engine swamp

[lil67pony]

i was wondering if a 302 will fit in my mustang that came out of a 1988 mustang. also what i would need to do sence i have no air ect. what to do with extra parts.

[PKRWUD]

The 88 is fuel injected. The 67 is not. To get a fuel injected engine to work in a non fuel injected vehicle is a lot of work, and will cost you a lot of money. If you have the entire 1988 Mustang at your disposal, it will be easier, since that is where the majority of the parts will come from. It would be easier to fix up the '88.

Take care,
~Chris

[DRASTiK]

What is in the 67 now? You could use the bottom end of the engine out of the 88 and use a carburetor setup on top of that. That's what I did in my 69 a few years ago.

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by DRASTiK
What is in the 67 now? You could use the bottom end of the engine out of the 88 and use a carburetor setup on top of that. That's what I did in my 69 a few years ago.

I think it's got an IL6. Your idea is a good one, and much more easy to undertake than a straight across swap (swamp)(LOL). They'll need an electric fuel pump, too.

I just spent some time trying to explain these things to rustang girl. She's getting a Lincoln EFI 5.0 put into her car, but they're going to convert it to a carb.

Take care,
~Chris

[lil67pony]

yea i have an straight 6. so what would i need to do to the engine if i want it wo be non fuel injected?

[lil67pony]

this is the one i wanna put in

[PKRWUD]

You would have to replace the intake manifold with a carburetted one, as well as get a carb and an air cleaner for it. You'll also need a new distributor. Make sure it has vacuum advance provisions, and a steel gear (you will need to tell whoever you buy it from that it will be used with a billet steel roller camshaft, otherwise it may have a cast gear, which won't last very long with that cam). You will need an electric fuel pump, too. You would be wise to replace the water pump if that engine has been out of service for more than 2 weeks. The seals dry out and start to crack, and it's a lot easier to change the pump now than after the engine is installed. Remember, though, that you will have to get a pump for that engine, not for your car, because the design is different. You will now have what's called a serpentine accessory belt system, as opposed to traditional V-belt fan belts, and the devices that are driven from the belt on the front of the engine have to be the ones designed for a serpentine belt. A larger radiator would be a wise idea too. Other than motor mounts, I can't think of anything else right now. If I do, I'll post it later.

Take care,
~Chris

[lil67pony]

thanx for everyones help ohh 1 morer think how much (aftwer i have that motor) will it cost?

u know how much hp to???

[PKRWUD]

...and a fan, or if you want to go electric, an electric fan set up, including a relay, a thermostatic switch, and some 10ga. wire.

...and a fuel pressure regulator.

...and a quality set of gauges (tach, water temp and oil pressure).

Take care,
~Chris

[PKRWUD]

Plan on it costing $1000. It can be done cheaper, but plan on it costing that much anyway. As far as power goes, I have no idea. Ask the person you got the engine from what's been done to it. If it's stock, you should just get a Performer intake, and a Holley 600cfm 4bbl, which will yield a little higher hp than it had, so add about 15hp to whatever the seller says.

Take care,
~Chris

[PKRWUD]

...probably going to need a different oil pan.

[Jeff65]

There's a lot of little things you have to do to prepare the engine for use in your '67 car. There are a few decisions to make as well and this will impact your bottom line. If you had a V8 car now you'd have some of the needed conversion parts but since you have an I6 the distance to go is farther. For a carbureted, v-belt drive engine you'll need:

* timing cover, timing cover index, water pump, water pump bolt kit, radiator, hoses, clamps, fuel pump eccentric, fuel pump, harmonic balancer, pulleys, belts, alternator, alternator brackets, oil pressure sensor, heater hoses and clamps.

* for intake system you'll need intake manifold, carburetor, carburetor fuel line, clamps, intake bolt kit, carburetor bolt kit, temperature sensor.

* for exhaust system you'll need headers, header bolt kit, header gaskets and custom exhaust system.

* for distributor you'll need a distributor like Mallory 2770401 or 4770401. These are Dual Points or Unilite distributors for late model Ford small block engines. You'll need coil, spark plugs and spark plug wires. If the engine you have has a distributor you may be able to convert it to your car but don't go to far with this for the Mallory 2770401 above is only $149 and its a bolt in for your old system and you can use it with your I6 coil.

* for the transmission end you'll need a bell housing, block plate, clutch kit and flywheel or if automatic a flexplate. You'll also need a transmission, crossmember and driveshaft or driveshaft conversion. The rear axle may require changing if its in an original I6 car.

* You'll also need a front sump pan and oil pick up tube.

The bottom line is there are many parts required in a swap and having the engine alone belies the cost of the swap. If you had a early V8 engine, a number of the parts above could come from the early V8 but since you don't there's farther to go and the cost is proportional to the number you need. Get an NPD catalog, find the parts listed herein and add up the costs. I think you will find you need about $2,500 in parts besides the engine you already have.