New Windsor engine?

rustang girl · 07-31-2002, 04:16 PM

I was thinking of getting a "Windsor" engine. I believe that's what it was called. But, I was advised against it. I was told they're too strong for a '66 Mustang. Is this true?

The Deuce · 07-31-2002, 04:42 PM

Windsor refers to the original plant location where the motor was assembled. It was the design used for the 260, 289, 302, 351 motors for over 30 years.

It really depends what size you are thinking about getting. They made anywhere from 160bhp (stock 2v 260) to a lot of hp. A solid lifter 289 would be sweet in your car, but I've seen pretty much everything in there.

The person who "advised" you against the Windsor, is probably a Cleveland fan, or doesn't know what they are talking about. The Celveland block was used in select HiPo mustangs from 69-73. It was a 351, and it would be hard to get in you engine bay.

If you car came with a v-8 originaly, it was a Windsor block. There would be no problem using a newer motor in there, as long as you transmission and rear end are strong enough to handle the power.

Hope this helps.

rustang girl · 07-31-2002, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Deuce
Windsor refers to the original plant location where the motor was assembled. It was the design used for the 260, 289, 302, 351 motors for over 30 years.

It really depends what size you are thinking about getting. They made anywhere from 160bhp (stock 2v 260) to a lot of hp. A solid lifter 289 would be sweet in your car, but I've seen pretty much everything in there.

The person who "advised" you against the Windsor, is probably a Cleveland fan, or doesn't know what they are talking about. The Celveland block was used in select HiPo mustangs from 69-73. It was a 351, and it would be hard to get in you engine bay.

If you car came with a v-8 originaly, it was a Windsor block. There would be no problem using a newer motor in there, as long as you transmission and rear end are strong enough to handle the power.

Hope this helps.

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!! I see. ok.

The guy was some man who felt he knew everything. He owns like 40+ Mustangs. Mustangs are his life. Anyways, he's stuck on making them original. No mods. So now I understand what his problem was.

I told him I was ganna get it painted iridescent purple, and he flipped. He wanted me to do it the original green.

mustangman65_79 · 08-01-2002, 06:33 AM

If u wanted to, u could fit a 351W int there. w=windsor. I bet he'd really flip over that. Then stroke the 351 out to a 408=having fun.

08-01-2002, 10:42 AM

If you want to go with a newer engine you could get a EFI 351w from a 90's F-150, but be carefull with putting a bigger engine in there, You will have a very tight fit to do maintence on the sides to get at the spark plugs/wires, My .02

steven

rustang girl · 08-01-2002, 02:04 PM

It's time to replace the engine, AGAIN anyways. So, we'll see. We're looking for an engine right now. One from the mechanic is $2,000 w/ 3 year warantee. We just bought one of those, but the block cracked. (Overheated). One of the pistons broke also.

We can't afford $2,000 again, so we're asking around among friends, so I have no idea what we'll end up with. = (

6T9PONY · 08-01-2002, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Deuce
The Celveland block was used in select HiPo mustangs from 69-73.

The 351 Cleveland was not put in any Mustangs from the factory in 1969. They did not start producing Mustangs with ORIGINAL 351 Clevelands until 1970.

rustang girl · 08-01-2002, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 6T9PONY

The 351 Cleveland was not put in any Mustangs from the factory in 1969. They did not start producing Mustangs with ORIGINAL 351 Clevelands until 1970.

I have no idea what a "Cleveland" is, but someone from BSR told me I should put one in my Mustang. I assume it's a brand.

Talked to mechanic, said if we bought a block, and all the gaskets, he'd put it in my Mustang for me, for $500 (labor). so, I'm on the lookout for one. He sugested Kregan, called they had one for $800, said no thankyou, so I'm still looking. A friend said he might have one he could sale us.

Fieance says he can find one from $200 - $300.
Plus the gaskets, I think it was $300 for those.
Then labor. $500.

So, about $1,000+ is better than $2,000.

71grande · 08-02-2002, 01:19 PM

Hey if you are looking to do an off the wall engine swap I have a Mazda Rotary 12a You can have. free! Just come pick the darn thing up!

