Engine differences (2v, 4v?) - Page 2

Tom351 · 01-04-2001, 03:24 PM

I don't doubt you, For cheap speed (depending on how cheap) I would recommend a stock 351W rebuild, 69 351W heads Deck them for compression and port them yourself (check out this link) http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm polish the chambers. Get some headers, a decent cam, Comp cams roller tip rockers work good at $100 cheaper than full roller rockers. Get a good aluminum intake and nice carb. I did this a few years back and my stang ran 13's at just over 100mph with a very inexpensive engine setup. 13's is not super-fast, but it will take care of a lot of street opponents.
Also check out E-bay for bargains

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

John Z · 01-05-2001, 11:49 AM

Seems to depend on the definition of what is cheap. The stuff you've specified must cost over $1500, some will think that's cheap others won't. Plus, there should be some thought to the rest of the drive train. Either a heavily built C4 or C6, or a toploader and a 9" would be needed for survival. Of course you would want some good tires, and the list goes on.
And all of this advice is going to someone who started the tread with an assumption that 2v had something to do with a carb. Great that JohnnyK is asking and learning, and willing to do all the work himself. But I still maintain that really fast and really cheap are confliciting phrases.

Tom351 · 01-05-2001, 12:25 PM

You are right, it all depends on your definition of cheap.

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

JohnnyK · 01-05-2001, 01:05 PM

Correction, I asked what 2v and 4v meant.

I've had my fun with cars. I can dismantle a car completely, diagnose, and throw it back together.. However, that is with newer cars. I assume older cars can only be easier. I was thinking buying a car that needs work for about 2 grand, fixing it up, and then going from there.

John Z · 01-05-2001, 01:48 PM

Sorry if I read something into your original post that wasn't there. Sounds like you have the tools and ability. Go for it and keep us posted. Best wishes.

Jaydee · 01-05-2001, 01:49 PM

Also depends on your definition of fast - for some 13's are flying and for others 10's aren't fast enough.

Tom351 · 01-05-2001, 02:57 PM

10's for cheap is out of the question, but 13's is probably fast for a newcomer

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

JohnnyK · 01-06-2001, 01:52 PM

I'd like to see 12's, but with style..

I COULD just get a beat up 5.0 and mod it up, but it just wouldn't be me.. Today, I continue the fastback search. If anyone knows of a late 60's Fastback in need of restoration, let me know.. I need another hobby. I'm about done with the Fiero.

j's69stang · 01-11-2001, 11:08 PM

ok if you want cheap, i got a 69 mustang. i just had the motor rebuilt 2 weeks ago. i got it bored .060, a comp 282 cam, 3 angle vavle job, heads decked, flat top pistons, edelbrock intake and carb, headman headers, running 10:1 compression, all for under a grand. I dont knwo what it runs but im sure its close to low 14s thats with a 3.00 gear 8 inch open in the rear. i didnt get a hook up or a special on the rebuild either. if you want cheap thats cheap

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01-04-2001, 03:24 PM	#21
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	I don't doubt you, For cheap speed (depending on how cheap) I would recommend a stock 351W rebuild, 69 351W heads Deck them for compression and port them yourself (check out this link) http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm polish the chambers. Get some headers, a decent cam, Comp cams roller tip rockers work good at $100 cheaper than full roller rockers. Get a good aluminum intake and nice carb. I did this a few years back and my stang ran 13's at just over 100mph with a very inexpensive engine setup. 13's is not super-fast, but it will take care of a lot of street opponents. Also check out E-bay for bargains ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-05-2001, 11:49 AM	#22
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	Seems to depend on the definition of what is cheap. The stuff you've specified must cost over $1500, some will think that's cheap others won't. Plus, there should be some thought to the rest of the drive train. Either a heavily built C4 or C6, or a toploader and a 9" would be needed for survival. Of course you would want some good tires, and the list goes on. And all of this advice is going to someone who started the tread with an assumption that 2v had something to do with a carb. Great that JohnnyK is asking and learning, and willing to do all the work himself. But I still maintain that really fast and really cheap are confliciting phrases.

01-05-2001, 12:25 PM	#23
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	You are right, it all depends on your definition of cheap. ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-05-2001, 01:05 PM	#24
JohnnyK Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Posts: 40	Correction, I asked what 2v and 4v meant. I've had my fun with cars. I can dismantle a car completely, diagnose, and throw it back together.. However, that is with newer cars. I assume older cars can only be easier. I was thinking buying a car that needs work for about 2 grand, fixing it up, and then going from there.

01-05-2001, 01:48 PM	#25
John Z Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Posts: 102	Sorry if I read something into your original post that wasn't there. Sounds like you have the tools and ability. Go for it and keep us posted. Best wishes.

01-05-2001, 01:49 PM	#26
Jaydee Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Conn. Posts: 220	Also depends on your definition of fast - for some 13's are flying and for others 10's aren't fast enough.

01-05-2001, 02:57 PM	#27
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	10's for cheap is out of the question, but 13's is probably fast for a newcomer ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-06-2001, 01:52 PM	#28
JohnnyK Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Posts: 40	I'd like to see 12's, but with style.. I COULD just get a beat up 5.0 and mod it up, but it just wouldn't be me.. Today, I continue the fastback search. If anyone knows of a late 60's Fastback in need of restoration, let me know.. I need another hobby. I'm about done with the Fiero.

01-11-2001, 11:08 PM	#29
j's69stang Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Posts: 102	ok if you want cheap, i got a 69 mustang. i just had the motor rebuilt 2 weeks ago. i got it bored .060, a comp 282 cam, 3 angle vavle job, heads decked, flat top pistons, edelbrock intake and carb, headman headers, running 10:1 compression, all for under a grand. I dont knwo what it runs but im sure its close to low 14s thats with a 3.00 gear 8 inch open in the rear. i didnt get a hook up or a special on the rebuild either. if you want cheap thats cheap