Finding A T-5 Manual Tranny Is Drivin' Me Nuts !

[SCHOONER]

HI GUYS

I GOT A '66 WITH A 3 SPEED MANUAL IN IT.
WANT A T-5 MANUAL. I LOOK ON E-BAY WITH NO LUCK AND BESIDES THAT

I READ AN ARTICLES ABOUT : NOT ALL T-5's ARE MADE THE SAME

SO HERE I AM AGAIN FEED-UP

MY BEAUTIFUL WIFE SAYS, ' HONEY WHY NOT STOP ALL THE BULL WITH THIS TRANSMISSION STUFF AND JUST GO OUT AND BUY A NEW ONE ~ MAN CAN'T BUT LOVE THAT GAL OF MINE '

SO HERE IT IS GUYS:

I'M LOOKING AND READING ABOUT THE BORG WARNER TRANNY.
WHERE IN LAS VEGAS OR ON THE NET DO I BUY A NEW ONE

AT LEAST I'LL KNOW THAT THE SUCKER IS NEW AND I'LL HAVE A DAILY DRIVER I CAN DEPEND UPON.

MORE QUESTIONS: WHAT WOULD A NEW TRANNY RUN ME $ $ $
I MEAN WITH THE HOUSING AND SHIFTER TOO.
OR SHOULD I BUY THE SHIFTER SEPRATELY

O.K. GUYS I'M IN YOUR HANDS AGAIN

GOD BLESS YOU ALL

SCHOONER

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

There are 3 rebuilt on EBAY right now... ranging from $650 - $850 with the "Buy it now" option...

New one from Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp $1150 plus tax and shipping...

New one from Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=17729

Same price at Jegs...

Ford Racing:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=1879
$1395... though it has been my experience that Ford Racing parts dealers will give substantial discounts of book prices.... plus you may be able to avoid shipping charges.

I didn't see Nevada in the Dealers list... but here is the link to locate you closest one:

http://www.fordracingparts.com/where...egion_main.asp

[SCHOONER]

Hey Phillyfanfrombirth

WHAT GREAT INFO. THANK YOU FOR ALL THE TROUBLE YOU WENT THRU TO FIND THOSE FORD DEALERS THAT SELL NEW TRANNIES.

I'M SURE I'M GOIN' TO GO FOR A NEW ONE.

GOT SOME BAD NEWS, BUT THAN AGAIN ITS HOW YOU LOOK AT IT

Went to a friend of mine who got all things of auto tools and lifts and whatever else you can think of in his very LARGE BARN type garage.

We put a compression test on some of my cyclinders and we stopped after testing 3 of 'em.

As you know and as I was shown for my car '66 Mustang with a 2bbl.carb. and 289 engines.

The ranges for the cyclinders go from low: 120 to the high of 170
the readings are to go somewhere between120 and 170 range.

Two of my cyclinders read: 118 and just making 120 the third read; 150. If we took all the 8cyls. and they all ranged between 125 thru
lets say, 160 I'd be in business. But with the readings we took its
NOT GOOD.

So Tom told me its best to strip down the engine and bring it to a AUTO MACHINE SHOP and let 'em cut down the cyclinder a bit and start re-building the engine.

LIKE NEW PISTONS MAYBE?
A whole new RE-BUILDING KIT.
Possible hone down the crank shaft if it needs it.
New 260 cam.

So on and so forth.

Philly, I don't think there's no other way. Those were the readings.
Just give it to me straight ~ I RESPECT YOUR OPINION, NOT THAT I DON'T THINK THAT TOM DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S DOING OR SAYING.
I STILL LIKE YOU OPINION AND SUGGESTS. IF YOU AGREE WITH TOM, HEY I'M ON MY WAY

O.K. PHILLY, AS ALWAYS ~ I'M IN YOUR HANDS ALONG WITH YOU ANOTHER GUYS WHO HAVE HAD EXPERIENCES WITH REBUILDING YOUR ENGINES. AND WHO ARE SO KIND AS TO HELP ME ALONG THIS STRANGE AND WONDERFUL JOURNEY OF: $ $ $, GREASE AND LEARNING

Just a reminder when you GREAT GUYS give me your experiences.
I DON'T WANT TO DRAG OR RACE AROUND TOWN.

I JUST WANT SOME POWER TO CRUISE OR GET OUT OF THE WAY.
YOU CAN TELL BY THE 260 CAM I WANT TO PUT IN THE CAR.

I WANT TO STAY LIKE MID-RANGE WITH PERFORMANCE.

THANK YOU ALL.
AND GOD BLESS YOU GUYS.