Ok, yea I diddnt think you would like that, but Im trying to help.

Mike

rustang girl · 08-02-2002, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 71grande
Hey if you are looking to do an off the wall engine swap I have a Mazda Rotary 12a You can have. free! Just come pick the darn thing up!

Ok, yea I diddnt think you would like that, but Im trying to help.

Mike

ummmm, I'm all for free stuff. What is it? hehe

71grande · 08-02-2002, 02:27 PM

The rotary engine is what Mazda put in the RX-7. they stopped using a 4v carb 12a in 85 and switched to a EFI 13b. its displacement is 1.1L HP is 112. Impressive little bugger isnt it? It is a bit dirty, but it is complete. I have NO idea how you could put it into a Mustang, but it is here if any one wants it. I knoiw of a bunch of people who have pulled these out so that they could put a V8 into the RX-7, but I have never heard of the reverse happening.

Mike

PKRWUD · 08-02-2002, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rustang girl
I have no idea what a "Cleveland" is, but someone from BSR told me I should put one in my Mustang. I assume it's a brand.

Ford small block engines (260 ~ 351 & 400) were either built at the Windsor plant or the Cleveland plant. The Cleveland engines (351C, 351M, & 400) are different from the Windsor engines. Your best bet would be to get another Windsor engine, for several reasons. Parts are cheaper and easier to obtain, plus you could buy a rebuilt short block, and just transfer over the top end parts from your old engine (much cheaper). I would try pricing a short block 302.

Take care,
~Chris

PKRWUD · 08-02-2002, 02:48 PM

I should probably clarify.

A short block is the engine block, and all it's internals. What isn't included is the oil pan, and everything from the heads up, including the intake, valve covers, carb, ignition, etc.

A long block is the same as a short block, but also includes the heads.

A complete engine is usually the same as a long block, but also includes the intake, valve covers and oil pan.

Since it's your block and a piston that are damaged, buying a rebuilt short block would probably be your best bet, provided your heads aren't damaged. If they are, then a long block would be best. Either way, the parts that aren't included could be transferred from your old engine. You would only need to buy gaskets and fluids.

Take care,
~Chris

rustang girl · 08-02-2002, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 71grande
The rotary engine is what Mazda put in the RX-7. they stopped using a 4v carb 12a in 85 and switched to a EFI 13b. its displacement is 1.1L HP is 112. Impressive little bugger isnt it? It is a bit dirty, but it is complete. I have NO idea how you could put it into a Mustang, but it is here if any one wants it. I knoiw of a bunch of people who have pulled these out so that they could put a V8 into the RX-7, but I have never heard of the reverse happening.

Mike

Fiance seems interested.

He asked where you are and I told him "San Clemente, CA ".
I just told him you're about "73.4 miles Approximate Travel Time: 1 hour 15 mins ", according to yahoo maps, from us.

He said, "Does it work?".

rustang girl · 08-02-2002, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PKRWUD

Ford small block engines (260 ~ 351 & 400) were either built at the Windsor plant or the Cleveland plant. The Cleveland engines (351C, 351M, & 400) are different from the Windsor engines. Your best bet would be to get another Windsor engine, for several reasons. Parts are cheaper and easier to obtain, plus you could buy a rebuilt short block, and just transfer over the top end parts from your old engine (much cheaper). I would try pricing a short block 302.

Take care,
~Chris

AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! *sees light bulb above head, tries to swat it away, but it won't go, ignores it*

Ya, I know I need a 302 shortblock, we have yet to find a cheap one, that's all. Any sugestions?

PKRWUD · 08-02-2002, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rustang girl
Ya, I know I need a 302 shortblock, we have yet to find a cheap one, that's all. Any sugestions?

Check your PM's.

Take care,
~Chris

rustang girl · 08-02-2002, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PKRWUD
I should probably clarify.

A short block is the engine block, and all it's internals. What isn't included is the oil pan, and everything from the heads up, including the intake, valve covers, carb, ignition, etc.

A long block is the same as a short block, but also includes the heads.

A complete engine is usually the same as a long block, but also includes the intake, valve covers and oil pan.

