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10-08-2002, 05:34 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 70
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Front Spring Removal
Would like instructions on how to remove the front springs on a 1966 coupe. Step by step if possible. I want to perform the Shelby relocation of the upper A arms but don't know how to remove the springs. Also replace worn parts. Car has some unwanted squeeks up there. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Lou
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10-08-2002, 06:26 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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Spring removal
I would try to do a front suspension rebuild while hou have it disassembled.
1.) Remove shock tower cap. 2.) Jack front end of car up, put on jack stands, with the suspension hanging down and remove wheels. 3.) Remove lower retaining nuts and remove shock from the car through the top of shock tower. 4.) Rent or borrow a coil spring compressor (I prefer the inside the spring kind. Make sure it's a good one). I think you can borrow the spring compressor from AutoZone or PepBoys. You may have to buy somethig and leave a deposit, I'm not sure. 5.) Compress the spring enough to get it out of the car. 6.) Be very careful handling the compressed spring. Treat it like a bomb because it can kill you if the compressor should let go unexpectedly. The templates for the Shelby drop you can get from Mustang Plus. That's also a good place to get the new rebuild parts. You can get their catalogue on line or with a phone call. They do have good suspension performance parts. Tony Branda also has the templates I believe. The upper suspension A arms can be rebuilt with new bushings if they aren't bent or cracked (much cheaper than new ones). Get new upper ball joints for the rebuilt upper arms. Lower ball joints are built into the lower supension arms. I would get new 620 1" drop front coil springs. You will need new polyurethane spring insulators and new spring saddles and strut rod bushings. You probably will want a bigger than stock sway bar. I use a 1 1/8", but most folks use just a 1" bar. I use Gabriel Strider adjustable shocks. KYB gas adjust would be a good choice too. With the improved front suspension, you'll need an export brace and a monte carlo bar to stiffen up the front end of the car so as to reduce flex which occurs during hard cornering and alters front end geometry. I would also put in new tie rod ends and idler arm while you're in there. I may have forgotten some stuff here. Get the Mustang Plus catalogue and see what all they have. It's only a few bucks and they'll refund that on the first order. Any specific questions, feel free to ask. I did all this a few years ago myself, so you can too. Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 10-08-2002 at 09:18 PM.. |
10-08-2002, 07:58 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Clayton, CA USA
Posts: 116
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Rev, thanks for the great write-up. I have several of your step-by-step posts that I'm keeping. They come in very handy.
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'68 convert, 5.0 GT-40 Crate motor, C-4, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears |
10-08-2002, 10:06 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 70
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Thanks Rev,
This is just what I needed. Great detail and step by step. I've printed it out for reference. Lots of very helpful people on this site. Again, thanks. Lou
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