Nos on a 289
 

hey i was wondering if i could put NOS on my mildly stock 289
it was the 289 back in 65
but was wondering how big of a shot i should get or how much horsepower it would stand??
also if i would need to redo all the seals and gaskets on my motor since they r prob. original

thx alot

I have run NOS on 302 and 351W. Never on a 289, but don't see any real difference.

Keep it to 100-150 HP shot. Don't lean on the button. If the engine is sound you shouldn't have any problems.

Watch the fuel pressure. NOS takes alot of fuel when you're on the button. I would run a seperate electric pump just for the NOS. Never goes lean then.

If the gaskets are leaking now, sure they will leak more later.

It's NITROUS or N2O or Giggle Gas or ANYTHING but please don't call it NOS! NOS is a brand name. It's like me saying I'm thinking about buying a sony for my car.

Where's that pic from F&F when a guy really needs it?



Anyway, gearhead has it right. Keep it below 150HP on a stock engine, watch your fuel pressure and retard your timing 2* for every 50HP.

80 or 100 shot at most. Take the advice of the N2O supplier as to the needed extra fuel pump needed (and other advice as well).

Rev

juice
 

thx alot and sorry for calling it NOS
so i can get a 150 shot??
thats what i wanna get
thx alot u guys

ponyexpress289

Unless you have made a piston change, you most likely have cast pistons. I would not venture beyond a 100 horse shot with those babies. When you use it, pull out 2 degrees of timing for every 50 horse, or a total of 4 degrees. As mentioned before, you should also consider moving up to a performance type mechanical fuel pump, or better yet, install an electric pump, to feed the mechanical, and use a regulator with fuel pressure gauge so you can set the pressure. One other thing to check on the car are the spring perches. Even at a hundred horse, that 30+ year old metal (and I speak from experience) will rip right out. Box weld them if you can, it's a cheap improvement. Lastly, if you go to the track, install a drive line loop.

Ron

spring perches?????
 

what r those and where


thx

Based on your post..I assumed this 289 was in a 65? If so..on the rear end tube there are some "perches" (one at each end) that the entire housing rests on the leaf spring with. I box welded mine in because the first time at the track with N2O the welds broke, and just spun them around the housing, which of course snapped the "U" joint, and the driveline wanted to come in to the cab with me. I was lucky to have a drive line loop...

Ron

Got your money's worth
 

Ron, sounds like you got your money's worth out of that early N2O installation. I bet it was still fun.

Rev

my n2o
 

thx alot u guys
now all i have to do is pass my classes!

push rods
 

my friend was telling me a corvette put juice on his car and blew a rod
how will i ensure this wont happen to me with a 100 hp shot

Re: push rods
 

Start having sexual relations with Lepricons ;)

Seriously. The only way to keep this from happening is either to buy strong aftermarket rods and/or keep your RPM below 6000.

Your stock rods should be fine...you know that rods do sometimes fail on a totaly stock engine correct? Mine have been fine for 3 years with a 150 shot.

Hey, any links to these lepricons? Only good-looking , hetero-sexual ones, of course.

Rev

Most N2O systems on the market today are set up by the jet sizes and that particular size is for a particular HP level. Although it may say it is a 100HP, it is set up so rich, that the chance of anything going wrong are slim to none. The down side is that your actual net gain is nowhere near a 100 HP. It is closer to 75 HP, with a gain of maybe 50 HP at the rear wheels.
To find that out, tune your car on a Dyno that has O2 sensors. I will guarantee you that your A/F ratio is closer to 10 to 1 (N2O on)rather than 13 or 13.5 to 1 (N/A) which is really optimum. It's the manufacturers way of keeping themselves out of trouble, and any liability.
Keep it rich, and minimize the chance of an explosion. NX Express which manufactures the Gemini twin plate system however, are a bit different. With twin spray bars, they use almost the same jet sizes as NOS on a single spray bar. You think their system performs better...of course it does, their 100 HP rating is really a 100 HP because of the dual jets. So be careful and you will be fine. (And do some reading on the subject...Joe Pettitt book on Notrous is excellent)

Ron

whoa
 

ok
well i have another question
today we took off my clutch and were taking the 5 bolts off of the fly wheel when we were taking them off the flywheel was turning also ( is this bad ????) is it suppose to turn in the direction of righty tighty lefty loosy??
well my dad ( here we go again ) told me that that means my motor is wore out ( is it?? )
and the compression is screwed ( is it? ) so does this mean no juice???

When you're putting the torque on those flywheel bolts necessary to tighten them to specs or to get them loose, you can bet your buns that the crank will move, no matter what the compression. You will need to lock the crank somehow to break them loose or tighten them. I just remove the inspection plate and stick a big old ccrew driver into the starter teeth to hold the flywheel still while I do the bolts. BTW, use Lock-tight when installing and always use new bolts.

Rev

Of course, if you have an impact wrench, that pretty much solves the removal problem.

Rev

ok sooo
 

then i can still get my juice?
if its suppose to turn anyway
then that means my comp isnt screwd



thx

As long as you keep in mind everything that was talked about before. do some simple mods, retard timing, get a fuel pressure regulator to monitor the pressure and limit to a 100 HP. It has cast pistons, stock rods, stock bottom end, and its all over 30-35 years old.

o ok
 

alright alright thx alot guys