Best Way To Get Some 'power'

[SCHOONER]

HI GUYS

HERE'S THE DEAL:

I GOT SOME OIL LEAKING IN BACK OF MY INTAKE MANIFLOW TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE 289 ENGINE I HAVE.
WITH A DOUBLE BARREL CARB ON IT.

I THINK THE OIL IS COMING FROM THE MANIFLOW.

ANYWAY(S) . . . LOL

I NEED SOME OF YOUR GOOD SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CHANGING THINGS AND GETTING JUST A LITTLE MORE POWER

I HAVE A '66 CONVERT. WITH A 289 IN IT. IT HAS A 3 SPEED TRANNY IN IT.
WITH A SINGLE EXHAUST.

I WANT TO IN THE NEAR FUTURE, BUY NEW PARTS TO GIVE ME JUST A LITTLE POWER.
PROVIDING MY WIFE ALLOWS ME TO SPENT SOME OF 'HER $ $ $ "

WHAT DO GENTLEMEN SUGGEST AS FAR AS BRAND NAME PARTS.

I NEED A NEW MANIFLOW: WANT CHROME OF COURSE ~ WHAT BRAND DO YOU GENTLEMEN RECOMM. IS ALUMIUNM BETTER THAN CHROME STEEL
NEED A TWO BARREL CARB: WHICH ONE
NEED A 4 SPEED TRANNY: REBUILT OR NEW ? AND WHERE I LIVE IN LAS VEGAS
NEED DUAL EXHAUST: WITH A THROATY SOUND NOT TINY. WHAT COMPANY DO YOU RECOMM.

WELL, GENTLEMEN I BELIEVE THAT IT

ANYTHING ELSE YOU THINK I MIGHT NEED PLEASE DON'T HESITATE
TO TELL ME

WELL GENTLEMEN I THINK THAT'S IT

I'M SOMEWHAT OF AN OL' MAN (65) BUT I STILL CAN GET INTO TROUBLE. USE TO BOX AND STILL THINK I'M 17 AND IN THE GOLDEN GLOVES . . . LOL

GOD BLESS YOU ALL THAT HAVE HELPED ME IN THE PAST AND IN THE COMING FUTURE.

SCHOONER

[bmxmon]

For a manifold I would go with the edelbrock rpm air gap. For a carb go with a holley 4 barrel. Im not sure exactly what size you would want, probably somewhere between 550-600cfm. Definately invest in dual exhaust, an exhaust place can bend you some, go with flowmaster mufflers. I would think their delta series would sound pretty good. Instead of going with a 4 speed, just go to a 5 speed. There are alot of articles about that swap on the net. Check out mustangsplus.com, they sell all the parts and probably have an article on it there. Rear gears are always a good idea. Good luck.

[Gearhead999]

I agree with bmxmon pretty much, except I would use an Elderbrock manifold and carb. 500-600 cfm for sure. The Elderbrock is an easier carb to tune on the street and is more driver/user friendly.

Manifolds-----they really don't make chrome manifolds. They are either aluminum or cast iron. Of course you want aluminum. Now you get that natural finish or polished, which makes it very shiny and looks like chrome. Only problem with a polished manifold is that it will ALWAYS need polishing to keep it shiny. That is not an easy task to do, because of all the nooks and crannies of an intake manifolds design. Aluminum oxidizes naturally.

Get a local muffler shop to make your exhaust and use Flowmaster mufflers.

Also, on the transmission, once again I agree with bmxmon about going with a 5 speed instead of a 4 speed. The swap will cost about the same. There are abunch more take out 5 speeds around then vintage 4 speeds. Also, the 5 speed had O/D.

Replacing the intake will/should take care of the oil leak from the rear of the intake manifold. That is a popular leak on the 289/302/351 engines. When you install, or have installed, the new aluminum intake, do it without the end gaskets. Just use RTV instead. Much better seal.

You'll have to handle the "wife" end yourself. Can't help you there. My wife has given up on me, when it comes to cars, etc. I've been in the car business all of our 27 years together. And before that too.

Keep us posted on your progress.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

Hmmmm...

One thing about power, it is never enough...

That said... Go mild.

Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM manifold...
Holley 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb... (or Edelbrock 600)


Headers... well, I'm going to get serious with you here... Fitting a set of headers in most any vehicle can prove to be quite the task. Judging by your previous posts, I'm not sure you want to try tackling that yourself...

That said, a set of headers along with a dual exhaust no bigger than 2 1/4", with an H-pipe. Summit sells some good kits that are relatively inexpensive... but a custom job, so long as it is done right (I've seen a real hack job in my life that has made me forever cautious of muffler shops... cough ... monro...cough...).

