[Rev]

The only harder part about the '66 and under Mustang front end alignments is that caster and camber are adjusted by adding or subtracting shims from the front and rear attatchments of the upper suspension arm. The toe-in adjustment is just like all others.

I do my own allignments in my driveway at home. I don't really recommend it unless you really like to do stuff yourself. It takes alot of trial and error and is a PITA really.

Having said all that, here is what I do:

1.) Make sure that the front wheels are level side to side

2.) With the front wheels on the ground, make a piece of wood, (I use a piece of 2"X4") that just touches each side of the wheel rim. I place that vertically on the rim and adjust the camber so that the wheel is totally vertical. That's 0 degrees of camber. You increase camber by adding shims to front and rear of the upper suspension arm in equal amounts. Subtracting an equal amount from both ends would decrease camber. What I want is 0 degrees of camber or totally vertica with the wheels on the groundl.

3.) Positive caster is obtained by adding shims to the front of the arm or subtracting shims from the rear. This does also affect camber when these are added or subtracted, so I add equallly and subtract equally to front and rear to get more positive caster. I will want the front to back shim pack difference to be the same for both sides of the car. The shim packs may be different thicknesses though from one side to the other. It's tough to measure caster at home without specialized tools. What I do is make sure the shim pack at the front of the suspension arm is about 25% thicker than the rear pack and that I do have 0 degrees of camber and that the shim pack difference is the same on each side..

4.) After I have that caster and camber the way I want it, I then start on the toe-in. That's adjusted by turning the link between the inner and outer tie-rod ends. If the steering wheel is centerd when going straight down the freeway, you will turn each side an equal amount to make the adjustment for toe-in. Make sure you turn them in the right direction as it's easy to get confused while on your back under the car. What you want is a barely detectable shorter distance beteen the front inside of the tires as apposed to the rear inside of the tires. I just measure between the inside front of the tires as apposed to the inside rear of the tires. I'm shooting for 1/16" less at the inside front.

When everything is correct, the car will track straight down the freeway and not pull right or left. Also the car will not pull when the brakes are applied (assuming the brakes are good).

As I said, I do my own allighnment, but I don't recommend it . A good shop that will do it right is worth what they charge. Ask for 1/16" of toe-in, 0 degrees of camber, and 2-3 degrees of caster. I think this is not exactly what my Ford shop manual calls for but is what works well for me.

Rev