Fastest on stock back end

bccorrupt · 05-04-2002, 11:49 PM

I'm wondering what the fastest anyone has run on a 64-66 mustang w/ the stock backend(not tubbed). I know eventually I won't have a choice, but I'm curious about when I will have no chance of traction. I'm interested in putting together a 347 stroker w/ all forged crank, rods, pistons, large cam(this car is only weekend driven), Holley blower(the only one I can find for sm Ford), and possibly a little nitrous.

I've seen that about the largest tires I can fit are 235-60-15 goodyear street legal drags. Anyone have any other tips?

Ron1 · 05-06-2002, 12:49 PM

On a 8.5 x 28 inch MT slick, 9 inch rear end, leaf springs, KYB gas shocks and South Side Machine lift bars, my 65 Coupe went 12.04 @118.09 MPH. If you want to retain the stock rear end, look at www.calvertracing.com and check out the Caltracks. There are many people running sub-tens using those bars and a mono-leaf spring. My 65 FB was mini-tubbed and runs a 10.5 x28 MT slick tucked nicely in the wheel well. (Also just finished a 347 stroker...pics and dyno on my site as well)

Pictures of the 2 cars are at www.rfedd.bigstep.com

Ron

Ron1 · 05-06-2002, 12:52 PM

Not sure on all stock but with some minor mods....on a 8.5 x 28 inch MT slick, 9 inch rear end, leaf springs, KYB gas shocks and South Side Machine lift bars, my 65 Coupe went 12.04 @118.09 MPH. If you want to retain the stock rear end, look at www.calvertracing.com and check out the Caltracks. There are many people running sub-tens using those bars and a mono-leaf spring. My 65 FB was mini-tubbed and runs a 10.5 x28 MT slick tucked nicely in the wheel well. (Also just finished a 347 stroker...pics and dyno on my site as well)

Pictures of the 2 cars are at www.rfedd.bigstep.com

Ron

gtchic · 05-06-2002, 11:13 PM

Thanks a lot. I was mainly looking for inspiration and I got it. What kind of price would be average for the rear suspension, narrowed rearend and mini-tubs? What do you think would be an average price for a full tubbed rear suspension w/ a 4 link or ladder bar setup? Thanks for the help.

bccorrupt · 05-06-2002, 11:20 PM

oops, forgot to log out my gf.

Ron1 · 05-06-2002, 11:55 PM

A complete narrowed housing with a backbraced tube, a good set of 31 or 35 spline axles, nodular center section like a Currie or Strange and a Detroit locker or a full spool will set you back anywhere from $1500.00 to $2500.00. To tub the car with relocating hard points and adding ladder bars, depending on of course who does it could run from $800.00 to $1500.00.
Figure that the entire job, including wheels and tires will set you back about $5000.00.
A mini tub is a bit less, but the ladder bars or 4 link require a crossover to connect the front, so they also have to install tubular sub-frames with crossovers to tie them down. Go check out http://www.cachassisworks.com/ and click on the "how to" and then click on "installing a subframe and suspension". They are the same company who did mine, and it's a real education...and it's on a 66 Mustang.

Ron

bccorrupt · 05-08-2002, 11:59 PM

Thanks, I was guessing about $5000 for everything all together. Is it a better idea to buy a complete rear section already made, or get a shop to build the whole thing?

Ron1 · 05-09-2002, 09:08 PM

The ideal would be for the same guy that does the tubbing, also does the rear end housing (as far as shortening, and making sure it is straight). In other words. you buy the wheels and tires and supply him with a stripped down car. Once all the measurements are done, then you can order the right lenght axles and get the center section. where are you located by the way?

Ron

bccorrupt · 05-10-2002, 01:01 PM

Ft Worth, Texas

Ron1 · 05-10-2002, 04:41 PM

Too far to have it done here....you will have to find someone local. I would suggest you head for the local dragstrip and do some looking around the pits and ask some questions of the racers. I would think in the Pro or S/pro ET classes. Look under the cars and try to find a car similar to yours with the kind of setup you want. then find out where they had it done.

Ron

bccorrupt · 05-11-2002, 10:24 AM

Not really possible. There are lots of barely streetable low e.t. BB and SB chevys running in the 5s in the 1/8, but in 10 years I have never seen ANY mustang 64 all the way up to about mid 80s that could run that fast or that were tubbed. Everyone here that's running a fast Pro street car has a 67-69 camaro. I'm sure the same shop's could work on my car though.

Ron1 · 05-12-2002, 02:03 AM

No reason they can't do the job.

