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Old 09-12-2002, 12:41 AM   #1
Frankenstang65
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Default Head gasket or intake leak?

Ok, so heres the deal...

I've been having a lot of trouble getting my car to run well lately, especially starting it when the car was at all warm. The starter would try to crank it over, but it was like the motor was siezed up...I'd let it cool, and it would usually fire right up.

Around this same time I noticed that I was going through a lot of water. I also noted a "puff puff puff" sound coming from the area right around the #4 cyl.

Suspectng some sort of leak I pulled the spark plugs on that side of the motor and cranked it over...sure enough a healthy amount of water came spraying out of the #4. A firend told me that the reason the car was hard to start when warm was becuase of the water was seeping in on top of the piston and causing a "hydrostatic lock".

So now I know I've got a leak, but is there anyway to know whether or not it is coming from the head gasket or possibly the intake manifold? It seems like all signs are pointing to a head gasket, but I would hate to pull the heads if it was being sucked it through the intake the whole time. It would just be nice to know for sure.

Would a compression test tell me? At this point that is the only thing I can think of.

Any advice or insight would be great...thanks!!
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Old 09-12-2002, 07:07 PM   #2
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My bet is that it's the head gasket. You will need to pull the intake and replace that gasket anyway when you replace the head gasket, so both will be new after you do the job. I would just count on replacing the head gasket, and I would do both heads.

Rev
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Old 09-13-2002, 02:53 AM   #3
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Thanks fot he reply Rev, I suspect the head gasket as well, but I would like to avoid replacing them if it is possible that the problem is in the intake (I have already replaced the intake gaskets once...and had some trouble getting the intake to seat right without leaking, so there is a pretty good possibility that the problem is there).

I was just wondering if any of you guys knew a way to test to be for certain. I was thinking that a compression test might tell me something, because if the leak is in the head gasket then the compression should be lower in that cly than the others around it. The intake valve would be closed, so if the leak was in the intake then the compression would be normal, and the water would be coming in when the valve opens. Does this sound like logical reasoning?

Anyways, if there is no way to tell for sure, I'll just tear it all the way down and replace both of them. If thats the case I may just let the car sit unitll I get enough money around to get a set of aluminum heads and some decent rockers for it...and probably throw a cam in at the same time. We'll see.

Thanks for the help, any other opinions would be great!
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Old 09-13-2002, 06:04 AM   #4
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I agree, just replace the head gasket, hardly ever seen a intake gasket do it, plus, I'd think it would be in both sides of the motor.
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Old 09-13-2002, 09:32 AM   #5
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well, here are your choices as I see them...

1. pull your intake and replace these gaskets only and hope it isnt the heads.

A. Possibly have to pull you r intake again to replace the head gaskets meaning you have to do the intake again...


2. Pull the intake AND head gaskets, replace them both and know that you got it the first time.

Your choice, but I would go with number 2 just to be safe.

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Old 09-13-2002, 10:02 AM   #6
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Default "puff, puff"

You did mention a "puff, puff" sound from #4 with the engine running. To me, that is pretty much "prima facie" evidence of a blown head gasket. But that's just my opinion.

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Old 09-13-2002, 10:24 PM   #7
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Ok, thanks for the opinions, looks like I'll be pulling the heads in the next couple of days. This will be the first time I've done it, so I hope I don't run into any problems...but if I do...I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again!
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Old 09-14-2002, 01:06 AM   #8
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It's really easy, just all bolts, plus the heads have pins, so that they go on right. That way u can't change sides.
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Old 09-14-2002, 05:33 PM   #9
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Yup, all new gaskets thats the way to go. Are you sure, you can get the head off with it still in the car? Jeez, I've got a 1970 with a 351C and I'd hate to have to that trick. It is a straightforward job though. Check the bolts out while your at it, clean surfaces bla, bla, bla, everyone knows the drill. Oh, some people spray on aluminum paint as a sealer, I did and dont have leaks. But then that might just be an old wives tale. Hell, dont forget to check if the surfaces are true! Are the heads aftermarket they could be warped and causing the problem. Good Luck
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Old 09-14-2002, 06:16 PM   #10
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Default New head bolts

I would also use new ARP head bolts if you can afford it ($35-40 from Summit). Be sure to torque heads and intake in steps of 1/3+1/3+1/3 in the proper sequence.

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