I WAIT TILL I HEAR FROM YOU ALL

SCHOONER

[Ingeneius]

I had my 302 longblocked with all new parts, pistons, cam, crank shaft, valves, freeze plugs, ect. It took 2 weeks for the long block rebuild but worth it. Total cost with a new dist. cleaning-oil pan, valve covers, $1,550.00, (Parkland National Auto) Now the tranny (C4) is slipping in 2nd and hesitating before going into 3rd (waits untill 43 MPH, , Not good), I put a new filter and fluid when I did the engine but now it's time for a fix, she (Sally) just sits in the garage looking pretty so there is no hurry

[mustangII460]

1)T-5

2) Why not do a wet compression check. Maybe your heads only need rebuilt.

[rwhite65]

Schooner-
I have been watching several of ur posts here and see that you are getting some good advice, so if I have missed some topics here, I apologize.

You said you performed a compression test on the engine. My question is why did you feel that test was needed in the first place? Depending on how you answer this question, may determine how good my following advice is.

From what I gather you want a reliable, but not overly powerful Mustang. If the car is not smoking, is not using oil, and seems to not be leaking oil too bad, leave it alone. This is also considering the engine has decent oil pressure. Ford small blocks are durable and reliable. Keep good oil, plugs, and wires in it and u will have many miles of smiles.

Now, if the car has been running poorly, or seems to be lacking power, this advice may change slightly.
Hope this helps,
Ryan

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

I'm of mind that if you are going to do it... do it.

What is the point in sticking $2000 in a transmission, and not be sure about the engine?

What is the point of swapping cams, if you aren't sure about the rest of the engine.

Again, there is no replacement for deep pockets and patience... If I was going to throw that much money into it, I'd want to be confident that it will do what I want it to do....

I'm no good at the T5 swap... I've got no experience with the transmission at all... but I really do think that you need to sit down and figure out exactly what you want from this thing before you start dropping money.

When you make that decision, stick to it... as for me, I'm a big believer that if you decide to do it all... do it all at once.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

If you decide on the rebuild... be sure to put in the hardened valve seats. You may also want to consider roller tip rockers while you have things apart... but by and large, you can stick to the basics and do everything you want to do. A 260 cam, 4 barrel carb and intake, and a set of headers will give plenty of get up and go.

[SCHOONER]

TO: ALL THE GUYS WHO ARE HELPING ME THRU THIS MASS OF LEARNING.

THANK YOU: INGENEIUS, MUSTANGII460, RWHITE65, and PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH.

O.K.GUYS HERE IT IS: I DON'T KNOW WHAT A 'WET COMPRESSION TEST IS'
BUT I PERFORMED A REGULAR C/TEST.
HERE'S THE READINGS I GOT ~ WHICH AIN'T GOOD.

NO. 1 CYLINDER ~ 150 NO. 2 CYLINDER ~ 130 NO. 3 CYLINDER ~ 120
NO. 4 " ~ 140 NO. 5 " ~ 118 NO. 6 " ~ 125
NO. 7 CYLINDER ~ 105 NO. 8 CYLINDER ~ 105

AS YOU GUYS CAN SEE IT AIN'T GOOD. THIS IS WHAT LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THAT A REBUILDING IS IN STORE FOR MY CAR.

SO I WILL TAKE EVERYTHING APART AND JUST BRING THE BARE BLOCK TO THE AUTO MECHANIC MACHINE SHOP ~ GOD WILLING I FIND AN HONEST ONE.
I'LL LET HIM BORE OUT WHATEVER IS NECESSARY.
THEN GO FOR THE FOLLOWING:
NEW PISTONS
" RINGS
NEW 260 CAM
" ROLLER LIFTERS
NEW EXHAUST MANIFOLD

AND WHATEVER ELSE YOU GUYS ARE KIND ENOUGH TO TELL ME.

HEY GUYS ' THANKS AGAIN ' FOR PUTTING UP WITH THIS 65YR. OL' YOUNG MAN.

GOD BLESS YOU GUYS

SCHOONER

[rbohm]

you can two different types of compression tests, wet and dry.

the dry test is what most people do. check the compression after removing all the plugs.

a wet test is where you squirt some oil into the plug holes, and then run the compression test again. if the readings remain the same, then the problem in something other than the shortblock, usually a blown head gasket or a leaking valve or two. if the readings rise, then the short block needs rebuilding.

as far as finding a T5, you can find them in salvage yards for around $250 for a decent one. there are a number of places that sell rebuilt T5's like hanlon motorsports for example, for around $750. new they run between $1100 and $1300 depending on who is selling them.