cam
 

i asked the dallas mustang guy about getting a cam with a int/eht of 292 and a lift of 512/512
he said that putting a big cam in a stock 289 is a FANTASY ( what the hell does he mean by that )
he also said it just woiuldnot work
well antway he got pissed at me told me to go read a book
well i was wonderin if yall could help figure out what hemeant bout the fantasy and it not working

Pony,
It is always good to hear from someone else here in big Rowlett, let me see if I can explain what the Dallas Mustang guy should have said. You can install a cam like you mentioned but without installing other improvements it is not going to give you the results you want. With that type of cam you will need more than a stock intake/ carb combo as well as a good exhaust setup as well. You have to get the engine to breath better.

If you really want to do this call the cam company that you would like to use and they will give you the scoop on what will work in your setup. I do not agree with the way you were treated but I feel for the guys behind that counter they have alot of young customers always looking for a quick way to go faster. And if it doesn't work they catch the blame!

To give you an idea, both Edelbrock and Holley have recipes for building high performance engines. You can do a lot worse than following these recipes since they are lab tested. I recollect these are on their web sites.

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Avenger.html

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

For Edelbrock press "Power Package Concept" then see Edelbrock's quick reference Power Package Guide for matching components.

Dallas Mustang is a classic parts vendor, not a speed shop.

well u said something bout intake
 

i goe a allum. intake 4 bbl holley, headers
i got a cam with 272 int eht
and a 484 lift
and where in rowleet u at ?

Sounds like you are on your way to having a good setup for the cam, you didn't mention your exhaust. But never the less go with the recommendations from the websites or cam people. Good luck with the decision and try to keep in mind what you want the car to do, taking into consideration the Rear gear ratio, trans., ignition, etc...

I live off Liberty Grove, north of 66 past Covington's nursery.

272/272/.484
 

With the cam you now have, I would think you are about the max you want to be for a street driven 289. I assume we're talking flat tappet hydraulic here.

The most common mistake is having too big of a cam for the engine, or too big of a cam for the application. That's commonly called the "bigger is better" error. That's what the cam guy was referring to. I personally would not go bigger than what you have now unlless you are building a track racer.

Rev

I suggest that you have the heads ported. This will help increase the airflow. Another Cam source is www.compcams.com

Problem here is..................
 

The real problem here is that an engine must really be built for it's intended purpose from the beginning. Starting with the block, it needs to be prepped for what it will be used for. If you really want max power, then you must have it bored and honed with a torque plate. Otherwise the bore won't be really round with the heads bolted on. If you need max strength, you'll need forged pistons, but they won't be round before warm up.

What are you willing to give up as to longevity for the engine. Long duration, high lift cams will wear quicker, no question about it. Even rollers will require heavier valve springs and will have increased wear. Roller cams also have a much heavier valve train and so will rev slower for the same valve springs.

What about drivability? Can you stand 1000 RPM idle with 230 deg coolant temps on the street? Can you pay for race gas at $4/gal to sustain the 11/1 CR?

You won't have to face all of those questions after the fact if you think about them ahead of time. Just a few thoughts.

Rev

wow
 

thx guys
uh clark rogers i got dumped or pack nasties bolted to the headers and well the exhaust ends at the muffler no pipes atall
uhh i would like to see ur car someday im installing my cam tomarrow w/o any help sux to be me
what does the gaer ratio and trans and ignition have to do w/ any thing? its stock rear end and 3 speed and points dist. which is kinda worn ( steevo guy told me that )
uhh rev i no its hydrolic trhats bout it
and uhh yellow gt
my heads have like corrode stuff biulding up on the intake manifold ( where the intake matches the heads ) i saw it when i installed the new intake
but i have no money the cam broke me 2 days after i got my check
sux to be me

Make sure you clay that puppy after you install that new cam. You may have piston to valve clearance issues. With a change in lift, you might just drive the valves through the tops of the pistons. May need to flycut the slugs.
What do ignition and gear ration have to do with anything? Well lets see, if you use an inadequate ignition, as compression changes cylinder pressure may just keep a spark plug from firing. Cylinder pressure "blows" out the spark. That's why we have MSD and others.
Gear ratio's..where do I start. It is the cheapest "HP" you can buy. By changing from a 3.00 to a 4.11 it will feel like you just added 100 HP, but the engine will RPM a lot quicker and you may "run out of gear". With a 3.00 gear freeway RPM, lets say at 60 MPH is 2000 RPM, with a 4.11 it will be 3500 RPM at 60 MPH. (These are not accurate numbers).
Run your car at 3500 RPM for a long time and it will wear out really quick.

Ron

cam
 

got the cam in and just gotta get the timing right !!!
it sounds bad *** right now
well ill update when im done

!!!!
 

i got a problem i cant get the timing right we turn the dist. as far to the left as it would go but i dont thi9nk its far enough everytime we pull out the dist and turn and TRY to put back in we cant get it in.
is there any way yall can help me out on a better way to get the right timing?
thx