Fuel problem I think? Going Crazy

[stanger66]

New member Problem:

200ci,c4,non-power everything,bone-stock other than rims(carroll
shelby rim 14x7 4 lug)

I have a 66 coupe I got 2 years ago. I finally got it running and
I've replaced all of the following:dist,fuel pump(mech.),major tune-up,carb, fuel filter. With all this replaced anytime I drive it I will be
driving 1 mile or less and it will stall out and seconds later start and 1/8 mile stall and it repeats itself until I get home. I cant fiqure this
out I have replaced the carb twice, fuel pump and filters 2-3 times,
and nothing will take off it.

Please help

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

Do you have a tach on it?

If so, what does the tach do when it feels like it is going to shut off?

Have you checked the vacuum?

Does the car only stall when you are driving it?

Which carburetor is on it?

I had a couple go rounds with straight 6s...

[stanger66]

i wish i had a tach and i check for vaccuum leaks found nothing
I have a 1 barrell
Example: If i put it the floor it will die when i let off the gas and cant get it to stay on with playing with gas pedal, this will happen with in 1/8 a mile floored.
If take off with 1/4 to 1/2 thottle it will stall out the same.
When not driving it sitting in parking spot i can floor it all day no problem and will never stall. I would figure it would happen no matter what i did.

[Gearhead999]

When you take the fuel filters out to replace them, are they dirty, clogged??

If you take the carb top off...is there dirt in there?? What is the float level??

What kind of shape is the fuel tank in??

Disconnect the fuel line at the carb. Turn the engine over with a can under the line to catch the fuel. Do you have good flow?? Is the fuel dirty??

Sounds like it is starving for fuel. To eliminate the fuel tank for test purposes you can rig up a fuel can with line under the hood. Have it so the fuel pump is drawing the fuel out of the can and running the motor on that. You have to be CAREFUL here. Gas is highly flamable. If it runs on the clean fuel out of the can and drives OK...well you know where you problem is.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

I'd suggest two things to buy... things that will come in handy for years and multiple purposes.

1. Vacuum gauge that looks like this... you can pick one up at your local parts store for under $30

2. Engine analyzer... I have this one from Sears that has served me well, runs around $50.


This could be a fuel problem, I've had problems with the 1100 carbs, but had much better luck with the RBS , but it may also be a vacuum problem or a problem in the wiring...

[06_GT_Hawaii]

I had an almost exact same situation after doing some work on my truck engine. Does it idle fine? Stalls out when you get on the gas?

With everything you've already checked, try going back to the basic things you wouldn't think about checking. My truck was doing this, and after replacing all the upper gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, new plenum pan gasket for the intake, and 3 days of frustration... a mechanic friend came over took 5 minutes of looking at it, took off all my spark plug wires, wired it right... and that was it.

After all that, I had two wires messed up just enough that it would idle with a nice little rumble to it, then stall out a short way down the road.

Just saying that with everything else you've already checked, it might be something stupid that you wouldn't think about.

[stanger66]

the gas tank was replaced 8 years ago, and my friend stored it 2 months later for 6 years with about 1/8 of a tank left in it. i drained it last year and flushed tank out through drain plug in it came out clean.
Somebody told me that if put bigger lines it would probably help with flow. And worsed came to worsed I should put a electric f/p and regulator for more fuel dump.

Basically I trying to make this realiable to drive as a everyday car so I can sell my tbird and a new car.

The 6 cyl is going to be in there until I can collect all the parts to put the 302 efi in it and all upgrades.

Fuel filters weren't clogged except for 1st one

[Gearhead999]

I think the LARGER fuel line for a small 6 cyl is a waste of time. Heck it is only a 200 cu in 6 cyl....it better not need that much fuel.

Vacumn gauge and analyzer are a good idea to help. Storing the tank for 6 years is long, with fuel in it. Drain the tank and pull the fuel sender and have a peek in there. It's easy enough to do on that year car.

Check the rubber line at the tank and if there is one underneath near the drivers door/left fender area. A small hole here can cause a loss of suction for the pump.

Cut open that fuel filter too.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

I agree with you on the fuel line...

Also, don't forget to check the vacuum line to the transmission...

[stanger66]

Ok Guys,

I replaced the vaccuum hose (only 1) is on car, is there supposed to be more than one because that could be my problem. The vaccuum hose I replaced was the one that goes from carb spacer to tranny.
Are there supposed to be another one at all.

I drove the car and it happen again. I looked at the fuel lines and seemed to be ok.

I sat in park and If I pushed on the gas pedal constantly car would cut off. which sounds like a vaccuum, air inlet, or fuel problem.

This started to happen when I drove to my parents house in Va. 80mi. round trip(drove fine). Next morning went to take car to work and after 5 mi. I drove on the shoulder of I-95 the last 5 mi. And its been a problem since which was about 6mos. ago.

I recently replaced headgasket, water pump, thermostat, exhaust manifold gasket, two weeks ago.

[Phillyfanfrombirth]

I know my 68 and 72 both have 2 vacuum lines going to the distributor... my 68 also has a port vacuum switch on the thermostat housing, and of course one going to the pcv valve off of the base of the carburetor.

[statehedgehog]

I believe you should recheck to see if your distributor is installed correctly and that the plug wires are correct. To check for a vacum leak do this. Take an old shirt balled up and put it over the carb. Use the shirt and your hands to cut of the airflow while the car is at idle. When you do this the car will shut off if no leaks. If you have leaks it will try to keep running. Also you can here were it is sucking air alot better. Of course becareful because of moving parts. Safety first. GOOD LUCK !!

[stanger66]

Thanks Guys for your help,

I replaced the lines going from tank to carb and the pump again. I still had the problem after all that found that the sender was the problem. The fuel sock fell apart and the thing was so clunged that when you blew through it it was like blowing into a coffee stirer. I flushed the tank out too.
The only problem is to get gauge to work right.
Thanks,

Ross