluminum box. I paid $110 for mine its a nice kit.

autoX · 02-23-2001, 02:57 PM

I am also planning on doing this. A set of jumper cables will work nicely as battery cables I think (well, not with the clamps of course!)

n2ojunkie · 02-24-2001, 05:07 AM

you shouldnt have any charging problems rom moving the bat to the trunk if you do it correctly. ok first you need to use a min of 2 gage cable. 0 gage is beter. you dont need to run a ground from the bat all the way to the front of the car. that just dumb. you do need to run a good ground cable from the bat to the body of the car. the best way to do that is to have a bolt welded to the body in the trunk. then you have to put a ground cable from the block to the body in the engine compartment. a welded bolt works really well hear. a muffler shop sould be able to weld these for you for really cheap. now if you goto nhra sanctioned tracks then you need a nhra approved bat box. if not then you just need to make shrue the bat if firmly secured to the floor of the trunk.

[This message has been edited by n2ojunkie (edited 02-24-2001).]

stanger8172 · 02-24-2001, 08:58 AM

My bud has the Summit kit and has not affected his alternator and starter. He only paid $43 and for that you get everything(neg. and pos. cables, mounting kit, instructions)

rtz · 02-25-2001, 11:54 PM

I'm going to put it in the back left so that my cable will be shorter. Is that just as good as putting it on the back right of the car?

8850 · 02-26-2001, 05:18 AM

Here is how I mounted mine. Works great. It is the Summit kit. Be sure to use a large ground wire going to your engine up front too. I have a wire going from my engine to my front sway bar braket.

http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/battsetup.jpg

------------------
88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph,dyno= =http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/mustdyno.jpg

rtz · 03-02-2001, 07:34 PM

Where can I get that type of wire at in bulk?

blue00gt · 03-02-2001, 07:47 PM

Putting it in the back right is best for traction because you are sitting in the front left seat, which takes a little weight off the back right tire.

rtz · 03-09-2001, 01:33 AM

To those of you that have the battery mounted in the trunk, how did you route the wire back up to the solenoid? Did you run it through the interior or under the car? And if you ran it under the car, how did you fasten it to the underside?

Ron1 · 03-09-2001, 01:43 AM

A couple of things...1. In order to be NHRA legal, the hold down rods have to be mounted (welded to) or go thru the frame rails. 2. If you use a dry cell like an Optima or the Interstate Battery equivalent, you don't need a box. You can buy the number 1 cable at any Napa or Thrifty supply house. Easiest under the car along the frame rails with cable tie downs. Take the negative side to the frame rail as well. Do not just bolt it to the body. Not a good ground.

Ron

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-09-2001).]

LX XLR8R · 03-09-2001, 02:45 AM

i ran 1/0 gauge welding cable witch IMHO is the best stuff out there..we have run that gauge wire to a section of body in the back and run cars with no problems..thier is no need to run a ground up front as long as you have a good ground out back..welding cable is supurioir because of 3 main reaons
-1..its extreme flexibality
-2..its restance to heat(its made for shorting out)
-3..its extreamly conductive(has thousands of little strands of wire in it)

------------------
1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch

03-09-2001, 10:12 AM

I have a roller right now that was doing 9's. The battery is mounted in the trunk but it's kind of just sitting there. There is a on/off switch next to the parachute that controls the current in the car. It's a pretty cool setup as the line are run along the subframe connectors. I have to order the summit kit to keep it from floppin around

02-21-2001, 09:48 PM	#1
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	Battery in the Trunk If I move the battery to the trunk, will I have any problems with the alternator charging it or any starter problems due to the long cable putting such a drain on it? Where can I get a battery cable at that is long enough? What is the best way to bolt down the battery in the trunk?

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02-21-2001, 10:08 PM	#2
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	I as well was wondering about this....is there a kit thats reccomended? How hard is it? Are there good instructions on how to do it (where to route cables)?

02-21-2001, 10:59 PM	#3
MTU 50 GOT TORQUE ???? Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Hudson, Michigan, USA Posts: 689	I'm thinking about doing this too. My biggest problem is losing the cargo space back there. I know a battery isn't that big, but when you have all of you junk packed in the car headed up to school it gets pretty tight back there. I have older power pulleys and I don't get a good charge to begin with. If I could find my damn Electronics book I could give you exact numbers, but I really don't think you'll notice any charging problems. I'm not going to be too worried once I get a stock diameter pulley to put back on. If and when I relocate the battery I'll ask members here and on other boards what kit they've used and how it worked for them. And as usual price will be a factor when choosing a particular kit. I also plan on getting an A/C eliminator kit. ------------------ 1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, March pulleys, 3-chamber(the left one fell off-NO time+No Money=College), FMS c-springs, and KYBs

02-21-2001, 11:44 PM	#4
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	I have the cheap summit kit (the one with the cheap plastic case) Had the same battery in my trunk for 2 years, no charging problems. My cable is ran along the same route as the fuel lines. The cable came with the kit. The kit came with the hardware needed to bolt everything into place and it holds it securely. I have a vert and it takes away some of the trunk space but not too bad...nothing like my nitrous bottle! (I really have NO trunk space and can only fit my convertable top boot and a set of jumper cables back there!