05-04-2002, 11:49 PM	#1
bccorrupt Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 13	Fastest on stock back end I'm wondering what the fastest anyone has run on a 64-66 mustang w/ the stock backend(not tubbed). I know eventually I won't have a choice, but I'm curious about when I will have no chance of traction. I'm interested in putting together a 347 stroker w/ all forged crank, rods, pistons, large cam(this car is only weekend driven), Holley blower(the only one I can find for sm Ford), and possibly a little nitrous. I've seen that about the largest tires I can fit are 235-60-15 goodyear street legal drags. Anyone have any other tips?

05-06-2002, 11:13 PM	#4
gtchic Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 1	Thanks a lot. I was mainly looking for inspiration and I got it. What kind of price would be average for the rear suspension, narrowed rearend and mini-tubs? What do you think would be an average price for a full tubbed rear suspension w/ a 4 link or ladder bar setup? Thanks for the help. __________________ Black 2000 GT Dynomax hi-flow mufflers, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK cold air induction, 4.10 gears, with plans for a 5.4 swap with Cobra heads and a supercharger or custom turbo

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05-06-2002, 12:49 PM	#2
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	On a 8.5 x 28 inch MT slick, 9 inch rear end, leaf springs, KYB gas shocks and South Side Machine lift bars, my 65 Coupe went 12.04 @118.09 MPH. If you want to retain the stock rear end, look at www.calvertracing.com and check out the Caltracks. There are many people running sub-tens using those bars and a mono-leaf spring. My 65 FB was mini-tubbed and runs a 10.5 x28 MT slick tucked nicely in the wheel well. (Also just finished a 347 stroker...pics and dyno on my site as well) Pictures of the 2 cars are at www.rfedd.bigstep.com Ron

05-06-2002, 12:52 PM	#3
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Not sure on all stock but with some minor mods....on a 8.5 x 28 inch MT slick, 9 inch rear end, leaf springs, KYB gas shocks and South Side Machine lift bars, my 65 Coupe went 12.04 @118.09 MPH. If you want to retain the stock rear end, look at www.calvertracing.com and check out the Caltracks. There are many people running sub-tens using those bars and a mono-leaf spring. My 65 FB was mini-tubbed and runs a 10.5 x28 MT slick tucked nicely in the wheel well. (Also just finished a 347 stroker...pics and dyno on my site as well) Pictures of the 2 cars are at www.rfedd.bigstep.com Ron

05-06-2002, 11:20 PM	#5
bccorrupt Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 13	oops, forgot to log out my gf.

05-06-2002, 11:55 PM	#6
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	A complete narrowed housing with a backbraced tube, a good set of 31 or 35 spline axles, nodular center section like a Currie or Strange and a Detroit locker or a full spool will set you back anywhere from $1500.00 to $2500.00. To tub the car with relocating hard points and adding ladder bars, depending on of course who does it could run from $800.00 to $1500.00. Figure that the entire job, including wheels and tires will set you back about $5000.00. A mini tub is a bit less, but the ladder bars or 4 link require a crossover to connect the front, so they also have to install tubular sub-frames with crossovers to tie them down. Go check out http://www.cachassisworks.com/ and click on the "how to" and then click on "installing a subframe and suspension". They are the same company who did mine, and it's a real education...and it's on a 66 Mustang. Ron

05-08-2002, 11:59 PM	#7
bccorrupt Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 13	Thanks, I was guessing about $5000 for everything all together. Is it a better idea to buy a complete rear section already made, or get a shop to build the whole thing?

05-09-2002, 09:08 PM	#8
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	The ideal would be for the same guy that does the tubbing, also does the rear end housing (as far as shortening, and making sure it is straight). In other words. you buy the wheels and tires and supply him with a stripped down car. Once all the measurements are done, then you can order the right lenght axles and get the center section. where are you located by the way? Ron

05-10-2002, 01:01 PM	#9
bccorrupt Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 13	Ft Worth, Texas

05-10-2002, 04:41 PM	#10
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Too far to have it done here....you will have to find someone local. I would suggest you head for the local dragstrip and do some looking around the pits and ask some questions of the racers. I would think in the Pro or S/pro ET classes. Look under the cars and try to find a car similar to yours with the kind of setup you want. then find out where they had it done. Ron

05-11-2002, 10:24 AM	#11
bccorrupt Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 13	Not really possible. There are lots of barely streetable low e.t. BB and SB chevys running in the 5s in the 1/8, but in 10 years I have never seen ANY mustang 64 all the way up to about mid 80s that could run that fast or that were tubbed. Everyone here that's running a fast Pro street car has a 67-69 camaro. I'm sure the same shop's could work on my car though.

05-12-2002, 02:03 AM	#12
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	No reason they can't do the job.