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Old 03-14-2002, 10:17 PM   #1
fordplay
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Question starting problems on a new 306 w/eecIV

I'm having serious problems and I'm desperate for help. I have a racing 306 motor ready to go(or should be), but when I go to start it, it red-lines and comes back down to try to idle, but dies. If I try to feather it to keep it running, it red lines. When it finally does idle, it is very erratic and only idles for a minute before it dies. I'm running a DSS-built bullit 306 with Edelbrock RPM intake w/ phoenolic spacer, 70 mm throttle body, Canfield stage III heads, C&L 70mm Mass Airflow Sensor with the 30# tube installed, Vortec fuel pressure regulator(42 psi) on stock fuel rails, Comp Cams racing cam, 190lph fuel pump, 30 lb. injectors, Crane Cams ignition (acts the same when running stock ignition), Anderson Ford PMS, (acts the same when pms is unplugged), and a MSD billet distributor. Timing is set at 14 deg. I wanna say we tried everything. With an electrician in the family, I am positive we are getting the right amount of voltage everywhere. I am at a loss now-am very desperate for help. Are 30 lb. injectors too much for this setup? Is 190lph too little? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-14-2002, 10:48 PM   #2
PKRWUD
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What is the TPS set to (idle and WOT)? Does it vary accordingly with increased throttle? What kind of IAC are you using? Has the ECM recorded any codes?
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Old 03-15-2002, 12:54 PM   #3
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default TPS and fuel pressure...

1. let the car idle at redline and tap the top of the TPS with the butt of a screwdriver and see if the RPM drops down. If it fluctuates, check the TPS voltage and verify that the set screw on your TB is set correctly.
2. Vary your fuel pressure. Mine was crazy until I brought it down to 38 PSI at idle. Anything different and the idle would be all over the place.
...interseted in your success, good luck.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 03-15-2002, 08:36 PM   #4
fordplay
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I will recheck the voltage on the TPS on my next days off. Around what voltage should I see at idle vs. WOT?

IAC? new term to me. I am the only Ford man in a 50 mile radius. Nuthin' but Chev lovers here. No one to relate to.

As far as the ECM, the only tester I've put it on, is the one built into the pms, and the only errors I get are air/fuel ratio.

Hozer, 'preciate the info. I'm gonna try backing my fuel pressure down also on my next weekend off. Might start way down ( I was told that 30 lb injectors were too much for my setup), so I will start around 33-34 and go up from there.

Oh, I am running a stock '92 or '93 computer (from an automatic) with no aftermarket chips-only the pms. I don't think I mentioned that before.

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-16-2002, 12:23 AM   #5
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default TPS...

TPS Key On/Engine Off target:
.98 volts
Key On/Engine On (idle)
1.05 volts max
Set Idle screw .010" then 1.5 turns

I also tested my voltage at the O2's, it should be no more than 1.0 volt otherwise you are too rich.

I believe that to be current...good luck.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 03-16-2002, 06:46 AM   #6
fordplay
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thanks hozer, this will give me a good starting point when I get my next days off.

Will post my results.
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Old 03-16-2002, 01:06 PM   #7
PKRWUD
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You want your TPS to be below 1vdc at idle (.95 vdc is best), and it must exceed 4.5 vdc at WOT. As far as the O2 goes, if it reaches 1 vdc, it will send the ECM into self test mode. It should vary between .25vdc and .9vdc. You still should reset your ECM and pull codes.

Take care,
-Chris
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