rear control arms

bigrichlx · 07-13-2001, 07:10 AM

I need to replace the rear upper control arms on my '87 lx. I'm going to replace the lowers just because if I'm going to fight with the uppers, I might as well do both sets! My question is does anyone have experience with the Hotchkis Performance set up? These are the arms I'm thinking about. Ford Motorsport? How are these? Any replies would be helpful. Thanks...

Stang Runner · 07-13-2001, 07:21 AM

They all are much better than the stock ones. I could tell a diffance with them no more wheel hop. Good luck!

------------------
1988 LX 5.0 Was 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.65@101.3 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Adjustable Cluch Cable, AL Driveshaft, Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks
Engine: Steal Mounts, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back Cooling:3 Core Radiator,

LX XLR8R · 07-13-2001, 11:25 AM

those are good but expensive..get the MAC or Factory Five..best bang for the buck..

------------------
1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
AIM=onesillynotch

89 Cobra LX · 07-13-2001, 11:34 AM

If money is not a concern, look into the HPMotorsport Mega-bite stuff. They actually relocate some of the rearend geometry for better traction. I love mine. I noticed a huge difference after mine were installed.

------------------
Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe
302 - Cobra Intake - GT40p heads - TFS stage 1 cam - FRPP 1.6 roller rockers - Naturally Aspirated
3:73 gears - KYB shocks and struts - Eibach springs - HPM Mega-bite Jr lower control arms - HPM upper control arms

mustangtim · 07-13-2001, 12:46 PM

Hotchkis are loud and stiff. They're greasable, but that's for a reason. They need it all the time. They get real squeaky. They are also a pretty hard ride. Beat me up more than my South Sides. I've got Mac's now. Good stuff!

[This message has been edited by mustangtim (edited 07-13-2001).]

Gonzo GT · 07-13-2001, 10:26 PM

I WOULDN'T TIE UP A LOT OF MONEY ON THE UPPER ARMS.UNLIKE THE THE LOWER ARMS,WHICH ARE BEING PUSHED UPON WHEN LAUNCHING,THE UPPERS ARE BEING PULLED ON.THEY DON'T SEE THE DEFLECTION AS THE LOWERS DO(STOCK ARMS).PLUS,THEY HAVE SMALLER DIAMETER BUSHINGS,WHICH HAVE LESS MOVEMENT,UNLIKE THE BIG SQUISHY BUSHINGS OF STOCK LOWERS.

egiap's 5.0 · 07-14-2001, 08:27 AM

I welded 10 ga. steel to box my uppers. Added urethane bushings to upper and stock lower arms. Coated them with Amsoil water resistant grease so they would not sweak. I do solo 2 racing and this really firmed up rear end and goes thru corners a lot better than with stock set up. The best part is it only cost $70 big ones. Try this if your not putting a lot horse power to the rear wheels. Hope I was of some help.

------------------
Independent Amsoil dealer. For needs or information about amsoil synthetic products leave a message. Ask about preffered customer program.

07-13-2001, 07:10 AM	#1
bigrichlx Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Waterbury, Ct. USA Posts: 4	rear control arms I need to replace the rear upper control arms on my '87 lx. I'm going to replace the lowers just because if I'm going to fight with the uppers, I might as well do both sets! My question is does anyone have experience with the Hotchkis Performance set up? These are the arms I'm thinking about. Ford Motorsport? How are these? Any replies would be helpful. Thanks...

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07-13-2001, 07:21 AM	#2
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	They all are much better than the stock ones. I could tell a diffance with them no more wheel hop. Good luck! ------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 Was 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.65@101.3 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Adjustable Cluch Cable, AL Driveshaft, Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back Cooling:3 Core Radiator,

07-13-2001, 11:25 AM	#3
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	those are good but expensive..get the MAC or Factory Five..best bang for the buck.. ------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch

07-13-2001, 11:34 AM	#4
89 Cobra LX Don Corlione Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Omaha NE USA Posts: 491	If money is not a concern, look into the HPMotorsport Mega-bite stuff. They actually relocate some of the rearend geometry for better traction. I love mine. I noticed a huge difference after mine were installed. ------------------ Eric - 89 Mustang LX coupe 302 - Cobra Intake - GT40p heads - TFS stage 1 cam - FRPP 1.6 roller rockers - Naturally Aspirated 3:73 gears - KYB shocks and struts - Eibach springs - HPM Mega-bite Jr lower control arms - HPM upper control arms

07-13-2001, 12:46 PM	#5
mustangtim Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston Posts: 10	Hotchkis are loud and stiff. They're greasable, but that's for a reason. They need it all the time. They get real squeaky. They are also a pretty hard ride. Beat me up more than my South Sides. I've got Mac's now. Good stuff! [This message has been edited by mustangtim (edited 07-13-2001).]

07-13-2001, 10:26 PM	#6
Gonzo GT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Homestead Pa USA Posts: 21	I WOULDN'T TIE UP A LOT OF MONEY ON THE UPPER ARMS.UNLIKE THE THE LOWER ARMS,WHICH ARE BEING PUSHED UPON WHEN LAUNCHING,THE UPPERS ARE BEING PULLED ON.THEY DON'T SEE THE DEFLECTION AS THE LOWERS DO(STOCK ARMS).PLUS,THEY HAVE SMALLER DIAMETER BUSHINGS,WHICH HAVE LESS MOVEMENT,UNLIKE THE BIG SQUISHY BUSHINGS OF STOCK LOWERS.

07-14-2001, 08:27 AM	#7
egiap's 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Mansfield, OH. Posts: 113	I welded 10 ga. steel to box my uppers. Added urethane bushings to upper and stock lower arms. Coated them with Amsoil water resistant grease so they would not sweak. I do solo 2 racing and this really firmed up rear end and goes thru corners a lot better than with stock set up. The best part is it only cost $70 big ones. Try this if your not putting a lot horse power to the rear wheels. Hope I was of some help. ------------------ Independent Amsoil dealer. For needs or information about amsoil synthetic products leave a message. Ask about preffered customer program.