As far as the dressup... I've always like Ford's dress up kit... complete with covers, wire harnesses, and cool valve cover wingbolts... 12 years ago, you could pick them up for under $100... haven't checked them out lately.

[SCHOONER]

Hi Bmxmon

Why did you suggest the; EDELBROCK RPM AIR GAP?
As far as the carb. isn't the 4brl Holly goin' to boost-up my gas consumtion?
Bmxmon, what does it mean: 550-600 cfm's on the carburetor ?

I'm trying to learn and listen to you guys. Just be patience with me please.
You have all the experiences and I'd be a fool not to listen and take your suggestions.

Now, about the 5speed instead of the 4speed. Don't I have to change the gear ratio in the rear? You tell me.
I believe from what I've reading that an 9in. rear is best. But I have to make some decisions about the gear ratio. Oh well, all in good time and you guys helping me.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY

SCHOONER

I've heard of Flowmaster Mufflers

[SCHOONER]

Hi Gearhead999

I just wrote bmxmon and have some of the same questions if you don't mind please.

Now, about the ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD PLEASE!
WHAT DID YOU MEAN WHEN YOU SAID, " . . . ALUMINUM OXIDIZES NATURALLY?
Does that mean; it get DULL NATURALLY OVER TIME?

Again Gearhead999 please be patience with this young 65yr. older.

I NEVER BOUGHT A TRANSMISSION BEFORE: So when you say "SWAP" do you mean I give 'em my tranny and I pay or not pay for the 5 speed? Please explain.

Boy let me tell you guys something ~ YOU SURE KNOW A HELL OF A LOT ABOUT MUSTANGS AND CAR FIXIN' MAN YOU GUYS ARE GOOOOOOD ! I'm not just blowing smoke I tell it like it is.

Now back to teaching me please.
You said, " When you install or have it installed (i'm goin' to do it myself) the new aluminum intake, do it without the end gaskets. Just use RTV instead. Much better seal.

O.K. Gearhead, take me to school. WHAT INSTALL THE INTAKE WITHOUT GASKETS!!!
AND WHAT IS " RTV " MEAN PLEASE.

As far as the wife is concerned, man she's GREAT. She says; " Go buy whatever it takes to make you happy with the mustang. You've worked hard all you life."
AND THAT'S THE TRUTH GUY.

GOD is so good to me ~ for what reason its beyond me.

Hey Gearhead999 THANK YOU AGAIN SO MUCH FOR ALL YOU HELP.

GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY

SCHOONER

[SCHOONER]

Hi Phillyfrombirth

IT'S ME AGAIN ~ WHAT A PAIN I MUST BE. AND I THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO TEACH ME WHAT TO DO WITH MY '66 'STANG ALONG WITH THE OTHER GREAT GUYS WHO ARE HELPING ME THRU THIS LEARNING PROCESS.

NOW! HERE WE GO.

PHILLY, you memtion the Holly cfm vacuum secondary carb or Edelbrock 600
I'm going to look 'em up on the web.
But what do you mean about secondary carb ? ? ? Is that my second choice?

Now here's one I've been trying to understand about carburetors. What's the difference between a ELECTRONIC CHOKE as opposed to a MANUAL CHOKED CARBURETOR ? ? ?

What one is better or better for my V8, 289cid ?

On the HEADERS NO BIGGER THAN 2 1/4 is that the size of the muffler pipes ? ? ?
Please explain.

So I gather that the perfect fit will match all together well, when I ready to install the intake and the carb.?
I have help thought putting all this together from a fellow club Mustang member. He's got a lift. ( GOD IS GOOD )

AGAIN THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME IN WRITING AND POSTING YOUR REPLIES ABOUT MY " TAKE ME TO AUTO SCHOOL MESSAGES "

THANKS PHILLY
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY

SCHOONER

[SCHOONER]

HI

GUYS CAN YOU TELL ME IF THIS SYSTEM WITH GO INTO MY '66 MUSTANG

I HAVE A V8 ~ 289cid WITH SINGLE EXHAUST SYSTEM.


Brand: Magnaflow
Stainless Steel Cat-Back System, 4 x 9 x 14" Muffler, 2.5" Tubing, Dual Side Exit, 3.5" Polished Stainless Tip, Mandrel-Bent, Improved Horsespower And Torque, Lifetime Warranty,.


Price: $438.98



SCHOONER

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

Electric chokes are the way to go if at all possible...

"Vacuum secondary" vs. "Manual secondary"

A "vacuum secondary" carburetor uses a vacuum signal from the engine to engage the 2 barrels of your carburetor that are not used during normal acceleration.

