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09-30-2002, 10:41 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 7
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storing for the winter
in minnesota the winters get pretty mean and this is the first year i have this car. I just enheirited it from my dad and now I want to continue maintaining and driving it. I have a '67 GT 390 coupe a that is almost done being restored. I have heard stories from people that have left their car sitting from early fall to mid-spring, which is about how long it will have to sit, about how it's not good to do that. what can i do to lighten any effects winter storage will have on it?
thanks, Brian |
10-01-2002, 08:43 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 380
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Here are a few ideas for you.
1. Full tank of gas so moisture dosen't accumulate in the tank. Some fuel extender will keep it good all winter. 2. A teaspoon full of engine oil down each of the sparkplug holes, keeps piston rings lubed so they don't stick to the block, and helps stop any rust that may want to form. 3. Disconnect the battery. 4. I like to take a little weight off the springs if it is going to sit a long time. 5. Put a car cover on it, it is amazing how much crap accumulates on the car sitting in a garage, and would have saved my paint from the dog that got on my car. 6. Drain gas from the carb. It will evaporate and require the carb to be cleaned later. 7. If you have mice in the area, put out traps and bait before they find your car. I am sure people will chime in with a few more things. When you go to fire the engine again in the spring you might want to prelube the engine by pulling the distributor and getting an oil pump primer on a drill (less than $15.00). This will get oil to most of the engine components. I recently fired a 289 that had been sitting for three years, no problem, other than needing the carb cleaned, see #6. Funny but it is just getting good to start driving around with the windows down around here. All my summer hobbies have become winter activities. |
10-03-2002, 03:56 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 208
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Good advice, heres an alternative:
a. wheels off the ground, car solidly on wood blocks, saves tires too. b. Gasoline stabilizer in the tank. I would leave the carb as is and the battery connected. Just open the garage door once a week, start it and run the engine until the temperature comes up. Put it in gear and let it idle on the blocks while temperature is coming up. It will come through the winter just fine. |
10-04-2002, 11:42 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Allendale, Mi
Posts: 137
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Does that advice apply to old cars as well as new cars, and how about a stang with efi. With my last car every two weeks I'd go out and start it and let it idle for 30 min during the winter.
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1994 Mustang GT Convertible |
10-05-2002, 03:42 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 63
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and what about driving through winter?
These ideas are great, and the made me remember i'm going somewhere cold too! i am on the move again. This time to ..... ALASKA!!
I wouldn't say no to any info/hints i can get on looking after my car there. Wonderfully or naively (take your pick lol!) i am driving/ferrying there also. Storage is not an option, as i'll need my car there (she's a daily driver). Although at least i have the smarts to wait until spring!. How does an old mustang handle in the snow? and how is it at cold starting?. Of course i'll be getting things like chains and a heating block, not to mention the cold temp oil n stuff, but any info is welcomed! thanks in advance.
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1968 coupe, straight 6 and proud of it! |
10-05-2002, 06:22 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 380
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OUCH. Old mustang in the snow. I have done this and learned to drive RWD in the snow so I am more comfortable with that but the old mustang is a tough way to do it. Get good snow tires and think about them all the way around. I know most rwd only get rear snow tires, but the extra traction for turning and braking might be nice. Lots of weight in the trunk. The mustang is really light, so add lots of weight to it. Couple of bags of sand or something. Kitty litter is supposed to be really good for added traction when you get stuck. Chains when it gets real bad. Easy on the throttle, easy on the brakes. Lighter weight oil, and I would just drain the washer fluid.
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10-06-2002, 07:04 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 467
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sand is good for traction when you're stuck, kitty litter will only gel and become slippery
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'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford! |
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