Mustang Newbie

the_great_canadian_monkey · 04-10-2001, 11:51 PM

Okily, don't laugh at me guys... I have never owned, driven or fixed a car... But, cuz I'm 15... I'm looking for a car for when I get a liscence... I have been looking at used cars... 'beaters' as the term may put it as without much success... Then I go over to the bailiff's lot where they sell reposessed cars... And across the lot sits a '66-'68 stang... aahh, I said as I watch in awwe, Now... I WANT THAT CAR. Who knows if it works, but I plan to buy it. The lot was closed so I didn't get to see much of it, but from what I saw, wheels and exterior just need some touching up. BUT of course, does it work? Engine. I'm preparing for the fact that it doesn't. Now, is it worth replacing the engine... What sort of price am I looking for so I can set a buget, and finally What engine? if I do replace it. I REALLY want this car, but if it's just not worth it, I'm afraid I'll ditch it and look for my honda del sol

But, I REALLY WANT the car... So, yes, ANY information, links, anything you can give would be GREATLY appreciated, like mechanical stuff etc. THANK YOU, and with your help, the car might be mine!

Tom

Ron1 · 04-11-2001, 01:01 AM

I would have a mechanic check the operation of the engine and trans. As far as the body is concerned...there are some spots you need to check. Ask if you can run water into the cowl, (the grill in front of the windshield)and watch for water coming into the car at your feet. If it does, you cowl leaks, which is about a $2500.00 repair if you have it done. Ask if you can lift the carpets and look at the floor boards, or get under the car and look for rot and rust. Open the trunk, and look into the wells on the left and right side, water would build up in here, and rust out. Open the doors, and gently lift the door by the handle, and see if there is any movement...bad hinges. Run your hands on the bottom side of the door. Again water would sit in the doors, and some are completely rusted thru. Look for any bubbling in the paint...hints of rust. Check the mounts on the headlight buckets, and make sure they are intact...these puppies are expensive to replace. If you own a magnet run it over spots that look spotty, if its filler the magnet won't stick.

It's easy to invest 15 to 20K on these cars, but cover the basics first.

Ron

thunderbolt · 04-14-2001, 11:43 PM

yea, I know you are 15 and want the car. Strangely enough I know this one, bought my first mustang, a 66 at 13. Coulnd't drive it for 2 years. Talk about pain. Anyway a few other things to think about. If you are sterotypical, you will not care that much about safety stuff but your folks might. For safety sake the 68 is the better buy. It still has the classic lines of the 65-68 models but significant upgrades like collapsable steering column, and points for 3 point seat belts. I think they also solved the fuel tank block off from the back seat problem. Parts are plentiful for a 68 so that is not a real problem.
I hope it works out for you. I still have my 66 and love it. Remember if this one is not good, there are plenty of others out there even though you might not think so right now. If you are inexperienced with cars it is worth finding one in good condition and paying a little more for it. You will get ample opportunity to learn about the car and work on it regardless of the shape.

Y2KGT · 04-16-2001, 11:42 PM

Another problem area you will want to look at is the trunk floor. Replacing the trunk floors is more expensive than replacing floor pans, but not as expensive as replacing the cowl.

Also, look under the wheel lips on both rear quarter panels. There should be a factory hole in the inside of the inner lip. It looks like Ford designed it to mount chrome lip molding like on the 67-68, but nothing was ever produced like that for 65/66. If this hole is filled up with bondo it is usually a dead giveaway to a cheap rust fix.

Overall, I would say that the condition of the body is more important than the running gear if you plan to fix it up. When I bought my '66 11 years ago, I made a compromise between body and running gear. I ended up replacing every bit of the suspension, engine, transmission and rear end, but still have a car than needs a lot of new body parts.

I would agree with thunderbolt that the 67-68 is a safer and better car. Plus, they don't have the door rot problem like 65-66's do.

Say, that car wouldn't happen to have good doors on it? I need two for my 66 please!

