Blower/Supercharger on a '66

Hammah · 04-06-2000, 11:14 PM

Well, I'm finally in the market for some forced induction for my 11 second 289.

I saw a "user's ride" somewhere that had a '65 with a BDS 6-71 blower mounted on a 302. I think it was Joe Bloomberg, however I can't seem to track down his email to get some specifics. Anyhow, I'm hoping someone here can make some recommendations.

I need something to push around 17-20 psi to get the gains I'm searching for. I was told by Vortech, that the centrifugal chargers have trouble in a carbureted application above 12psi, so I'm searching for a Weiand/BDS/etc. blower.

Also of note, I may build a fresh 351 Windsor for the blower... so that's another option to keep in mind.

Thanks for any advice!

-----------------
Jack Harmon
'66 Coupe, 289, 5 Speed, Red
'66 Coupe, 289, Auto., Silver Frost
'98 GT Coupe, 281, 5 Speed, Gloss Black http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

Capri306 · 04-07-2000, 05:58 AM

Moved to Classic Mustang--->

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1985 Mustang LX: a Kick-A white 4-banger
My website I can't even edit!

[This message has been edited by Capri306 (edited 04-07-2000).]

Ron1 · 04-08-2000, 10:14 PM

You might contact a guy named Vernon Pitts at Affordable Performance in WA state. I have seen a number of classics go thru his shop on which he has installed blowers, whipple chargers and so on. His E-Mail is vtps@uswest.net.

PS. What track are you racing at? I noticed no cage in your coupe. I almost got sent home when I ran a 12.04. They gave me a friendly reminder not to break 12.00 or it was going home time.

Ron

virtspeed · 04-09-2000, 03:48 PM

Holley bought out the supercharger division of B&M, and now offers a roots type supercharger kit for small block Fords.

------------------
Virtual Speed

Moderator, Tealnet

Hammah · 04-09-2000, 04:17 PM

>You might contact a guy named Vernon Pitts at Affordable Performance in WA state. I have seen a number of classics go thru his shop on which he has installed blowers, whipple chargers and so on

>Holley bought out the supercharger division of B&M, and now offers a roots type supercharger kit for small block Fords

Thanks for the info fellas! I'll contact the fellah you mentioned! Thanks! Also, I've looked into the Holley blower and it's looking good - up to 24psi boost.

>PS. What track are you racing at? I noticed no cage in your coupe. I almost got sent home when I ran a 12.04. They gave me a friendly reminder not to break 12.00 or it was going home time.

Take it to Phoenix, 1300' elevation, and run 11's ONCE then get sent home. Definately worth it. *grin*

My local track is at 5000' elevation (some days it's an adjusted 8000'!!! *sigh*), so I stay above 11.99. I've not decided which to do - 6pt or just the "get me past tech" roll bar. However, I'll have to figure that one out before I stab in the Blown Windsor.

Thanks for the info!
-----------------
Jack Harmon
'66 Coupe, 289, 5 Speed, Red
'66 Coupe, 289, Auto., Silver Frost
'98 GT Coupe, 281, 5 Speed, Gloss Black http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

Ron1 · 04-10-2000, 04:00 PM

I would highly recommend even going to an 8 point (stiffens up the body as well). You will also need 5 point belts, a firejacket, a divider shield between the passenger compartment and trunk, a driveline loop ( cause you will need slicks). Any plans for a rear clip on the car and maybe some tub work? I did a mini tub on my FB, ladder bars and Koni Coil overs. I run 28 x 10.5 slicks and set up right it really hooks.

I am heading to Phoenix in October for the NMRA event there. So I guess I will find out if it slows down.

Ron www.rfedd.bigstep.com

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 04-10-2000).]

Ron1 · 04-11-2000, 01:08 PM

I am not sure what you mean by "what is removed for the 8 point". Nothing had to be removed. You have the center hoop(2), 2 hard points that go inboard from the hoop to the subframe connectors, 2 points thru the rear deck into the trunk, 2 that go forward to the floor pan at your feet. The 2 that go forward have a cross member just behind the sun visors, (this makes up the halo), there is another cross over just behind the seat, and the 2 crossmembers that angle down from the hoop to the front. They could be swing outs.
On the 65 FB the frame rails in the rear were moved inboard, springs gone, ladder bars are tied to the crossovers, and pick up the Koni's. The entire job for tubbing, cage, back halve ( not all done at the same time) was probably around $3000.00. The shortened 9 inch rear end with the 31 spline, backbrace, and pumpkin another 2800.00.
You might also consider some Cal Tracks if you don't want to do the backhalf & tub. If you go that way, the car will sit a lot lower and the slicks will have to tuck up under the fender wells. If you looked at my page and the 65 FB, you will see how far the slicks tuck up underneath. On the 68 FB I am using the Cal Track, and the rear end is much higher. Chris Alston has a really neat catalog that shows the different processes, and I have an article with photos on exactly how it was done on a 65 coupe.

