Oil Pan Gasket

Elvis · 07-01-2000, 07:44 PM

I have a '67 coupe with a 289. Looks great (a chick magnet) and runs great but I need to replace the oil pan gasket - there is this seepage problem and my wife is going to kill me if it keeps leaking oil on our driveway. I would like to try to do it myself but being mechanically challenged I don't want to start something I cannot finish. I know that I will have to remove the starter which is not a problem. However, there is what appears to be a protection bar (crossmember) running underneath the oil pan as well as a steering linkage bar. Will I have to remove these things to drop the oil pan or can I change the gasket without disturbing other stuff?
Thanks for your help. E.

Dave1 · 07-01-2000, 08:14 PM

Very easy pan gasket to replace. The tube crossmember comes out with two bolts, one on each side. Pull the starter and the idler arm. you should have enough clearance then. Pull pan, scrape everything very clean and replace gasket. Glue the end rubbers in and put a dab, not alot, of silicone on each corner of the rubbers. To much will go in the pan and clog the screen. Glue the gasket on so it doesn't move. Start all the bolts without tightning them up. Then snug them up, leave the heavy arm torque at home. DON'T break the bolts. Many people do. The four end bolts are bigger. On each side of the rubbers.

Add oil and filter and you're done. Drain oil over nite. Leaving the plug out. Makes it alot cleaner to work on.

------------------
Dave Pitt
68 FB, 289
68 FB, 428 CJ

HCS junkie · 07-04-2000, 11:15 PM

When you go to glue that gasket onto the pan, try a little of the 3M general trim adhesive. Hit both the gasket touching the pan and the pan itself. Take care not to spray into the inside of the pan, though. Give it a couple of minutes to tack up as well. I've found that to really help keep that gasket in place when you're up under there, jockeying the pan back in place. Works great for valve cover gaskets, too. Have fun.

Rev · 07-05-2000, 08:54 PM

Dave1 and Junkie gave good advice. My only recommendation is to use a one piece Mr. Gasket Uniseal (I think that's the name?} gasket. It's just two more places not to have to worry about leaks. Basicaly, an easy job.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear,
March under drive pulleys,
13.97 e.t., 100.1 mph
1/4 mi.

mmeany · 07-06-2000, 11:23 AM

make sure the rear main seal isn't leaking. If your leak is at the back of the pan, it could be the rear main (top half of seal on crankshaft end). If this is leaking, changing the oil pan gasket may not completely stop the leak.

Idhomustang · 07-08-2000, 12:52 AM

Before I start this job I would go by the local car wash and put the power wand to work under the car giving everything a quick cleaning will also make the job alot more tolerable then diving in to an old greasy pan gasket job.
The rear mains was a nice touch if it was me the rear main would also be replaced. Take care to insert the rear main with the lip facing forward and besure to lube this with some oil. Make sure you retorque the main cap.
Thats my 2 cents.

------------------
393,750 Holley,Pro Billet MSD,MSD 6AL,Xtr-Com cam,et streets, 3:55,Eagle Long rods
3000stall covertor,Airflow Research, Hooker long tubes 3" exhaust. S&W 6 point roll cage.
12.2 at 113mph. First pass.

07-01-2000, 07:44 PM	#1
Elvis Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Sherman, Texas Posts: 188	Oil Pan Gasket I have a '67 coupe with a 289. Looks great (a chick magnet) and runs great but I need to replace the oil pan gasket - there is this seepage problem and my wife is going to kill me if it keeps leaking oil on our driveway. I would like to try to do it myself but being mechanically challenged I don't want to start something I cannot finish. I know that I will have to remove the starter which is not a problem. However, there is what appears to be a protection bar (crossmember) running underneath the oil pan as well as a steering linkage bar. Will I have to remove these things to drop the oil pan or can I change the gasket without disturbing other stuff? Thanks for your help. E.

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07-01-2000, 08:14 PM	#2
Dave1 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: canada Posts: 1	Very easy pan gasket to replace. The tube crossmember comes out with two bolts, one on each side. Pull the starter and the idler arm. you should have enough clearance then. Pull pan, scrape everything very clean and replace gasket. Glue the end rubbers in and put a dab, not alot, of silicone on each corner of the rubbers. To much will go in the pan and clog the screen. Glue the gasket on so it doesn't move. Start all the bolts without tightning them up. Then snug them up, leave the heavy arm torque at home. DON'T break the bolts. Many people do. The four end bolts are bigger. On each side of the rubbers. Add oil and filter and you're done. Drain oil over nite. Leaving the plug out. Makes it alot cleaner to work on. ------------------ Dave Pitt 68 FB, 289 68 FB, 428 CJ

07-04-2000, 11:15 PM	#3
HCS junkie Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Martinsville, IN, USA Posts: 30	When you go to glue that gasket onto the pan, try a little of the 3M general trim adhesive. Hit both the gasket touching the pan and the pan itself. Take care not to spray into the inside of the pan, though. Give it a couple of minutes to tack up as well. I've found that to really help keep that gasket in place when you're up under there, jockeying the pan back in place. Works great for valve cover gaskets, too. Have fun.

07-05-2000, 08:54 PM	#4
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Dave1 and Junkie gave good advice. My only recommendation is to use a one piece Mr. Gasket Uniseal (I think that's the name?} gasket. It's just two more places not to have to worry about leaks. Basicaly, an easy job. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear, March under drive pulleys, 13.97 e.t., 100.1 mph 1/4 mi.

07-06-2000, 11:23 AM	#5
mmeany Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 6	make sure the rear main seal isn't leaking. If your leak is at the back of the pan, it could be the rear main (top half of seal on crankshaft end). If this is leaking, changing the oil pan gasket may not completely stop the leak.

07-08-2000, 12:52 AM	#6
Idhomustang Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: boise,idaho Posts: 220	Before I start this job I would go by the local car wash and put the power wand to work under the car giving everything a quick cleaning will also make the job alot more tolerable then diving in to an old greasy pan gasket job. The rear mains was a nice touch if it was me the rear main would also be replaced. Take care to insert the rear main with the lip facing forward and besure to lube this with some oil. Make sure you retorque the main cap. Thats my 2 cents. ------------------ 393,750 Holley,Pro Billet MSD,MSD 6AL,Xtr-Com cam,et streets, 3:55,Eagle Long rods 3000stall covertor,Airflow Research, Hooker long tubes 3" exhaust. S&W 6 point roll cage. 12.2 at 113mph. First pass.