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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: LIMA, PERU
Posts: 15
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![]() ![]() ![]() I really don’t know what to do, my 67 mustang is experimenting some estrange symptoms and I had tried a lot of things but they still. First things first, my Pony is a 1967, Peruvian assembled, Hardtop (coupe) with a code C 289; she is with the family since new, was my mother daily car, she give it to me in October 1999, so I decide to make a complete Overhaul. The body was repaired and beautiful painted (Dupond Candy Apple red) and the engine received some modifications: - Overbored to 0.030 - Edelbrock Performer power package (Intake Manifold 2121, Lifters, 600 cfm Carburetor 1406, Valve springs, Camshaft 2122 – see below for specs.) - Edelbrock fuel pump (1725) - Manley Valves (1.940” Int., 1.600” Exh.) - Ford 289 1966 Iron Heads, home ported - Competition Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rockers - Pertronix Ignitor & Coil (Flame Thrower) - High volume Oil pump - Federal Mogul forged pistons - Headman headers 1 7/8” & 3” collector - ARP bolts and studs After the rebuild and the cam break-in the car was used very few (100miles) and parked for two years (I am a consultant and got a job overseas that took a little longer than expected). When I return the first thing that I want to do was to turn on my car, so I begin to prepare it by changing the oil, but, oh surprise, there was water in the carter, a lot more than standard condensation. After the obligatory disassembly and a pressure test, I notice that the problem was porosity in the block, the last chamber in the driver’s side was leaking. In Peru, where I live, it is almost impossible to find a new block, so I decide to repair it. After an excellent welding job with the block immersed in sand or something like that, the porosity was gone, and I start the assembly. When assembled, with 10° of advance the engine was running irregularly and making around 12” manifold vacuum, and building a lot of exhaust backfire. I try to correct it by modifying the timing, going after TDC until the engine make effort to start, in this way I got 28° ATDC idle timing, the engine was running better and the vacuum was around 15”; my total time, with disconnected vacuum advance, was of about 48°; too much for what I know. I recheck the camshaft synchronism with the help of a degree wheel and was ok, with the 1 cylinder in TDC (top most piston position after the intake valve was opened and closed) and the degree wheel in 0, both dots where pointing each other in a strait line and, when assembled, the timing marks on the dumper where ok. I replace the Pertronix Ignitor with a new set of points and condensator just to check if that so much advance was due to a defective Ignitor, and …it is the same, my engine wants 28° of idle advance. I set the idle advance to 15° and try to regulate the carburetion, but it was impossible to get more than 1” vacuum and/or 20RPM more, I set it the best that I can and go for a ride. Once on the street, each time that I give gas the engine is backfiring through the exhaust, mainly when under load. As a tip, my header gaskets are standard exhaust manifold ones and have being used twice (because of the leakage problem). Now the Questions!!! 1. What should I do with the timing? 2. What about that silly backfire? 3. What about the vacuum? I will appreciate any ideas or experiences. Camshaft Specs. Advertised @ .050 Int. Ex. Int. Ex. Duration: 270° 280° 204° 214° @ Cam @Valve Int. Ex. Int. Ex. Lift .280 .295 .448 .472 Centerlines Lobe Seps. Intake Ctrline 112° 107° Timing @ .050 INTAKE EXHAUST OPEN CLOSE OPEN CLOSE 5° ATDC 29° ABDC 44° BBDC 10° BTDC |
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