Since it's your block and a piston that are damaged, buying a rebuilt short block would probably be your best bet, provided your heads aren't damaged. If they are, then a long block would be best. Either way, the parts that aren't included could be transferred from your old engine. You would only need to buy gaskets and fluids.

Take care,
~Chris

What if the heads are bad. (I don't remember if they are.) If we bought a short block, we could always buy the heads separate, couldn't we?

Thanks for explaining the three to me!!!!!!!

You're such a great help!!! THANKS A LOT!!!!

Gaskets and fluids. Earle has looked into that also. He said all the gaskets will cost $300. What exactly do you mean by fluids?

Water, oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid. Anything else?

-Have plenty of water.
-Have the oil, we were about to do an oil change. So...
-Radiator fluid. Cleaned up the radiator, and put new radiator fluid, plus we have another bottle. But, from what I understand, I should use less than half a bottle, since it doesn't snow, get cold here. And haveing too much just makes the engine run hotter.
-Power steering fluid has nothing to do with this. It's a separate thing altogether. Speaking of the powersteering, we need to replace the pump soon, eventually, because it's leaking, and it's beat up.

Anywho, am I correct in all of this? I'm trying to learn.

rustang girl · 08-02-2002, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PKRWUD

Check your PM's.

Take care,
~Chris

Did, just messaged you.

PKRWUD · 08-02-2002, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rustang girl

What if the heads are bad. (I don't remember if they are.) If we bought a short block, we could always buy the heads separate, couldn't we?

Find out if the heads are bad. You could always buy them aditionally, but it would be cheaper to get a long block, with the heads, than to buy a short block, and then buy heads.

You're on top of your fluids.

BTW, do yourself a favor and call your mechanic and make sure he keeps your water pump in a separate bucket full of water/coolant while it's off (inbetween engines). The reason for this is because the gaskets/seals inside the pump can dry and/crack, even on a new pump.

Also, Check your private messages. Jim just called me, and thinks he can help you. If it's easier, PM me a number he can call you at. This may be your best bet.

Take care,
~Chris

rustang girl · 08-03-2002, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by PKRWUD
Find out if the heads are bad. You could always buy them aditionally, but it would be cheaper to get a long block, with the heads, than to buy a short block, and then buy heads.

You're on top of your fluids.

BTW, do yourself a favor and call your mechanic and make sure he keeps your water pump in a separate bucket full of water/coolant while it's off (inbetween engines). The reason for this is because the gaskets/seals inside the pump can dry and/crack, even on a new pump.

Also, Check your private messages. Jim just called me, and thinks he can help you. If it's easier, PM me a number he can call you at. This may be your best bet.

Take care,
~Chris

Earle says he doubts they're in water. I'll have him call in the morning. He also said the heads are fine. So there's some good news, finally.

Earle's determined to get an inexpensive engine. So... Nothing I can do will change his mind. He hates my car, this keeps getting worse. Once he's back on the road he'll probably stop paying for repairs and get me something else, he'll still want me to drive. So at least I won't be like my friend Brandi. She's stuck @ home, no lisence, marrie,d w/ a kid, never goes anywhere. K, anyways. Thanks for your help Chris. Did I ever tell you that my mom's name is Chris? (Christiana)

I'm complaining too much. I'm sorry. That's why I said I was ganna stop posting. Talk soon, love you all,

07-31-2002, 04:16 PM	#1
rustang girl Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: LA, or Bakersfield, CA Posts: 273	New Windsor engine? I was thinking of getting a "Windsor" engine. I believe that's what it was called. But, I was advised against it. I was told they're too strong for a '66 Mustang. Is this true? __________________ Heidi 22/F/Cali. 1966 Mustang Coupe Ricer Hater's Club- member # 15 http://ricehatersclub.com/ http://MechaPS.com/

