gone in sixty seconds silver

fordkid68 · 10-07-2002, 06:05 PM

hey fella's.

would any of you know what type of silver they used to paint the shelby in gone in sixty seconds.

also I am going to be painting my car soon and can't decide wether to put rally strippes or not.(like the ones in gone and sixty seconds) but how hard is it to paint. I will be painting my car at A R-O-P shop. and will have help. but how hard is it for A first paint job. should I try it or should I leave it for A later time.

thanks
ford kid

tireburner163 · 10-08-2002, 12:58 AM

Body - Pepper Grey Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44490

Stripes - Black Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44435

mustangman65_79 · 10-08-2002, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tireburner163
Body - Pepper Grey Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44490

Stripes - Black Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44435

How the hell did u find those #'s?

lx5091 · 10-08-2002, 09:57 AM

The only thing I have to say about painting for the first time is that metallic is going to be a nightmare! The metallic in the paint tends to botch up and not go on even unless you're pretty experienced with spraying. I have painted one car, used to have a '66 Galaxie 500, spent an aweful lot of time on the body, then I painted it black so it looked pretty good. But metallocs are tough, unless they have some new miracle paint, but I doubt it. Take a look at any metallic Chrysler product on the road today, it's subtle but the metallic in the paint is botchy, especially the ram trucks. I guess they haven't figured out how to program the computer to control it yet!

1969Mach1 · 10-08-2002, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mustangman65_79
How the hell did u find those #'s?

That's what I was wondering. lol Tireburner knows his stuff. I'm sure gonna miss him....

§am.

fordkid68 · 10-08-2002, 02:47 PM

tireburner163- thanks for the nubers. that will help alot.

lx5091- thanks for the tip on metallic paint. I will deffinitly give that some thought before I decide to go matallic or not.

thanks
ford kid

red · 10-08-2002, 05:31 PM

I painted my car with metallic flake paint. You just have to add an extra step to the process. Once you have laid down the paint, quickly go over where you have already painted in a chris-cross pattern to set up the flakes to randomly reflect light.

fordkid68 · 10-08-2002, 05:39 PM

red thanks for the tip. so I think pepper grey metallic is what I am going with.

thanks
ford kid

6T9PONY · 10-09-2002, 12:19 AM

Another common mistake when people paint with metallics is spraying the edges of panels where they meet twice as much as in the middle of panels. IE where the doors meet the fenders. The painter is worried about getting complete coverage and overlaps his passes in those areas and it ends up darkening and making the metallic pattern much more dense in that area. Gotta be careful!

mustangman65_79 · 10-09-2002, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 6T9PONY
Another common mistake when people paint with metallics is spraying the edges of panels where they meet twice as much as in the middle of panels. IE where the doors meet the fenders. The painter is worried about getting complete coverage and overlaps his passes in those areas and it ends up darkening and making the metallic pattern much more dense in that area. Gotta be careful!

My car kinda has that too. But it's not that bad. Mines metallic, and it looks very good, too bad rust is now bubbling up from under(four years now)

fordkid68 · 10-09-2002, 08:44 PM

hey these are some good tips. thanks. I appreciate it. any more just let me know.

thanks
ford kid

6T9PONY · 10-09-2002, 09:17 PM

I'm not really sure if you're going to school to learn how to paint or if you're learning as a hobby or what, but, and I'm sure you know this, the body work and prep of the car is just as, if not more important than the actual spraying of the paint itself. Go over the body over and over until you think it's perfect. Have other people (that know what to look for) check it out and see if they can find any imperfections. When the moment of truth comes, make sure the car is COMPLETELY clean. No dust, no dirt, no sanding residue, nothing. All this can be disturbed by the air pressure when you pass the spray gun over it and cause dust to get in your paint. Then you'll have to buff it out and what do you get, SWIRL MARKS!!!!

Common areas of premature paint chipping are edges of panels (doors, hood, trunk lid, wheel well lips). Make sure you sand these areas carefully, and preferably down to the metal.

Do the job right and paint the underside of the hood, tunk lid, and the door jambs. Sand all these parts as you would the rest of the body. It really completes a nice paint job.

Remove as many trim pieces as possible. Emblems, door handles, drip rails, chome moldings, bumpers, etc. aren't that hard to remove, and it makes the paint job look much better if you prep these areas nicely with the parts removed, then reinstall them after the paint has dried. Don't try to mask these parts off, it won't work and it will look bad. Plus it's a lot of fun to install these parts after it's painted. Really brings the car together nicely. Remove any scoops and the fender/quarter panel extensions and paint them separate. Buy new rubber gaskets for these pieces if applicable.