------------------
2000 GT -- Black, 5sp, Mach460, Bassani CatBack & X-Pipe, MAC Cold Air, 70mm Tbody, Hurst Shifter
1966 Mustang Coupe -- Tahoe Turquoise, Pony Int, A-Code, C4 Auto
------------------
scott@pearland.com

04-10-2001, 11:51 PM	#1
the_great_canadian_monkey Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Prince George, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 5	Mustang Newbie Okily, don't laugh at me guys... I have never owned, driven or fixed a car... But, cuz I'm 15... I'm looking for a car for when I get a liscence... I have been looking at used cars... 'beaters' as the term may put it as without much success... Then I go over to the bailiff's lot where they sell reposessed cars... And across the lot sits a '66-'68 stang... aahh, I said as I watch in awwe, Now... I WANT THAT CAR. Who knows if it works, but I plan to buy it. The lot was closed so I didn't get to see much of it, but from what I saw, wheels and exterior just need some touching up. BUT of course, does it work? Engine. I'm preparing for the fact that it doesn't. Now, is it worth replacing the engine... What sort of price am I looking for so I can set a buget, and finally What engine? if I do replace it. I REALLY want this car, but if it's just not worth it, I'm afraid I'll ditch it and look for my honda del sol But, I REALLY WANT the car... So, yes, ANY information, links, anything you can give would be GREATLY appreciated, like mechanical stuff etc. THANK YOU, and with your help, the car might be mine! Tom

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Safety Issue 64 - 70 Mustangs	Mach1 Cobra Jet	Classic Mustangs	20	07-11-2005 08:06 PM
Do you think SVT will strike gold with the new supercharged, 390HP 2003 Mustang Cobra	StangFlyer	Blue Oval Lounge	86	04-08-2004 03:33 PM
t-5, is it the same in the 4 cylinder and V8	ex-lt1-guy	Windsor Power	12	03-03-2002 01:59 AM
newbie question	wantingamustang	Stang Stories	12	06-26-2001 06:46 PM
89-Mustang pulling trailer -vs- 2000 Mustang	Five0	Stang Stories	7	04-01-2001 02:50 AM

04-11-2001, 01:01 AM	#2
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	I would have a mechanic check the operation of the engine and trans. As far as the body is concerned...there are some spots you need to check. Ask if you can run water into the cowl, (the grill in front of the windshield)and watch for water coming into the car at your feet. If it does, you cowl leaks, which is about a $2500.00 repair if you have it done. Ask if you can lift the carpets and look at the floor boards, or get under the car and look for rot and rust. Open the trunk, and look into the wells on the left and right side, water would build up in here, and rust out. Open the doors, and gently lift the door by the handle, and see if there is any movement...bad hinges. Run your hands on the bottom side of the door. Again water would sit in the doors, and some are completely rusted thru. Look for any bubbling in the paint...hints of rust. Check the mounts on the headlight buckets, and make sure they are intact...these puppies are expensive to replace. If you own a magnet run it over spots that look spotty, if its filler the magnet won't stick. It's easy to invest 15 to 20K on these cars, but cover the basics first. Ron

04-14-2001, 11:43 PM	#3
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	yea, I know you are 15 and want the car. Strangely enough I know this one, bought my first mustang, a 66 at 13. Coulnd't drive it for 2 years. Talk about pain. Anyway a few other things to think about. If you are sterotypical, you will not care that much about safety stuff but your folks might. For safety sake the 68 is the better buy. It still has the classic lines of the 65-68 models but significant upgrades like collapsable steering column, and points for 3 point seat belts. I think they also solved the fuel tank block off from the back seat problem. Parts are plentiful for a 68 so that is not a real problem. I hope it works out for you. I still have my 66 and love it. Remember if this one is not good, there are plenty of others out there even though you might not think so right now. If you are inexperienced with cars it is worth finding one in good condition and paying a little more for it. You will get ample opportunity to learn about the car and work on it regardless of the shape.

04-16-2001, 11:42 PM	#4
Y2KGT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Pearland, TX Posts: 21	Another problem area you will want to look at is the trunk floor. Replacing the trunk floors is more expensive than replacing floor pans, but not as expensive as replacing the cowl. Also, look under the wheel lips on both rear quarter panels. There should be a factory hole in the inside of the inner lip. It looks like Ford designed it to mount chrome lip molding like on the 67-68, but nothing was ever produced like that for 65/66. If this hole is filled up with bondo it is usually a dead giveaway to a cheap rust fix. Overall, I would say that the condition of the body is more important than the running gear if you plan to fix it up. When I bought my '66 11 years ago, I made a compromise between body and running gear. I ended up replacing every bit of the suspension, engine, transmission and rear end, but still have a car than needs a lot of new body parts. I would agree with thunderbolt that the 67-68 is a safer and better car. Plus, they don't have the door rot problem like 65-66's do. Say, that car wouldn't happen to have good doors on it? I need two for my 66 please! ------------------ 2000 GT -- Black, 5sp, Mach460, Bassani CatBack & X-Pipe, MAC Cold Air, 70mm Tbody, Hurst Shifter 1966 Mustang Coupe -- Tahoe Turquoise, Pony Int, A-Code, C4 Auto ------------------ scott@pearland.com