A "manual secondary" has linkage that "kicks in" the 2 barrels of your carburetor that are not used during normal acceleration.

The "vacuum secondary", I found, to be better on gas and give as good if not better power for a mild engine.

2 1/4" is the MAXIMUM size that I would recommend for your exhaust pipe/muffler size for a dual system.

Your headers, should you go that route should be either 1 1/2" or 1 5/8" as measured at the head... The "collector", which is the end of the header that connects to the exhaust will be about 3"... the "reducer" is the part that bolts on to the "collector" and reduces the size of the pipe to the desired exhaust size, which is where I recommend a size of 2 1/4" or smaller...


http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...9&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...+-59014+-42594

[bmxmon]

I recommended the rpm air gap because its a proven, great performing intake manifold. Im pretty sure you can get it in polished. Yes, you will consume more gas with a 4 barrel, but its really the only way to go with a performance application. I dont believe you can even get a performance intake for a 2 barrel carb. The 550-600 cfm means the size of the carburetor. They range all over the place, from 300cfm to over 1000cfm. Too small and you lose performance, too much and you lose idle quality. A edelbrock would probably be a better choice over the holley for you, they are alot easier to tune. You will not have to change the gears in your rear end for a new trans. To instal a 5 speed, (a t-5 from a 87-93 mustang) you will need: a new flywheel and clutch, transmission crossmember, clutch cable, transmission yoke, and to have your driveshaft shortened. Of course you will also need the transmission! I believe you can use your old clutch pedal, or you might have to switch over to a 71 mustangs clutch pedal i believe. (not exactly sure if you have to and what year if you do) As far as that exhaust, im not too sure. It says a cat-back system, which your car doesnt have. (the catalytic converters which werent made mandatory until 1975) If you do go the t-5 route with a cable clutch, it will make fitting your headers easier. (the mechanical clutch linkage that came stock on 65's and im sure 66's is quite an obstacle) I recommend ordering every magazine about cars you can and start reading.

www.jegs.com check them out, order a magazine (free) all kinds of engine parts and stuff

www.mustangsplus.com You can order a free mag from them too, they have all the parts to do the t-5 swap


http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/5272/ Here is an article on the t5 swap.

[Gearhead999]

Even if the intake, Aluminum, is polished; it will dull. Aluminum oxidizes and dulls. Just the way it is.

When I said you install intake without gaskets, I meant the end gaskets on the intake. Intakes have four gaskets....one on each cylinder head that seal between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. These two gaskets you need for sure. It seals the intake ports, water cross over, exhaust cross over and oil from leaking. But, on each end of the intake manifold, front and rear, there are two cork gaskets, one on each end. These two gaskets are there to seal the intake manifold to the cylinder block to stop oil leaks. Most people that install aftermarket intakes use a bead of RTV. RTV stands for Room Temperture Vulcanized silicone cauking. You put a bead of it down both ends. A little extra dab where the intake side gaskets, on the cylinder heads meet the block. Let it sit 15 minutes or so, till it starts to "skim" over. Then install the intake, straight down without moving it around. Just nice and straight. You can use some home made studs, to assist in the alignment. Get four extra intake manifold bolts. Cut the heads off the bolts and cut a slot in the cut off end with a hacksaw. This will allow you to unscrew them, with a flat blade screwdriver, after you get the manifold on. Torque the manifold from the inside out going side to side. Not TOO TIGHT.

A four barrel will burn more fuel, but to make more power you need to burn more fuel. That's just the way it is. BUT.....if you drive normal and like a sane person....you will more than likely get the same mileage or even better if you keep your foot out of the back barrels.

Hope this helps...ask away.

Have a good day.

[SCHOONER]

Hey Gearhead999

Boy Gearhead I like what you suggested about installing the intake manifold. I will do as you suggested.

However, let me tell you what I bought:
EDELBROCK ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD.

ALSO A 4 BARREL CARB (EDELBROCK CHROME) WITH MANUAL CHOKE. I WANT TO BE IN CONTROL.

I LIVE IN VEGAS SO I DON'T THINK IT WILL BE A PROBLEM JUST OPENNING THE CHOKE TO START HER UP IF ITS NECESSARY.

I HAVEN'T INSTALLED ANY OF MY NEW PARTS YET!
I FIGURE IT WOULD BE BETTER ONCE I GOT MY ENGINE ON THE STAND I CAN MAYBE BUY A NEW CHROME WATER PUMP AND ANY OTHER CHROME PARTS I NEED ~ WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THAT GUYS

THANK YOU AND YOUR GOOD SUGGESTION.

