New Windsor engine?
 

I was thinking of getting a "Windsor" engine. I believe that's what it was called. But, I was advised against it. I was told they're too strong for a '66 Mustang. Is this true?

Windsor refers to the original plant location where the motor was assembled. It was the design used for the 260, 289, 302, 351 motors for over 30 years.

It really depends what size you are thinking about getting. They made anywhere from 160bhp (stock 2v 260) to a lot of hp. A solid lifter 289 would be sweet in your car, but I've seen pretty much everything in there.

The person who "advised" you against the Windsor, is probably a Cleveland fan, or doesn't know what they are talking about. The Celveland block was used in select HiPo mustangs from 69-73. It was a 351, and it would be hard to get in you engine bay.

If you car came with a v-8 originaly, it was a Windsor block. There would be no problem using a newer motor in there, as long as you transmission and rear end are strong enough to handle the power.

Hope this helps.

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!! I see. ok. :)

The guy was some man who felt he knew everything. He owns like 40+ Mustangs. Mustangs are his life. Anyways, he's stuck on making them original. No mods. So now I understand what his problem was.

I told him I was ganna get it painted iridescent purple, and he flipped. He wanted me to do it the original green.

If u wanted to, u could fit a 351W int there. w=windsor. I bet he'd really flip over that. Then stroke the 351 out to a 408=having fun.

If you want to go with a newer engine you could get a EFI 351w from a 90's F-150, but be carefull with putting a bigger engine in there, You will have a very tight fit to do maintence on the sides to get at the spark plugs/wires, My .02


steven

It's time to replace the engine, AGAIN anyways. So, we'll see. We're looking for an engine right now. One from the mechanic is $2,000 w/ 3 year warantee. We just bought one of those, but the block cracked. (Overheated). One of the pistons broke also.

We can't afford $2,000 again, so we're asking around among friends, so I have no idea what we'll end up with. = (

The 351 Cleveland was not put in any Mustangs from the factory in 1969. They did not start producing Mustangs with ORIGINAL 351 Clevelands until 1970.

;) :p :D :cool:

I have no idea what a "Cleveland" is, but someone from BSR told me I should put one in my Mustang. I assume it's a brand.

Talked to mechanic, said if we bought a block, and all the gaskets, he'd put it in my Mustang for me, for $500 (labor). so, I'm on the lookout for one. He sugested Kregan, called they had one for $800, said no thankyou, so I'm still looking. A friend said he might have one he could sale us.

Fieance says he can find one from $200 - $300.
Plus the gaskets, I think it was $300 for those.
Then labor. $500.

So, about $1,000+ is better than $2,000. :D

I got an engine!!! Kinda....
 

Hey if you are looking to do an off the wall engine swap I have a Mazda Rotary 12a You can have. free! Just come pick the darn thing up!

Ok, yea I diddnt think you would like that, but Im trying to help. :)


Mike

Re: I got an engine!!! Kinda....
 

ummmm, I'm all for free stuff. What is it? hehe :D

The rotary engine is what Mazda put in the RX-7. they stopped using a 4v carb 12a in 85 and switched to a EFI 13b. its displacement is 1.1L HP is 112. Impressive little bugger isnt it? It is a bit dirty, but it is complete. I have NO idea how you could put it into a Mustang, but it is here if any one wants it. I knoiw of a bunch of people who have pulled these out so that they could put a V8 into the RX-7, but I have never heard of the reverse happening.

Mike

Ford small block engines (260 ~ 351 & 400) were either built at the Windsor plant or the Cleveland plant. The Cleveland engines (351C, 351M, & 400) are different from the Windsor engines. Your best bet would be to get another Windsor engine, for several reasons. Parts are cheaper and easier to obtain, plus you could buy a rebuilt short block, and just transfer over the top end parts from your old engine (much cheaper). I would try pricing a short block 302.

Take care,
~Chris

I should probably clarify.

A short block is the engine block, and all it's internals. What isn't included is the oil pan, and everything from the heads up, including the intake, valve covers, carb, ignition, etc.

A long block is the same as a short block, but also includes the heads.

A complete engine is usually the same as a long block, but also includes the intake, valve covers and oil pan.

Since it's your block and a piston that are damaged, buying a rebuilt short block would probably be your best bet, provided your heads aren't damaged. If they are, then a long block would be best. Either way, the parts that aren't included could be transferred from your old engine. You would only need to buy gaskets and fluids.

Take care,
~Chris

Fiance seems interested.

He asked where you are and I told him "San Clemente, CA ".
I just told him you're about "73.4 miles Approximate Travel Time: 1 hour 15 mins ", according to yahoo maps, from us.

He said, "Does it work?".

AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! *sees light bulb above head, tries to swat it away, but it won't go, ignores it*

Ya, I know I need a 302 shortblock, we have yet to find a cheap one, that's all. Any sugestions?

Check your PM's.

Take care,
~Chris

What if the heads are bad. (I don't remember if they are.) If we bought a short block, we could always buy the heads separate, couldn't we?

Thanks for explaining the three to me!!!!!!! :D You're such a great help!!! THANKS A LOT!!!! :D :D :D :D

Gaskets and fluids. Earle has looked into that also. He said all the gaskets will cost $300. What exactly do you mean by fluids?

Water, oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid. Anything else?