Also, make sure you do a great job of masking off. Do the undercarriage, wheels/wells, interior, glass, engine, exhaust, etc. Don't leave anything exposed and just say "I'll just clean it off after it's painted." It's a huge pain in the butt and the paint's hard to get completely off of some things. It makes the job look much more professional when you're done if there's not overspray on anything.

Another tip is this: AFTER the car is painted, coat the wheel wells/floor pans with some black rubberized undercoating. It sets the paint off nice and makes the car look much cleaner.

I hope these things help you out. If I think of any more, I'll post them. Good luck with the paint job!

fordkid68 · 10-10-2002, 09:34 PM

ok this is my plan let me know what you guys think.

I allready have the quarter panel extensions off and was planning on painting them seperate. I was also planning on taking the doors and hoood off and paintiong them seperate. I am leaving the trunk lid on cuz I think that will make it easier. I allready have the front bumper off cuz of body work so I will leave that off and of coures take everything ellse that can be taken off off. does that sound good so fare.

and what kind of black undercoating do you recomend.

and I went to school to learn how to do body work. but I luck out and the school ended up putting in A paint booth. so now I will get to learn how to paint as well.

ok I am planning on painting in 3 months. do to body work. I know it sounds like A long time to be doing body work but remember I am still learning.

and I got A paint question. is ppg paint good to use. thats what I have been told to get but I wanted to check with you guys first. and what is etchine primer. I know it is different then primer but how.

well thanks for all the help I really appreciate it. and as allways I will keep you guys posted.

thanks
ford kid

tireburner163 · 10-10-2002, 11:39 PM

mustangman65_79 & 1969Mach1

It's magic

6T9PONY · 10-14-2002, 01:23 AM

I allready have the quarter panel extensions off and was planning on painting them seperate. I was also planning on taking the doors and hoood off and paintiong them seperate. I am leaving the trunk lid on cuz I think that will make it easier. I allready have the front bumper off cuz of body work so I will leave that off and of coures take everything ellse that can be taken off off. does that sound good so fare.

I would go ahead and take the trunk lid off too, it will be much easier to spray the underside of it if it's off the car.

and what kind of black undercoating do you recomend.

Any kind is fine. Just go to a parts store and buy some black rubberized undercoating. Any brand is fine. Just make sure it's of halfway decent quality so the nozzle doesn't go to shiznit on you. That causes a mess! Do it after the paint job has dried completely. Make sure you let the undercoating dry for quite a while, also. It stays soft for quite a while.

and I got A paint question. is ppg paint good to use. thats what I have been told to get but I wanted to check with you guys first. and what is etchine primer. I know it is different then primer but how.

PPG is a very high quality paint.

I recommend using a primer filler for the guide coat/block sanding process. Do the major body work before hand if you like, then spray 3 heavy coats of primer filler. But before you do this, spray all bare metal parts with self etching primer. It will help the primer filler stick to the exposed metal. I personally prefer using gray primer, and a black guide coat. I think it's the easiest to see imperfections in. One time is usually enough for the guide coat/block sanding process on an initially straight car. If it was a pretty rough car to begin with, two times is necessary, maybe even three. Most people don't pay enough attention to this process, and that's why most people have waves and small dings in their freshly painted cars...

Take your time, do it right. It will be worth it.

fordkid68 · 10-14-2002, 10:55 AM

ok I will take the trunk lid off to.

and yes my teacher is stressing the body work point to. so I will deffinitly take your guys's advice and take my time on the body work.

thanks
ford kid

jim_howard_pdx · 10-14-2002, 01:59 PM

Read that message before mine very carefully. Seems like good advice.

My son and I stripped off three coats of paint and sanded the metal to rough, about 400 weight wet dry. We sealed the metal with Duponts self etching, hardened primer, then shot on about 4-5 light coats of hardened enamel primer similiar in color to the basecoat. Then our shop shot an epoxy sealer, and the base coat. The new paint is using a polyester base coat that shoots on wet and drys to a dull finish. The polyester is thick stuff, and that is why new paint looks lumpy. I had them use one ounce of hardener to every sprayable quart of base coat. Then I had the shop shoot on a show quality, high solids clear coat. Had them shoot it thick. Then sanded out the orange peel and polished it to a fine shine. (This is called cut and buff). The paint I used is Chrysler Platinum, and it is way better than that pepper gray they used in the movie car. Check it out at a auto paint store. This type of build up should be good for 10 years. The cut and buff gives you a show car paint look.

