Transmission Identification

Kisner · 01-27-2003, 11:38 AM

Is there any way to possibly identify what type and year transmission I have in my 68 coupe without taking it apart. I know for sure it's a C-4 but the tag on the side is unreadable. Even after I scrubbed it with a steel wool pad you can't make out the #s or hardly any impressions the stamp made. I'm trying to figure out if it's the original or not - I suspect it's not since the original 289 was replaced with a 302 some years ago. Main reason I'm trying to find out is I want to replace the cheap, leaking $29 chrome pan with a good quality aluminum pan. However, every one I've found so far supposedly only fits 1970 or newer C-4s. The pictures of pan look identical to the one I have on it now so I'm not sure what changes were made in 1970. Thanks.

Kisner · 01-27-2003, 01:50 PM

Decided to call TCI Automotive back and got a different salesman. This one says their pan will fit my transmission with no problem. I may have confused the previous salesman as I think he thought I had a pan-filled transmission. Now my new question is this particular pan holds an additional 2 quarts of fluid and comes with a pick-up tube extension. I've only changed the pan (not even the filter - previous mechanic did that). How hard is it to put on this pick-up tube extension since I've never done that. I assume it's behind the filter. Does the valve body or anything other than the pan and filter have to be removed? Finally, I'm going to go ahead and change the filter again while there since it came with the new gasket. I've heard there's a pin, spring, or other small parts that are held in by the filter. Does anyone know what these are and where they go back to? Thanks.

Rev · 01-28-2003, 06:59 PM

I put a deep, finned, cast al. B&M pan on my C-4. It came with an extension for the pick up which is a screen strainer type of filter. It just bolted on the same place as the filter. The filter itself was a different configuration than the original though. I think it is maybe a later model filter. I will need to check with B&M the next time I change it so as to know what to ask for at the auto supply. Anyway, the whole deal was an easy install with no glotches. BTW, I like the cast finned B&M and recommend it. About $120 from Summit.

Rev

Kisner · 01-28-2003, 10:12 PM

Thanks for the info. So if I understand correctly, it sounds like the new filter is the pick-up tube extension. Great - didn't want to start tinkering with anything above my head while in there. By the way, my first choice was the B&M pan but they've raised their price to $159. Elected to go with a Hughes deep-dish finned aluminum pan (also through Summitt) for $109. It looks virtually identical to the B&M one. I'll just be happy with a good mating surface with no leaks.

Kisner · 01-28-2003, 10:27 PM

One final question. Apparently, every time I've changed the transmission pan I've either under or over tightened the bolts. Shop manual says 12-16 ft. lbs. Went to pick up a torque wrench and to my shock those things are $69 - $149 at Sears. I don't need one that bad. Any rule of thumb to determine when I've tightened the bolts 12-16 ft. lbs. I read somewhere on the Internet that once the bolt head touches the pan to only turn another 1/8 of a turn. That sound about right?

Rev · 01-29-2003, 08:37 PM

On mine , the extension went onto the valve body and then the filter attatched to the extension. The extension just took a different filter than I had originally. The pan came with the new filter supplied. I never use a torque wrench on the pan bolts. They're easy to twist off the head though, and I've done that too. I would just tighten them with a 1/4" drive socket in a criss-cross pattern, starting in the middle of each side of the pan, and working towards each end. Not too tight even with the little socket.

Rev

joinrdie · 01-29-2003, 09:52 PM

I bought my torque wrench for like 30 bucks from Harbor Freight, the cheap crappy tool store. I'm sure it's not as accurate or durable as a good one, but I've had it for a couple years with no problems.

They have a few on their website:
http://www.harborfreight.com

Kisner · 01-30-2003, 01:59 PM

Federal Express delivered my new pan yesterday. When I opened it up and compared to an extra new filter I had, it did not match. Also there was no kind of pick-up tube extension included. Called Hughes technical expert and they said I could use my new original filter and I didn't have to use a pick-up tube extension with this pan. Hope they told me correctly. Will be changing this weekend. Never seen the type of gasket that came with it before. I'm used to the old cork or rubber. Not sure what this one is made of - almost looks like a hard fiberboard. They said don't use any type sealant and it was supposedly better than rubber.