02-22-2001, 10:00 AM	#5
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	Is there a better kit out there - other than the Summitt kit? I plan on doing this in the next couple of weeks so any recommendations would be great. Also, what is the proper gauge of cable to use? Thanks, E ------------------ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe -37,800 miles 13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60' Pro-Charger D-1SC on the way!!!

02-22-2001, 10:31 AM	#6
tra9379 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Burbank, IL Posts: 249	I was thinking about buying the summit kit too, but what do you need to do, so you can pass inspection at the track?

02-22-2001, 11:25 AM	#7
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	moroso kit is NHRA and IHRA legal, costs 91.95 for the box, and cables are sold seperately for 104.95 summit kit is 42.95 w/cables

02-22-2001, 11:57 AM	#8
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	When you mount your battery in the trunk, be sure and run a ground all the way to the front again. On efi cars, its essential that the computer is grounded properly. If your going to kit bash (buy the box and do your own cables) then go up a gauge or two in cable size. Pro-M's site has a note or two on mounting the battery in the trunk.

02-22-2001, 12:01 PM	#9
Forcedpower Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: Charlottesville, Va, USA Posts: 328	I bought the Taylor kit for my car it comes with everything you need. Its a nice aluminum box. I paid $110 for mine its a nice kit.

02-23-2001, 02:57 PM	#10
autoX Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 113	I am also planning on doing this. A set of jumper cables will work nicely as battery cables I think (well, not with the clamps of course!)

02-24-2001, 05:07 AM	#11
n2ojunkie Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: san diego, ca Posts: 17	you shouldnt have any charging problems rom moving the bat to the trunk if you do it correctly. ok first you need to use a min of 2 gage cable. 0 gage is beter. you dont need to run a ground from the bat all the way to the front of the car. that just dumb. you do need to run a good ground cable from the bat to the body of the car. the best way to do that is to have a bolt welded to the body in the trunk. then you have to put a ground cable from the block to the body in the engine compartment. a welded bolt works really well hear. a muffler shop sould be able to weld these for you for really cheap. now if you goto nhra sanctioned tracks then you need a nhra approved bat box. if not then you just need to make shrue the bat if firmly secured to the floor of the trunk. [This message has been edited by n2ojunkie (edited 02-24-2001).]

02-24-2001, 08:58 AM	#12
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	My bud has the Summit kit and has not affected his alternator and starter. He only paid $43 and for that you get everything(neg. and pos. cables, mounting kit, instructions)

02-25-2001, 11:54 PM	#13
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	I'm going to put it in the back left so that my cable will be shorter. Is that just as good as putting it on the back right of the car?

02-26-2001, 05:18 AM	#14
8850 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Sugarland, TX USA Posts: 161	Here is how I mounted mine. Works great. It is the Summit kit. Be sure to use a large ground wire going to your engine up front too. I have a wire going from my engine to my front sway bar braket. http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/battsetup.jpg ------------------ 88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph,dyno= =http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/mustdyno.jpg

03-02-2001, 07:34 PM	#15
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	Where can I get that type of wire at in bulk?

03-02-2001, 07:47 PM	#16
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	Putting it in the back right is best for traction because you are sitting in the front left seat, which takes a little weight off the back right tire.

03-09-2001, 01:33 AM	#17
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	To those of you that have the battery mounted in the trunk, how did you route the wire back up to the solenoid? Did you run it through the interior or under the car? And if you ran it under the car, how did you fasten it to the underside?

03-09-2001, 01:43 AM	#18
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	A couple of things...1. In order to be NHRA legal, the hold down rods have to be mounted (welded to) or go thru the frame rails. 2. If you use a dry cell like an Optima or the Interstate Battery equivalent, you don't need a box. You can buy the number 1 cable at any Napa or Thrifty supply house. Easiest under the car along the frame rails with cable tie downs. Take the negative side to the frame rail as well. Do not just bolt it to the body. Not a good ground. Ron [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-09-2001).]

03-09-2001, 02:45 AM	#19
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	i ran 1/0 gauge welding cable witch IMHO is the best stuff out there..we have run that gauge wire to a section of body in the back and run cars with no problems..thier is no need to run a ground up front as long as you have a good ground out back..welding cable is supurioir because of 3 main reaons -1..its extreme flexibality -2..its restance to heat(its made for shorting out) -3..its extreamly conductive(has thousands of little strands of wire in it) ------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch

03-09-2001, 10:12 AM	#20
stroker393 Guest Posts: n/a	I have a roller right now that was doing 9's. The battery is mounted in the trunk but it's kind of just sitting there. There is a on/off switch next to the parachute that controls the current in the car. It's a pretty cool setup as the line are run along the subframe connectors. I have to order the summit kit to keep it from floppin around