Send me your email address to jim_howard_pdx@yahoo.com and I will forward a better picture of my Mustang. It is a great looking car, and gets very little attention from the Police. ALWAYS A GOOD THING. By the way, my flares and customization have been on this car since 1980. So my car is an original Eleanor prototype--OR SO I WISH!

Good luck with your project. Let me know how it works out.

10-07-2002, 06:05 PM	#1
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	gone in sixty seconds silver hey fella's. would any of you know what type of silver they used to paint the shelby in gone in sixty seconds. also I am going to be painting my car soon and can't decide wether to put rally strippes or not.(like the ones in gone and sixty seconds) but how hard is it to paint. I will be painting my car at A R-O-P shop. and will have help. but how hard is it for A first paint job. should I try it or should I leave it for A later time. thanks ford kid

10-08-2002, 12:58 AM	#2
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Body - Pepper Grey Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44490 Stripes - Black Metallic - Dupont Fleet 44435 __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

10-08-2002, 09:57 AM	#4
lx5091 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fall River, MA Posts: 467	The only thing I have to say about painting for the first time is that metallic is going to be a nightmare! The metallic in the paint tends to botch up and not go on even unless you're pretty experienced with spraying. I have painted one car, used to have a '66 Galaxie 500, spent an aweful lot of time on the body, then I painted it black so it looked pretty good. But metallocs are tough, unless they have some new miracle paint, but I doubt it. Take a look at any metallic Chrysler product on the road today, it's subtle but the metallic in the paint is botchy, especially the ram trucks. I guess they haven't figured out how to program the computer to control it yet! __________________ '02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!

10-10-2002, 11:39 PM	#14
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	mustangman65_79 & 1969Mach1 It's magic __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

10-14-2002, 01:59 PM	#17
jim_howard_pdx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 247	Read that message before mine very carefully. Seems like good advice. My son and I stripped off three coats of paint and sanded the metal to rough, about 400 weight wet dry. We sealed the metal with Duponts self etching, hardened primer, then shot on about 4-5 light coats of hardened enamel primer similiar in color to the basecoat. Then our shop shot an epoxy sealer, and the base coat. The new paint is using a polyester base coat that shoots on wet and drys to a dull finish. The polyester is thick stuff, and that is why new paint looks lumpy. I had them use one ounce of hardener to every sprayable quart of base coat. Then I had the shop shoot on a show quality, high solids clear coat. Had them shoot it thick. Then sanded out the orange peel and polished it to a fine shine. (This is called cut and buff). The paint I used is Chrysler Platinum, and it is way better than that pepper gray they used in the movie car. Check it out at a auto paint store. This type of build up should be good for 10 years. The cut and buff gives you a show car paint look. Send me your email address to jim_howard_pdx@yahoo.com and I will forward a better picture of my Mustang. It is a great looking car, and gets very little attention from the Police. ALWAYS A GOOD THING. By the way, my flares and customization have been on this car since 1980. So my car is an original Eleanor prototype--OR SO I WISH! Good luck with your project. Let me know how it works out. __________________ 1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi

10-08-2002, 02:47 PM	#6
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	tireburner163- thanks for the nubers. that will help alot. lx5091- thanks for the tip on metallic paint. I will deffinitly give that some thought before I decide to go matallic or not. thanks ford kid

10-08-2002, 05:31 PM	#7
red Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Millburn, NJ Posts: 310	I painted my car with metallic flake paint. You just have to add an extra step to the process. Once you have laid down the paint, quickly go over where you have already painted in a chris-cross pattern to set up the flakes to randomly reflect light.

10-08-2002, 05:39 PM	#8
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	red thanks for the tip. so I think pepper grey metallic is what I am going with. thanks ford kid

10-09-2002, 12:19 AM	#9
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	Another common mistake when people paint with metallics is spraying the edges of panels where they meet twice as much as in the middle of panels. IE where the doors meet the fenders. The painter is worried about getting complete coverage and overlaps his passes in those areas and it ends up darkening and making the metallic pattern much more dense in that area. Gotta be careful!

