Oil Pan Gasket

Weyne · 08-07-1999, 07:39 PM

I need to replace the oil pan gasket on my '67 with a 289. I can see that I will need to remove the starter (no problem) and a crossmember (no problem) but it appears that I will also have to disconnect the steering stabilizer bar. For a non-mechanic this appears to be somewhat complex as there are cotter pins and other unusual things involved. Should I proceed or do I need to take it to a mechanic? Or, do I really need to disconnect the stabilizer? Help.

Dave1 · 08-08-1999, 02:59 PM

You may want to consider taking it to a mechanic. The dropping of the steering isn't that difficult, but getting the oil pan gasket on right can be alittle more than you are planning on.

Clark Rodgers · 08-09-1999, 10:33 AM

Weyne,
How familiar are you with doing this? It's not a hard job but if you don't know a few tricks it will leak. The most important one is to make sure the gasket surface is clean and you will need to make sure at the forward and aft seals use sealer in those ares where the seams are.
One more thing, where is the oil coming from? If it is around the rear seal it could be a main engine seal leaking.

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Mach · 08-09-1999, 12:59 PM

Clark and Dave are right, pan gaskets aren't that difficult, the second time.

There are some things I have seen "professional" mechanics do with pan/valve cover gaskets that turn my stomach.

1) They use so much sealer I wind up pulling it from the pickup tube screen. Sealer is really only needed at 4 places on the gaskets, where each side gasket end meet with the end gaskets.

2) Use of clear RTV. I don't like silicone, seeing the clear crap used so far from its intended purpose ....

3) Over torque. Lots of "mechanics" tighted the pan/cover bolts untill they dimple the metal, crush and split the gasket. It's better to leave the bolts a little ( or more ) loose than any too tight. I'm not a big person and I wrist firm torque with a 1/4 inch drive.

I have seen one or more of the above on cork, rubber, rubber one piece, and rubber with spacers.

I like to use cork. It is less expensive and I can usually reuse it.

------------------

Weyne · 08-09-1999, 01:32 PM

Thanks Dave1, mach and Clark for your responses - very helpful. Regarding your question Clark, the oil is leaking from a few areas around the pan. The gasket seems to be saturated with oil. I can press the edge of the gasket and oil seeps out. Generally, oil seems to accumulate on the bolts and drip from there. I think that I may give it a shot as I am hoping to get to the point where I can do most of my own maintenance. It will be a week or so before I can get around to it so if you or anyone have any more suggestions please pass them on. Thanx

Mach · 08-10-1999, 12:02 AM

I'm assuming the pan has been off before because of the way you describe the seapage. See if any of the bolts are loose. If they are see if snuging them helps.

If/When you remove the pan check the bolt area for dimpling on the engine side of the pan.

To do this, take a straight edge, lay across the bolt holes ( ruler/scale should cover 4 holes minimum, 6" rule works ) and see if the pan is dimpled.

If it is take a small hammer and gently work the pan mating surface flat. Many light hits are superior to few heavy hits when it comes to metal working.

Enjoy learning to maintain your own vehicle. Many "mechanics" aren't and tend to screw things up through .... incompetance. Or lack of caring. Or because of that Flat Rate Thing.

From what I have seen, many "Shade Trees" are capable of better work than many mechanics because Owner Operators ( ; ) ) will take the time to do the work correctly because they can take the time.

08-07-1999, 07:39 PM	#1
Weyne Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Posts: 20	Oil Pan Gasket I need to replace the oil pan gasket on my '67 with a 289. I can see that I will need to remove the starter (no problem) and a crossmember (no problem) but it appears that I will also have to disconnect the steering stabilizer bar. For a non-mechanic this appears to be somewhat complex as there are cotter pins and other unusual things involved. Should I proceed or do I need to take it to a mechanic? Or, do I really need to disconnect the stabilizer? Help.

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08-08-1999, 02:59 PM	#2
Dave1 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: canada Posts: 1	You may want to consider taking it to a mechanic. The dropping of the steering isn't that difficult, but getting the oil pan gasket on right can be alittle more than you are planning on.

08-09-1999, 10:33 AM	#3
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	Weyne, How familiar are you with doing this? It's not a hard job but if you don't know a few tricks it will leak. The most important one is to make sure the gasket surface is clean and you will need to make sure at the forward and aft seals use sealer in those ares where the seams are. One more thing, where is the oil coming from? If it is around the rear seal it could be a main engine seal leaking. ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

08-09-1999, 12:59 PM	#4
Mach Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: North East Ohio Posts: 23	Clark and Dave are right, pan gaskets aren't that difficult, the second time. There are some things I have seen "professional" mechanics do with pan/valve cover gaskets that turn my stomach. 1) They use so much sealer I wind up pulling it from the pickup tube screen. Sealer is really only needed at 4 places on the gaskets, where each side gasket end meet with the end gaskets. 2) Use of clear RTV. I don't like silicone, seeing the clear crap used so far from its intended purpose .... 3) Over torque. Lots of "mechanics" tighted the pan/cover bolts untill they dimple the metal, crush and split the gasket. It's better to leave the bolts a little ( or more ) loose than any too tight. I'm not a big person and I wrist firm torque with a 1/4 inch drive. I have seen one or more of the above on cork, rubber, rubber one piece, and rubber with spacers. I like to use cork. It is less expensive and I can usually reuse it. ------------------

08-09-1999, 01:32 PM	#5
Weyne Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Posts: 20	Thanks Dave1, mach and Clark for your responses - very helpful. Regarding your question Clark, the oil is leaking from a few areas around the pan. The gasket seems to be saturated with oil. I can press the edge of the gasket and oil seeps out. Generally, oil seems to accumulate on the bolts and drip from there. I think that I may give it a shot as I am hoping to get to the point where I can do most of my own maintenance. It will be a week or so before I can get around to it so if you or anyone have any more suggestions please pass them on. Thanx

08-10-1999, 12:02 AM	#6
Mach Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: North East Ohio Posts: 23	I'm assuming the pan has been off before because of the way you describe the seapage. See if any of the bolts are loose. If they are see if snuging them helps. If/When you remove the pan check the bolt area for dimpling on the engine side of the pan. To do this, take a straight edge, lay across the bolt holes ( ruler/scale should cover 4 holes minimum, 6" rule works ) and see if the pan is dimpled. If it is take a small hammer and gently work the pan mating surface flat. Many light hits are superior to few heavy hits when it comes to metal working. Enjoy learning to maintain your own vehicle. Many "mechanics" aren't and tend to screw things up through .... incompetance. Or lack of caring. Or because of that Flat Rate Thing. From what I have seen, many "Shade Trees" are capable of better work than many mechanics because Owner Operators ( ; ) ) will take the time to do the work correctly because they can take the time.