Ron www.rfedd.bigstep.com

Veloxity · 04-11-2000, 10:40 PM

I've got the loop - I generally use 26x10 MT's at the track. I twisted off the pinion shaft at 60mph last weekend at the track (grabbing 3rd - on radials - sheesh) and the loop saved my driveshaft from dropping to the ground, bouncing, and tearing the snot outta my exhaust/body/etc. (got pictures on my site of the pinion)

What's removed when an 8pt is installed? I haven't really considered one of that size yet... Hmmmmm...

>I did a mini tub on my FB, ladder bars and Koni Coil overs. I run 28 x 10.5 slicks and set up right it really hooks.

I've been examining that area and it looks like I have room to fit a 12" tire under there, IF I move the leaf springs, or build a setup for 4 link/ladder and coilovers...

The mini-tub you mentioned - what did that cost you, and did you modify the rear subframe?

Thanks for the info!

------------------
'66 Coupe - heavy mods
http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

Veloxity · 04-14-2000, 03:20 PM

>I am not sure what you mean by "what is removed for the 8 point".

Rear seat? Passenger seat?

I'm guessing the rear seat will be gone - not that it's any use with a bar crossing behind the front buckets. *grin* Unless you get someone into yoga to ride in the back.

I spoke with Paxton and got all the part # necessary for a Novi 2000R and kit for a carbureted 351W (that "should" fit under the hood). I'll have to call the Carb Shop to get the carburetor and bonnet, but it looks like I've found a winner that can push over 25psi. I'll run 10-12 psi until I'm familiar and can afford a bulletproof bottom-end.

------------------
'66 Coupe - heavy mods
http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

Ron1 · 04-15-2000, 09:40 PM

One other thing you will need to do is upgrade your fuel system. The Holley blue will never give you what you need. Maybe pressure but no volume. I would seriously consider a BG 280, the BG filter and regulators. Also run 10AN from your tank or cell to the pump, and 8AN from there. Also use the BG fittings. They have much larger openings than the regular Aeroquip fittings.

Ron

04-06-2000, 11:14 PM	#1
Hammah Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Colorado Posts: 12	Blower/Supercharger on a '66 Well, I'm finally in the market for some forced induction for my 11 second 289. I saw a "user's ride" somewhere that had a '65 with a BDS 6-71 blower mounted on a 302. I think it was Joe Bloomberg, however I can't seem to track down his email to get some specifics. Anyhow, I'm hoping someone here can make some recommendations. I need something to push around 17-20 psi to get the gains I'm searching for. I was told by Vortech, that the centrifugal chargers have trouble in a carbureted application above 12psi, so I'm searching for a Weiand/BDS/etc. blower. Also of note, I may build a fresh 351 Windsor for the blower... so that's another option to keep in mind. Thanks for any advice! ----------------- Jack Harmon '66 Coupe, 289, 5 Speed, Red '66 Coupe, 289, Auto., Silver Frost '98 GT Coupe, 281, 5 Speed, Gloss Black http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

04-07-2000, 05:58 AM	#2
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Moved to Classic Mustang---> ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1985 Mustang LX: a Kick-A white 4-banger My website I can't even edit! [This message has been edited by Capri306 (edited 04-07-2000).]

04-08-2000, 10:14 PM	#3
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	You might contact a guy named Vernon Pitts at Affordable Performance in WA state. I have seen a number of classics go thru his shop on which he has installed blowers, whipple chargers and so on. His E-Mail is vtps@uswest.net. PS. What track are you racing at? I noticed no cage in your coupe. I almost got sent home when I ran a 12.04. They gave me a friendly reminder not to break 12.00 or it was going home time. Ron

04-09-2000, 03:48 PM	#4
virtspeed Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Detroit, MI, USA Posts: 84	Holley bought out the supercharger division of B&M, and now offers a roots type supercharger kit for small block Fords. ------------------ Virtual Speed Moderator, Tealnet