10-09-2002, 08:44 PM	#11
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	hey these are some good tips. thanks. I appreciate it. any more just let me know. thanks ford kid

10-09-2002, 09:17 PM	#12
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	I'm not really sure if you're going to school to learn how to paint or if you're learning as a hobby or what, but, and I'm sure you know this, the body work and prep of the car is just as, if not more important than the actual spraying of the paint itself. Go over the body over and over until you think it's perfect. Have other people (that know what to look for) check it out and see if they can find any imperfections. When the moment of truth comes, make sure the car is COMPLETELY clean. No dust, no dirt, no sanding residue, nothing. All this can be disturbed by the air pressure when you pass the spray gun over it and cause dust to get in your paint. Then you'll have to buff it out and what do you get, SWIRL MARKS!!!! Common areas of premature paint chipping are edges of panels (doors, hood, trunk lid, wheel well lips). Make sure you sand these areas carefully, and preferably down to the metal. Do the job right and paint the underside of the hood, tunk lid, and the door jambs. Sand all these parts as you would the rest of the body. It really completes a nice paint job. Remove as many trim pieces as possible. Emblems, door handles, drip rails, chome moldings, bumpers, etc. aren't that hard to remove, and it makes the paint job look much better if you prep these areas nicely with the parts removed, then reinstall them after the paint has dried. Don't try to mask these parts off, it won't work and it will look bad. Plus it's a lot of fun to install these parts after it's painted. Really brings the car together nicely. Remove any scoops and the fender/quarter panel extensions and paint them separate. Buy new rubber gaskets for these pieces if applicable. Also, make sure you do a great job of masking off. Do the undercarriage, wheels/wells, interior, glass, engine, exhaust, etc. Don't leave anything exposed and just say "I'll just clean it off after it's painted." It's a huge pain in the butt and the paint's hard to get completely off of some things. It makes the job look much more professional when you're done if there's not overspray on anything. Another tip is this: AFTER the car is painted, coat the wheel wells/floor pans with some black rubberized undercoating. It sets the paint off nice and makes the car look much cleaner. I hope these things help you out. If I think of any more, I'll post them. Good luck with the paint job!

10-10-2002, 09:34 PM	#13
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	ok this is my plan let me know what you guys think. I allready have the quarter panel extensions off and was planning on painting them seperate. I was also planning on taking the doors and hoood off and paintiong them seperate. I am leaving the trunk lid on cuz I think that will make it easier. I allready have the front bumper off cuz of body work so I will leave that off and of coures take everything ellse that can be taken off off. does that sound good so fare. and what kind of black undercoating do you recomend. and I went to school to learn how to do body work. but I luck out and the school ended up putting in A paint booth. so now I will get to learn how to paint as well. ok I am planning on painting in 3 months. do to body work. I know it sounds like A long time to be doing body work but remember I am still learning. and I got A paint question. is ppg paint good to use. thats what I have been told to get but I wanted to check with you guys first. and what is etchine primer. I know it is different then primer but how. well thanks for all the help I really appreciate it. and as allways I will keep you guys posted. thanks ford kid

10-14-2002, 01:23 AM	#15
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	I allready have the quarter panel extensions off and was planning on painting them seperate. I was also planning on taking the doors and hoood off and paintiong them seperate. I am leaving the trunk lid on cuz I think that will make it easier. I allready have the front bumper off cuz of body work so I will leave that off and of coures take everything ellse that can be taken off off. does that sound good so fare. I would go ahead and take the trunk lid off too, it will be much easier to spray the underside of it if it's off the car. and what kind of black undercoating do you recomend. Any kind is fine. Just go to a parts store and buy some black rubberized undercoating. Any brand is fine. Just make sure it's of halfway decent quality so the nozzle doesn't go to shiznit on you. That causes a mess! Do it after the paint job has dried completely. Make sure you let the undercoating dry for quite a while, also. It stays soft for quite a while. and I got A paint question. is ppg paint good to use. thats what I have been told to get but I wanted to check with you guys first. and what is etchine primer. I know it is different then primer but how. PPG is a very high quality paint. I recommend using a primer filler for the guide coat/block sanding process. Do the major body work before hand if you like, then spray 3 heavy coats of primer filler. But before you do this, spray all bare metal parts with self etching primer. It will help the primer filler stick to the exposed metal. I personally prefer using gray primer, and a black guide coat. I think it's the easiest to see imperfections in. One time is usually enough for the guide coat/block sanding process on an initially straight car. If it was a pretty rough car to begin with, two times is necessary, maybe even three. Most people don't pay enough attention to this process, and that's why most people have waves and small dings in their freshly painted cars... Take your time, do it right. It will be worth it.

10-14-2002, 10:55 AM	#16
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	ok I will take the trunk lid off to. and yes my teacher is stressing the body work point to. so I will deffinitly take your guys's advice and take my time on the body work. thanks ford kid

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