-Have plenty of water.
-Have the oil, we were about to do an oil change. So...
-Radiator fluid. Cleaned up the radiator, and put new radiator fluid, plus we have another bottle. But, from what I understand, I should use less than half a bottle, since it doesn't snow, get cold here. And haveing too much just makes the engine run hotter.
-Power steering fluid has nothing to do with this. It's a separate thing altogether. Speaking of the powersteering, we need to replace the pump soon, eventually, because it's leaking, and it's beat up.


Anywho, am I correct in all of this? I'm trying to learn. :D

Did, just messaged you. :D

Find out if the heads are bad. You could always buy them aditionally, but it would be cheaper to get a long block, with the heads, than to buy a short block, and then buy heads.

You're on top of your fluids. :)

BTW, do yourself a favor and call your mechanic and make sure he keeps your water pump in a separate bucket full of water/coolant while it's off (inbetween engines). The reason for this is because the gaskets/seals inside the pump can dry and/crack, even on a new pump.

Also, Check your private messages. Jim just called me, and thinks he can help you. If it's easier, PM me a number he can call you at. This may be your best bet.

Take care,
~Chris

Earle says he doubts they're in water. I'll have him call in the morning. He also said the heads are fine. So there's some good news, finally.

Earle's determined to get an inexpensive engine. So... Nothing I can do will change his mind. He hates my car, this keeps getting worse. Once he's back on the road he'll probably stop paying for repairs and get me something else, he'll still want me to drive. So at least I won't be like my friend Brandi. She's stuck @ home, no lisence, marrie,d w/ a kid, never goes anywhere. K, anyways. Thanks for your help Chris. Did I ever tell you that my mom's name is Chris? (Christiana)

I'm complaining too much. I'm sorry. That's why I said I was ganna stop posting. Talk soon, love you all,

Well, as long as Earle is paying for it, let him do it his way. Once it get's running, you can make a plan for it's future, and what mods you want to do to it, and start doing them when finances permit. If and when you do get it running, find an excuse to come up to Ventura, and I'll go over it and see what's up. I'll run some tests on it, and tell you where you really stand. Keep it in mind.

Take care,
~Chris

Wait a minute. If the heads are fine, why is he going to pay $800 for a used long block from a junk yard? You don't need a long block, and you could get a rebuilt short block for the same money.

Take care,
~Chris

Sounds like a plan, Stan. hehe (Had to say it.)


We would have had a lot more done on the car by now if it would stop breaking. We have replaced quite a few things though, which should always be the main concern, making sure it's running. hehe :D :D :D :D :D

Ummmm, it's $650, the rest goes to the friend for doing the "favor" plus I think we owe him some money for something for the 928.

They, BSR, say there's a difference between junkyard and (ummm, great, great comparison Heidi, can't even think of the 2nd one." Anyone, the one we're getting it from is from an impund yard. From what I understand it's an upscale junkyard. Cars are impounds or things of that nature. Anyways, that's what BSR says. (BSR = bakersfieldstreetracing.com)

Getting the long block cuz it comes w/ extras, and we're ganna sale the left overs. We only need the small block.

if you want, i have a rebuilt 302 sitting in my garage. you can have it for 400, but you have to pay shipping. :) doubt you're interested, but let me know anyway.

Cool deal! :)

If I'd known that sooner I would have considered that.


The way we go through engines I may still take you on that offer. hehehe :D

hey what changes would i need to make from a 1967 mustang with a straight 6 to put a 302 in it from a 1988 mustang???
anything would be helpfull

http://forums.mustangworks.com/attac...&postid=181686 this is my current

A lot. Check your other thread.

Take care,
~Chris

Many people call the 221, 260, 289, 302s "Windsors," but actually only the 351Ws are the "true" Windors, since the 351W's name comes from where it was made --Windsor, Canada.

All the other 221-302 small-blocks were cast at the Cleveland, Ohio plant --same place the 351C came from.


www.ultrastang.com

Actually, that's true. Ford's history with small blocks is kinda complicated. The aforementioned engines were made at the Cleveland plant, yet they are not "Cleveland" engines; they are not a part of the Cleveland family. It's often said that the Boss 302 is a Windsor block with Cleveland heads, which is also false. The block was the same one they had been using, and the heads were a brand new design, which was developed in large part by modifying the existing heads. The results were so great, that Ford decided there needed to be a new block to go with these new heads, so they designed the 351C. In other words, the heads came first, and the block followed.

Take care,
~Chris

Is the 429 a Windsor engine? and also I heard that the heads on the 429 are kinda like a hemi design, i always thought it was a wedge engine :confused: are the 351C heads of the same design?


steven

The 429 is part of the "385" family of engines (429, 460, and BOSS 429). They are virtually the same as the Clevelands, except that they're larger in size. Neither the 429 or the 351C heads are hemi heads, and both were considered to be "open quench" design, which breathe excellently. The BOSS 429 heads were hemi heads.

Take care,
~Chris

is the "385" family also know as the Y-Blocks? and chris do you know if nascar allows the dodge cars to run Hemi Or Wedge style Heads?


steven

Y blocks
 

The Y blocks pre-dated the the FE blocks. They were around in the '50's as 254,272,292 and 312's. These are the Ford V-8's that superceded the flatheads. Performance-wise, they weren't much.

Rev

Dodge had a 360 hemi designed and built for use in NASCAR, but the GM boys cried unfair, so NASCAR prohibited it.

Take care,
~Chris