04-09-2000, 04:17 PM	#5
Hammah Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Colorado Posts: 12	>You might contact a guy named Vernon Pitts at Affordable Performance in WA state. I have seen a number of classics go thru his shop on which he has installed blowers, whipple chargers and so on >Holley bought out the supercharger division of B&M, and now offers a roots type supercharger kit for small block Fords Thanks for the info fellas! I'll contact the fellah you mentioned! Thanks! Also, I've looked into the Holley blower and it's looking good - up to 24psi boost. >PS. What track are you racing at? I noticed no cage in your coupe. I almost got sent home when I ran a 12.04. They gave me a friendly reminder not to break 12.00 or it was going home time. Take it to Phoenix, 1300' elevation, and run 11's ONCE then get sent home. Definately worth it. grin My local track is at 5000' elevation (some days it's an adjusted 8000'!!! sigh), so I stay above 11.99. I've not decided which to do - 6pt or just the "get me past tech" roll bar. However, I'll have to figure that one out before I stab in the Blown Windsor. Thanks for the info! ----------------- Jack Harmon '66 Coupe, 289, 5 Speed, Red '66 Coupe, 289, Auto., Silver Frost '98 GT Coupe, 281, 5 Speed, Gloss Black http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

04-10-2000, 04:00 PM	#6
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	I would highly recommend even going to an 8 point (stiffens up the body as well). You will also need 5 point belts, a firejacket, a divider shield between the passenger compartment and trunk, a driveline loop ( cause you will need slicks). Any plans for a rear clip on the car and maybe some tub work? I did a mini tub on my FB, ladder bars and Koni Coil overs. I run 28 x 10.5 slicks and set up right it really hooks. I am heading to Phoenix in October for the NMRA event there. So I guess I will find out if it slows down. Ron www.rfedd.bigstep.com [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 04-10-2000).]

04-11-2000, 01:08 PM	#7
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	I am not sure what you mean by "what is removed for the 8 point". Nothing had to be removed. You have the center hoop(2), 2 hard points that go inboard from the hoop to the subframe connectors, 2 points thru the rear deck into the trunk, 2 that go forward to the floor pan at your feet. The 2 that go forward have a cross member just behind the sun visors, (this makes up the halo), there is another cross over just behind the seat, and the 2 crossmembers that angle down from the hoop to the front. They could be swing outs. On the 65 FB the frame rails in the rear were moved inboard, springs gone, ladder bars are tied to the crossovers, and pick up the Koni's. The entire job for tubbing, cage, back halve ( not all done at the same time) was probably around $3000.00. The shortened 9 inch rear end with the 31 spline, backbrace, and pumpkin another 2800.00. You might also consider some Cal Tracks if you don't want to do the backhalf & tub. If you go that way, the car will sit a lot lower and the slicks will have to tuck up under the fender wells. If you looked at my page and the 65 FB, you will see how far the slicks tuck up underneath. On the 68 FB I am using the Cal Track, and the rear end is much higher. Chris Alston has a really neat catalog that shows the different processes, and I have an article with photos on exactly how it was done on a 65 coupe. Ron www.rfedd.bigstep.com

04-11-2000, 10:40 PM	#8
Veloxity Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Western Slope - Colorado Posts: 14	I've got the loop - I generally use 26x10 MT's at the track. I twisted off the pinion shaft at 60mph last weekend at the track (grabbing 3rd - on radials - sheesh) and the loop saved my driveshaft from dropping to the ground, bouncing, and tearing the snot outta my exhaust/body/etc. (got pictures on my site of the pinion) What's removed when an 8pt is installed? I haven't really considered one of that size yet... Hmmmmm... >I did a mini tub on my FB, ladder bars and Koni Coil overs. I run 28 x 10.5 slicks and set up right it really hooks. I've been examining that area and it looks like I have room to fit a 12" tire under there, IF I move the leaf springs, or build a setup for 4 link/ladder and coilovers... The mini-tub you mentioned - what did that cost you, and did you modify the rear subframe? Thanks for the info! ------------------ '66 Coupe - heavy mods http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

04-14-2000, 03:20 PM	#9
Veloxity Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Western Slope - Colorado Posts: 14	>I am not sure what you mean by "what is removed for the 8 point". Rear seat? Passenger seat? I'm guessing the rear seat will be gone - not that it's any use with a bar crossing behind the front buckets. grin Unless you get someone into yoga to ride in the back. I spoke with Paxton and got all the part # necessary for a Novi 2000R and kit for a carbureted 351W (that "should" fit under the hood). I'll have to call the Carb Shop to get the carburetor and bonnet, but it looks like I've found a winner that can push over 25psi. I'll run 10-12 psi until I'm familiar and can afford a bulletproof bottom-end. ------------------ '66 Coupe - heavy mods http://www.acsol.net/~intruder/66coupe.html

04-15-2000, 09:40 PM	#10
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	One other thing you will need to do is upgrade your fuel system. The Holley blue will never give you what you need. Maybe pressure but no volume. I would seriously consider a BG 280, the BG filter and regulators. Also run 10AN from your tank or cell to the pump, and 8AN from there. Also use the BG fittings. They have much larger openings than the regular Aeroquip fittings. Ron