01-27-2003, 11:38 AM	#1
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Transmission Identification Is there any way to possibly identify what type and year transmission I have in my 68 coupe without taking it apart. I know for sure it's a C-4 but the tag on the side is unreadable. Even after I scrubbed it with a steel wool pad you can't make out the #s or hardly any impressions the stamp made. I'm trying to figure out if it's the original or not - I suspect it's not since the original 289 was replaced with a 302 some years ago. Main reason I'm trying to find out is I want to replace the cheap, leaking $29 chrome pan with a good quality aluminum pan. However, every one I've found so far supposedly only fits 1970 or newer C-4s. The pictures of pan look identical to the one I have on it now so I'm not sure what changes were made in 1970. Thanks.

01-28-2003, 06:59 PM	#3
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	B&M I put a deep, finned, cast al. B&M pan on my C-4. It came with an extension for the pick up which is a screen strainer type of filter. It just bolted on the same place as the filter. The filter itself was a different configuration than the original though. I think it is maybe a later model filter. I will need to check with B&M the next time I change it so as to know what to ask for at the auto supply. Anyway, the whole deal was an easy install with no glotches. BTW, I like the cast finned B&M and recommend it. About $120 from Summit. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

01-29-2003, 08:37 PM	#6
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	B&M pan On mine , the extension went onto the valve body and then the filter attatched to the extension. The extension just took a different filter than I had originally. The pan came with the new filter supplied. I never use a torque wrench on the pan bolts. They're easy to twist off the head though, and I've done that too. I would just tighten them with a 1/4" drive socket in a criss-cross pattern, starting in the middle of each side of the pan, and working towards each end. Not too tight even with the little socket. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 01-29-2003 at 08:43 PM..

01-29-2003, 09:52 PM	#7
joinrdie Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Aurora/Boulder, CO Posts: 57	I bought my torque wrench for like 30 bucks from Harbor Freight, the cheap crappy tool store. I'm sure it's not as accurate or durable as a good one, but I've had it for a couple years with no problems. They have a few on their website: http://www.harborfreight.com __________________ '73 Mach 1 351C+.030" 2V, FMX Holley 750, Edelbrock, Hedman, Lunati Cam http://www.mach-sr1.org

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01-27-2003, 01:50 PM	#2
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Decided to call TCI Automotive back and got a different salesman. This one says their pan will fit my transmission with no problem. I may have confused the previous salesman as I think he thought I had a pan-filled transmission. Now my new question is this particular pan holds an additional 2 quarts of fluid and comes with a pick-up tube extension. I've only changed the pan (not even the filter - previous mechanic did that). How hard is it to put on this pick-up tube extension since I've never done that. I assume it's behind the filter. Does the valve body or anything other than the pan and filter have to be removed? Finally, I'm going to go ahead and change the filter again while there since it came with the new gasket. I've heard there's a pin, spring, or other small parts that are held in by the filter. Does anyone know what these are and where they go back to? Thanks.

01-28-2003, 10:12 PM	#4
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Thanks for the info. So if I understand correctly, it sounds like the new filter is the pick-up tube extension. Great - didn't want to start tinkering with anything above my head while in there. By the way, my first choice was the B&M pan but they've raised their price to $159. Elected to go with a Hughes deep-dish finned aluminum pan (also through Summitt) for $109. It looks virtually identical to the B&M one. I'll just be happy with a good mating surface with no leaks.

01-28-2003, 10:27 PM	#5
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	One final question. Apparently, every time I've changed the transmission pan I've either under or over tightened the bolts. Shop manual says 12-16 ft. lbs. Went to pick up a torque wrench and to my shock those things are $69 - $149 at Sears. I don't need one that bad. Any rule of thumb to determine when I've tightened the bolts 12-16 ft. lbs. I read somewhere on the Internet that once the bolt head touches the pan to only turn another 1/8 of a turn. That sound about right?

01-30-2003, 01:59 PM	#8
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Federal Express delivered my new pan yesterday. When I opened it up and compared to an extra new filter I had, it did not match. Also there was no kind of pick-up tube extension included. Called Hughes technical expert and they said I could use my new original filter and I didn't have to use a pick-up tube extension with this pan. Hope they told me correctly. Will be changing this weekend. Never seen the type of gasket that came with it before. I'm used to the old cork or rubber. Not sure what this one is made of - almost looks like a hard fiberboard. They said don't use any type sealant and it was supposedly better than rubber.