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Old 03-25-2004, 10:00 PM   #1
Mo65
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Angry My 65 is the hottest around the block

My 65 can now be consired the hottest car on the block. I am begining to give up on my 65 due to overheating problems. Before it overheated during extreme hot days and at long idle stop and go traffic. But recently it has overheated chronically. Not to long ago it blew my new 4 row radidator. I took it to the shop and I was told that the car had a blow head gasket "for sure" and probably a cracked head. The heads were rebuilt and new gaskets were install. In addition, a new thermostat was installed, along with new water pump, tune up, (correct timing, etc. After the car came out of the shop the car continues to overheat at 3/4 of gage and reaches to almost H section. The mechanic is not sure why it overheats, and gave up on it, or gave after I paid him, I shall say.
I am tired of this problem, I don't know what to do. Some people tell me block might have sediment, and clogs radiator. I am not sure what it is, the only thing I know for sure that this problem was not as bad as it is now. If any of you guys experienced same problem I did, please let me know what you guys done to correct problem. Many people tell me this problem is normal with classic Mustang. Mustanf Gurus, I need your help. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-26-2004, 12:00 AM   #2
Orange97GTVert
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Could be the thermostat is rated too high, I have seen thermostats as high as 195 degrees, mine runs on a 180 without overheating. It had a 190 in it at one time and it overheated.
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Old 03-26-2004, 12:23 AM   #3
Rev
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Default Clogged radiator

My car did this repeatedly. Each time it was a clogged radiator which originated from the sediment in the block/heads. I now use a 4 row, Edelbrock water pump, 14" puller fan, 16"pusher fan, and a Shelby front valance.

When chronic overheating occurs, I'm thinking of rodding out the radiator to unclog it (there are filters to keep the crud out of the radiator), but I've never used one.

Rev
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:47 AM   #4
orlowted
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Default Just a thought

I had similar problems...my car would just start spitting out fluid from the overflow hose. A new radiator fixed this problem...Just a few questions and a thought.
1. How do you know the car is overheating (by the gauge or is fluid pumping out? The gauge might be wrong???

Maybe someone can verify this thought - but I kinda remember removing the thermostat all together in the old days - can't remember why - but it might lend a clue. Without the thermostat in - you should get a totally free flow. Maybe it is possible that there is debris getting stuck in the thermostat?? Anybody know if this would help?
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:08 AM   #5
induction
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I see your in Ontario!! I use to live in Pomona!! Try Victors Radiators in Pomona on Holt ave. They are located just behind Weinersnitzel next to Aamco, just up the street form Saint Joephs church which is across from Gongoras paint and body shop ( the best paint shop from San Berdo to LA! IMO
Anyway..

My '65 had an overheating problem at one point but it was solved by having the STOCK radiator roded out. I then flushed out the block, replaced all three hoses and added a ' inline filter to the upper hose and after properly removing the air from the system she never ran hot agian. (Remember on a stock radiator you must leave some air space fron the top of the tank. Don't over fill) I did the first cleanout of the filter about once a week for the first month and you wouldn't believe how much junk was trappes in it . . Here is a link to where they can be ordered. they can be found locally as well. Ask a good radiator repair shop if they carry them.
Note.. the 289 blocks are known to rust ect internally over the years.

Hope this helps, Let us know

Quote:
Once installed in the upper radiator hose, this full-flow reusable filter captures debris before it can clog the radiator and heater core. Available in high temperature clear plastic (for easy viewing) or NEW heavy duty, machined brass style. Aircraft style hose clamps and instructions included. A must for any liquid cooled vehicle!
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Last edited by induction; 03-26-2004 at 08:23 AM..
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:11 AM   #6
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Heres another LINK
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Old 03-26-2004, 12:47 PM   #7
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Seems like everyone has put you on the right track. You've got to have a free flowing system to keep things cool. If all that does not work,and she still runs hot, the next step would be adding an oil and or a tranny cooler. My 351C was a big head ache until a added those and she stays at 180* all day now. Oh another thing many of us forget, Does it have a fan shroud? They do help quit a bit.
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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Old 03-26-2004, 01:41 PM   #8
Mo65
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Default thanks for advise

Thanks for the advise guys. I am really inclined to beleive that my radiator is glogged up. As far as the tempature, the gage seems to be acurate because when it goes hot, it spits out all the coolant through the drain outlet hose and engine seems to be extremely hot.
I recall using the Grano (TM) filter and it prevented from crap going into radiator. The only problem I had to throw it out because the mesh on the filter tore apart after a little while. As far as the fan shroud, It was still overheating with it. My next step, is to replace radiator and go from there.
Just for your information this problem generated after I began to use diffrent coolant system, the orange type and those flush treatment additives. I am not sure if it was a conicdence, but the change of coolant system, seemed to make an affect on the tempature status. My hypothesis, is that the stuff I added cause a chemical reaction, and chemicals removed depositis of debri that got stuck on radiator.
Once again, thanks, I may resort to having radiator cleaned out, especially at the one place one of you guys recommeneded. If you guys have more hypothesis, I would like to here.
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Old 03-29-2004, 07:09 AM   #9
induction
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hobgoblin351-

The Fan schroud on the 65 is very small although irregardless of it's size it may very well help in cooling so it's worth a try. I never ran one on mine although I have thought about it when I was having problems.

Moises Plasencia-
Thats strange that the screen came apart on the 'gano' ( maby you used a differant brand "Grano" ? ) filter as they are very sturdy and saudered at all the points. Try and just rinse it onder whar flowing water insted of scraping it cleam. I usec the clear one so could keep ab eye on the progress but if I had to do it agian would go for the brass one and the heat and clamps wouldnt effect it . BTY hows my old stomping groungs? Have you been to the Fairplex for the Antique auto swap meet latley?
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Old 03-29-2004, 05:43 PM   #10
mustangII460
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Leak down test.

Exhaust in water test, (Radiator shop adds die to water ,it turns yellow if present.)

Air in system.

The wrong direction water pump/ crappy after market pump.

Stat in backwards.


Too much antifreeze.

Collapsed hose/hoses when hot.

Or any of previous posts.
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Old 03-29-2004, 10:58 PM   #11
hobgoblin351
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You're right about the orange antifreeze. A friend works for transit and they use it in busses. I was going to change mine over and he gave me the head up. They are not compatible. As far as a chemical reaction and clogging up the system....... I dont know for sure what happens when you mix them but I would be surprised. Flush the system well and then flush it again until the water runs clear just to be sure you've got everything out.
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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