Replaced AC clutch and now car dies when I am at stop lights

stevstum · 06-27-2002, 10:04 AM

I replaced the AC clutch yesterday and the car runs nice and smooth when the AC is off. I turn it on and I can fill car bog down and if I stop at a light it dies. I do now that my car idles under 500rpms with the AC off.

Any ideas how to fix this?

Agent_4573 · 06-27-2002, 11:13 AM

I would suggest setting our idle to about 750rpm. It should stop that little problem of stalling at lights.

DRASTiK · 06-27-2002, 12:01 PM

Make sure you reset the EEC after changing the idle. If you're unsure how to do this, do a search for the topic of resetting idle and look for the user "Jimberg". He has posted the "proper" procedure a few times.

Coupe5oh · 06-28-2002, 11:28 PM

Yea when my a/c is on, sounds like im packing an e-cam heh, but my motor barely stays running at an idle with the a/c and electric fan drawing the heck outta my charge also, but reseting the ecu like stated above, helped me a little.

fongo · 07-05-2002, 09:52 PM

you know, it sounds funny but I did the same thing and I found out it was the IAC valve. I replaced the whole A/C compressor and all. To my dismay, my car would start choppy and then die as soon as the A/C was turned on. This would also happen while driving and stopping at a red light.
As soon as I replaced the IAC valve, I realized how dirty and bad it was. After this, my car runs perfect with and w/o A/C on.
I hope this gives some insight or suggestions.

vheflin · 07-10-2002, 08:49 AM

I had a similiar problem and like Fongo I found it to be the IAC valve. You can try removing and cleaning the valve, but be sure not to get any cleaner into the electrical part of the valve.

06-27-2002, 10:04 AM	#1
stevstum Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Salem, Or. USA Posts: 233	Replaced AC clutch and now car dies when I am at stop lights I replaced the AC clutch yesterday and the car runs nice and smooth when the AC is off. I turn it on and I can fill car bog down and if I stop at a light it dies. I do now that my car idles under 500rpms with the AC off. Any ideas how to fix this? __________________ Steve Stumbaugh 89 LX 5.0 5sp, Removed air silencer Mac High Flow Air Filter Motorcraft 8mm wires Autolite platinum plugs Mac O/R h-pipe Flowmaster American Thunder 3:55 gears Accel Super Coil (42,000) 75 mm Mass Air Meter

06-27-2002, 11:13 AM	#2
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	I would suggest setting our idle to about 750rpm. It should stop that little problem of stalling at lights. __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

06-27-2002, 12:01 PM	#3
DRASTiK Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Yuma, AZ Posts: 536	Make sure you reset the EEC after changing the idle. If you're unsure how to do this, do a search for the topic of resetting idle and look for the user "Jimberg". He has posted the "proper" procedure a few times. __________________ Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!!

06-28-2002, 11:28 PM	#4
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	Yea when my a/c is on, sounds like im packing an e-cam heh, but my motor barely stays running at an idle with the a/c and electric fan drawing the heck outta my charge also, but reseting the ecu like stated above, helped me a little. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

07-05-2002, 09:52 PM	#5
fongo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Farmingdale, NY Posts: 139	you know, it sounds funny but I did the same thing and I found out it was the IAC valve. I replaced the whole A/C compressor and all. To my dismay, my car would start choppy and then die as soon as the A/C was turned on. This would also happen while driving and stopping at a red light. As soon as I replaced the IAC valve, I realized how dirty and bad it was. After this, my car runs perfect with and w/o A/C on. I hope this gives some insight or suggestions. __________________ 1993 GT, MAC Fenderwell Cold Air Induction; Accel dist.,Splitfire plugs, BBK: 1 5/8 unequal length shorties, hi flow H-pipe w/ cats; Flowmasters 2 chamber American Thunder catback system, Motorsports 3-core radiator, 180º thermostat, BBK adj. clutch quad...the rest is bone stock!..but more mods to come!!

07-10-2002, 08:49 AM	#6
vheflin Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Virginia Posts: 11	I had a similiar problem and like Fongo I found it to be the IAC valve. You can try removing and cleaning the valve, but be sure not to get any cleaner into the electrical part of the valve. __________________ 1993 Mustang GT ------------------------------ Mods: 80mm Pro-m mass air, 75mm Accufab TB, 36lb Bosch injectors, 255lph in tank fuel pump, Anderson power pipe, Kirban AFPR, Autologic chip, Powerdyne 9lb supercharger, Centerforce dual friction clutch, 3.73's, Dynomax superturbo mufflers, no cats, Mac shortys unequal length headers, B&M ripper shifter. MAC upper and lowers. ------------------------------------------ 301.0 RWHP 350.3 ft/lbs torque ------------------------------------------ Vince