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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
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![]() My 65, unfortunatley, had to sit out over night because the garage is full of the new cabinets for my house and now it wont start. It ran fine yesterday when I took it out of the garage but this morning when I tried to start it it would only run for about a half second then die. I initially thouhgt the fuel line may have had some condensation that froze so I unhooked the fuel line at the front of the carb and turned the key for a second and it seems to be working fine, so then I took the carb off and took it inside to clean it thinking that it may have had a small piece of ice in it somewhere causing the problem but I had it inside for quite a while and cleaned it really well, replaced some gaskets, adjusted the choke settings and what-not, but when I put it back on I still got nothing. It got down to about 5 degrees over night and I know I shouldn't have left it outside but I also know that it got that cold back in 65. Now I can't even get it to fire using starting fluid. The plugs and wires are only about 5 months old and seem to have stayed dry. I just can't seem to find a problem anywhere. Can anyone help?
Last edited by rfisch; 01-26-2005 at 09:47 PM.. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 358
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![]() If starting fluid doesn't help, I doubt it is the gas...
I'm thinking points. Check to make sure the wires aren't grounding to anything inside the distributor. The one from the condenser and one from the distributor should both be not touching any other part of the distributor other than the screw and nut that they connect to... |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 358
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![]() Another possibility would be if you have a tach that is running through the firewall... if it grounds out anywhere, you are done.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
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![]() Thanks for the quick response man. It sounded like a good idea but everything looks fine in the distributor and I dont have a tach. I'm at a total loss here. I just want to try to get it back inside before the snow comes and the hill is a little too steep for us to push it in. Looks like I better tuck her in for a long cold night outside again.
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 358
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![]() Have timing light?
Crank the engine and hook the light onto the coil to distibutor (spark plug) wire to see if you are getting spark... |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
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![]() I checked the spark from the coil to the distributor, it seems to be a nice strong spark. I then checked the spark from the distributor to one of the plug wires, this still sparked but it wasn't nearly as strong of a spark, but the battery was starting to get low as I was messing with it. What I have found out so far is that the entire fuel delivery system is working great, as far as the carburetor its self, I'm not real experienced, but it seems to be functioning properly. The spark is like I said earlier and from what I know that is pretty much the only two things you need to get the car to run. Running good is another story but I would think it would atleast start. It just wont seem to fire. Is there any chance that the fuel is so bad it wont ignite? Or is there a chance that the coolant wasn't safe to that low of a temp and something really serious may have happened? I would think the radiator would leak if that was so.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 8
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![]() i think that the distributor got moisture under it. i us to have this problem with my old 6000 le. it happened very time i left it out in the cold. so i would have to put a new distributor on it and then it would strat right up and it have ever thing that you are telling me for problems. it is not because of the cold weather other wise the radiator would leak.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 31
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![]() you mean put a new dist. CAP on and just because it was totally dry it would start right away? Did you just keep an extra one around so you had it when that happened? And how much will a new cap run and can you recommend any products specifically?
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 8
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![]() yes put a new cap on. yes i would have a new cap in the house just for this reason. they are not very high in price. i think they may cast about 20-30 dallors. let me now if it worked
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#10 |
Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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![]() last time I bought a cap. I think it was under $10, but I suppose maybe that has been a while.
Ryan
__________________
65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 358
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![]() For a normal parts store, it should be under $10...
www.partsamerica.com Which reminds me, how do the contacts look? points, and cap/rotor... As far as the fuel, as I noted earlier... if it doesn't start with starter fluid... there is a problem outside of the fuel. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Pigeon Forge Tn
Posts: 611
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![]() Fuel, air, spark.
If fuels been ruled out, and air is abundant....try the cap and rotor. And get a petronix so you dont have to worry about the points ![]() On a constructive note. You could also try spraying the cap (and maybe the dist itself?) with a water evaporator/displacer. Has the car been brought "inside" to warm up yet? Just throwing out ideas. J
__________________
____________ '66 Mustang Coupe- AKA "Lenore" *on disability for a (long) bit* '93 GT Mostly stock AKA "Fawkes" Rice Haters Club Member #239 "I find your lack of faith...disturbing." "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats." H. L. Mencken |
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