07-31-2002, 04:42 PM	#2
The Deuce Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,325	Windsor refers to the original plant location where the motor was assembled. It was the design used for the 260, 289, 302, 351 motors for over 30 years. It really depends what size you are thinking about getting. They made anywhere from 160bhp (stock 2v 260) to a lot of hp. A solid lifter 289 would be sweet in your car, but I've seen pretty much everything in there. The person who "advised" you against the Windsor, is probably a Cleveland fan, or doesn't know what they are talking about. The Celveland block was used in select HiPo mustangs from 69-73. It was a 351, and it would be hard to get in you engine bay. If you car came with a v-8 originaly, it was a Windsor block. There would be no problem using a newer motor in there, as long as you transmission and rear end are strong enough to handle the power. Hope this helps. __________________ 1997 Mustang GT "The Freak" - 13.80 @ 101.70, 2.07 60' 1995 Honda VFR750 - not much @ really fast (actual data pending.) 1964.5 Mustang 289 Rice Haters Club Member #13

08-01-2002, 06:33 AM	#4
mustangman65_79 My poor 79 RIP Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Suisun City, Posts: 2,320	If u wanted to, u could fit a 351W int there. w=windsor. I bet he'd really flip over that. Then stroke the 351 out to a 408=having fun. __________________ '84 mustang GT turbo '85 LTD '89 Camaro Irocz z28 '94 Lightning '96 Trans am

08-01-2002, 02:04 PM	#6
rustang girl Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: LA, or Bakersfield, CA Posts: 273	It's time to replace the engine, AGAIN anyways. So, we'll see. We're looking for an engine right now. One from the mechanic is $2,000 w/ 3 year warantee. We just bought one of those, but the block cracked. (Overheated). One of the pistons broke also. We can't afford $2,000 again, so we're asking around among friends, so I have no idea what we'll end up with. = ( __________________ Heidi 22/F/Cali. 1966 Mustang Coupe Ricer Hater's Club- member # 15 http://ricehatersclub.com/ http://MechaPS.com/

08-02-2002, 01:19 PM	#9
71grande Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: San Clemente CA. Posts: 85	I got an engine!!! Kinda.... Hey if you are looking to do an off the wall engine swap I have a Mazda Rotary 12a You can have. free! Just come pick the darn thing up! Ok, yea I diddnt think you would like that, but Im trying to help. Mike __________________ A great man once told me, "..." Well any way I guess that he wasn't that great. My garage: 1971 Mustang Grande, MSD6A, 625 Road Demon JR, Edelbrock Performer manifold, Hopes and Dreams... 1970 Norton 750 Commando 1993 Saturn SC2. The wifeys. fuzzy dice and all.

08-01-2002, 10:42 AM	#5
Young_Pony Guest Posts: n/a	If you want to go with a newer engine you could get a EFI 351w from a 90's F-150, but be carefull with putting a bigger engine in there, You will have a very tight fit to do maintence on the sides to get at the spark plugs/wires, My .02 steven

08-02-2002, 02:27 PM	#11
71grande Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: San Clemente CA. Posts: 85	The rotary engine is what Mazda put in the RX-7. they stopped using a 4v carb 12a in 85 and switched to a EFI 13b. its displacement is 1.1L HP is 112. Impressive little bugger isnt it? It is a bit dirty, but it is complete. I have NO idea how you could put it into a Mustang, but it is here if any one wants it. I knoiw of a bunch of people who have pulled these out so that they could put a V8 into the RX-7, but I have never heard of the reverse happening. Mike __________________ A great man once told me, "..." Well any way I guess that he wasn't that great. My garage: 1971 Mustang Grande, MSD6A, 625 Road Demon JR, Edelbrock Performer manifold, Hopes and Dreams... 1970 Norton 750 Commando 1993 Saturn SC2. The wifeys. fuzzy dice and all.

08-02-2002, 02:48 PM	#13
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I should probably clarify. A short block is the engine block, and all it's internals. What isn't included is the oil pan, and everything from the heads up, including the intake, valve covers, carb, ignition, etc. A long block is the same as a short block, but also includes the heads. A complete engine is usually the same as a long block, but also includes the intake, valve covers and oil pan. Since it's your block and a piston that are damaged, buying a rebuilt short block would probably be your best bet, provided your heads aren't damaged. If they are, then a long block would be best. Either way, the parts that aren't included could be transferred from your old engine. You would only need to buy gaskets and fluids. Take care, ~Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!