NOW FOR A BIGGY (AS LEAST FOR ME)
MY FIREWALL AND THE INSIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT LOOK REALLY CRAPPY. THE GUY WHO SOLD THE CAR TO MY WIFE(THAT WAS MY SURPRISE BIRTHDAY PRESENT SPRAYED UNDERCOATING ALL OVER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ~ SLOPPY JOB.

THE FOOL EVEN GOT IT ON THE INSIDE OF MY HOOD (CRAZY I KNOW, BUT NEVER THE LAST THERE IS WAS)

HERE'S WHAT I NEED TO HEAR FROM YOUR GUYS OUT THERE.

I WANT TO REMOVE MY 289 ENGINE AND GET IN THERE AND START STRIPPING ALL THE GARBAGE OFF THE INSIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND FIREWALL TOO.

I WOULD LOVE TO PAINT IT "TAHO TURQUOISE" THAT'S THE ORIGINAL COLOR OF MY CAR. OR SHOULD I PAINT IT GLOSS BLACK.

A FELLOW SAID THAT THE " EASTWOOD COMPANY " WILL HAVE THE PAINT JUST RIGHT FOR THE JOB I WANT TO DO. HE SAID THEY'RE HAVE THE BLACK BUT DOESN'T KNOW ABOUT THE TURQUOISE COLOR.

TELL ME GUYS WHAT DO YOU THINK

I NEED TO KNOW FIRST: 'WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO STIP THAT UNDER COATING OFF THE ENGINE WELL

WHAT PRIMER

LOOK I DON'T KNOW WHAT ELSE TO SAY
YOU GUYS ARE THE PROS ~ I'LL BE YOU LABORER

THE QUESTION IS: HOW WOULD YOU DO THIS JOB IF IT WERE YOUR CAR

EITHER ITS TAHOE TURQUOISE OR ITS GLOSSY BLACK.

THANK YOU GUYS
GOD BLESS ALL THAT HAVE HELPED ME IN THE PAST AND GOD WILLING THOSE GREAT GUYS WHO WILL HELP ME AGAIN.

SCHOONER

[Gearhead999]

To strip the undercoating, it's going to take a petroleum based solvent. Like mineral spirits, kerosene, etc. I would probably try both. See which one strips better and which one you can work with. Like the fumes and harshness on you hands. I'd get some good rubber gloves that the solvent won't melt. Lots of rags and "scotch brite" pads should do the trick, you can get some pretty coarse ones at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Good luck to you there....that's a tough, dirty, hot, etc. job.

Painting the engine bay.....well it was a semi-gloss black from the factory. You can buy the correct, or as close as you can get, semi-gloss from Eastwood in spray cans.
Gloss black is nice, because it's easy to clean up after. But if you're fussy about is it original, which I'm not, it isn't correct. Either is painting the engine bay body color. Under side of the hood is body color though.

FYI, the Elderbrock carb you bought is perfect for what you want to do. But it isn't Chrome, it's polished. Looks good though. I'm putting two on my new engine I'm building for my Cougar.

I like the chrome accents too. Knock yourself out with them. IE...valve covers, oil filler cap, radiator cap, mastercylinder cap, dip stick, export brace, etc. Stay away from a chrome oil pan. They are out there and they are cheap. But, the chrome pan retains heat in the motor oil and that you don't want. You want the oil to dissapate the heat in the pan, not hold it.

That brings up one more thing. If you pull the engine and do the engine bay do yourself a favor before reinstalling the engine. Add an export brace. It's a "V" shaped brace that replaces the two channeled braces that go from the top of the shock towers to the firewall. The one piece "export brace" really tightens the front of the car up. You'll notice the difference when driving, cuts down on all the sheet metal, cowl shake and flexing. The part is inexpensive too.

Good luck.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

Any chance that you could get a helper for this stuff???

Its one thing to do this kind of stuff by yourself after you've learned a couple trips, though it isn't exactly easy... its another thing to be green in attempting all of this.

For your own safety, see if you can get someone to physically help you out...

It really is starting to sound like you are getting in deep, here... you need to make a couple decisions...

If you are pulling the engine and transmission... How's the suspension? If it is feesible, and looks like it needs replaced, now would be the time to do it...

Brakes, brake hoses? Now would be the time.

How are the floorboards and frame rails? No hurt in reassuring yourself that they are in top shape while you have stuff apart...


I know... it sounds like a hell of a lot of work... and a lot of money... It is.

But one thing is for sure, it is easier to replace this stuff when you are not working around the engine/transmission and its weight.