Boxing Control Arms

leestanger · 03-14-2001, 12:15 AM

I am in the process of going through my 65 2+2 suspension. I am doing a lot of the suspension upgrades (negative camber kit, monte carlo bar, export brace, konis, suframe connectors, urethane bushings etc.) and am wondering if anybody can give any info on boxing the control arms. I understand that the old Trans Am racers did this. For a street car I am not sure that coughing up the ante for the tubular jobs makes sense and the boxed ones (although they do have bearings instead of bushings) from the aftermarket are about $300 a pair also. The whole idea seems pretty straight forward in terms of welding a layer of metal across the open "U" in the stamped pieces (but not covering the bolt holes where I can't get a wrench on them). Seems like a way to add a bunch of strength (if my sense of geometry and structural strength is close to right)for a few bucks and some spark time with the welder. But I have fooled myself before so I wanted to ask those who might have some experience. If someone knows of links with pictures that I can use as a guide or whatever else can give me a better idea of what is best I would appreciate it.

Billgear · 03-14-2001, 12:39 AM

i'm interested in this also, seems simple enough. I wonder if you have to worry about
the heat softening the steel? Hopefully you'll get some replys.

------------------

thunderbolt · 03-19-2001, 12:57 AM

I have seen this done in articles and also have some experience as a welder. It is pretty straight forward but if you want to try this your self just remember to make short welds and rotate around the piece you are working on so as not to build up too much heat in any one spot and cause warpage. That would be my biggest concern. Be careful too that you don't burn holes in the sheet metal. A mig welder would be the way to go on this.

leestanger · 03-19-2001, 11:25 AM

Can you direct me to any articles that would show the location of the reenforcement materials on the upper control arms? I am using a wire feed welder and have done one lower arm afetr looking at a TCP boxed arm.

Thank you,

Lee

Quote:

Originally posted by thunderbolt:
I have seen this done in articles and also have some experience as a welder. It is pretty straight forward but if you want to try this your self just remember to make short welds and rotate around the piece you are working on so as not to build up too much heat in any one spot and cause warpage. That would be my biggest concern. Be careful too that you don't burn holes in the sheet metal. A mig welder would be the way to go on this.

thunderbolt · 03-20-2001, 01:47 PM

Lee:
Sorry cant help on material location. The article I remember was an old hot rod piece and it was a chevy they were doing, not a mustang. If I run accrost anything else I'll let you know. Sounds as if you are doing fine though.

mustangII460 · 03-20-2001, 06:51 PM

I did this to my Torino. I took two pieces of steel for each side. They were about two inches wide and however long to bridge the "U." I used a 110 volt wire feed welder. Careful not to melt the lower arm. Without crawling under the car and looking I think the steel was about 1/8 inch thick. It was welded out of the way of any bolts etc. Wish I had a pic to show.

This modification takes the twist out of the lower arm. Alone I doubt much improvment was gained but with a good sway bar/PST bushings, coil springs/pearches It made my Torino very tight in the front. The roll is gone. I used big block coil springs.

Go for the mod and save yourself money.

03-14-2001, 12:15 AM	#1
leestanger Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Stone Mountain, GA, USA Posts: 7	Boxing Control Arms I am in the process of going through my 65 2+2 suspension. I am doing a lot of the suspension upgrades (negative camber kit, monte carlo bar, export brace, konis, suframe connectors, urethane bushings etc.) and am wondering if anybody can give any info on boxing the control arms. I understand that the old Trans Am racers did this. For a street car I am not sure that coughing up the ante for the tubular jobs makes sense and the boxed ones (although they do have bearings instead of bushings) from the aftermarket are about $300 a pair also. The whole idea seems pretty straight forward in terms of welding a layer of metal across the open "U" in the stamped pieces (but not covering the bolt holes where I can't get a wrench on them). Seems like a way to add a bunch of strength (if my sense of geometry and structural strength is close to right)for a few bucks and some spark time with the welder. But I have fooled myself before so I wanted to ask those who might have some experience. If someone knows of links with pictures that I can use as a guide or whatever else can give me a better idea of what is best I would appreciate it.

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03-14-2001, 12:39 AM	#2
Billgear Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Concord,CA Posts: 86	i'm interested in this also, seems simple enough. I wonder if you have to worry about the heat softening the steel? Hopefully you'll get some replys. ------------------

03-19-2001, 12:57 AM	#3
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	I have seen this done in articles and also have some experience as a welder. It is pretty straight forward but if you want to try this your self just remember to make short welds and rotate around the piece you are working on so as not to build up too much heat in any one spot and cause warpage. That would be my biggest concern. Be careful too that you don't burn holes in the sheet metal. A mig welder would be the way to go on this.

03-20-2001, 01:47 PM	#5
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	Lee: Sorry cant help on material location. The article I remember was an old hot rod piece and it was a chevy they were doing, not a mustang. If I run accrost anything else I'll let you know. Sounds as if you are doing fine though.

03-20-2001, 06:51 PM	#6
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	I did this to my Torino. I took two pieces of steel for each side. They were about two inches wide and however long to bridge the "U." I used a 110 volt wire feed welder. Careful not to melt the lower arm. Without crawling under the car and looking I think the steel was about 1/8 inch thick. It was welded out of the way of any bolts etc. Wish I had a pic to show. This modification takes the twist out of the lower arm. Alone I doubt much improvment was gained but with a good sway bar/PST bushings, coil springs/pearches It made my Torino very tight in the front. The roll is gone. I used big block coil springs. Go for the mod and save yourself money.