Oil Pan Gasket
 

I have a '67 with a 289 and a leaking oil pan gasket. I bought a rubber replacement and I'm about ready get dirty. I know I will need to remove the starter and a cross member. Are there any other things I should know before I start? Do I need to use RTV or anything on the gasket? Is this too much for a non-mechanic to tackle? Thanks. E

Elvis, you're referring to a one-piece gasket aren't you? (like a Mr. Gasket-Ultra Seal). I use RTV on the side facing the block and not too much of it. Do you really need to remove the starter motor. I don't remember having to do that. Anyway, a fairly straight forward job. Don't over tighten those little bolts. It will only bend the pan and maybe break off those little bolts if you over tighten. Good luck with the job. If it's not a one-piece gasket, then get one.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

While your there, be sure to clean out the screen for your oil pump. Might also want to concider changing the pump if it is the original.

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'68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

Diablo, just curious as to how your car does at the track? We might be close or maybe not.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Rev, yes the gasket I bought is the one piece item. The last time I looked under there it seemed that the oil pan could not be dropped without removing the starter. Having changed the starter before, it is really no big deal. I guess the best thing is to just get in there and do it. First time for everything. E

Can't think of anything really difficult there. disconnect the battery as you'll at least need to move the cables around and maybe disconnect them from the starter, but you knew that.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Drop the idler arm too. Just pull the two bolts that hold it to the apron. This will give you room to lower the steering arms.

I second the idler arm suggestion. Had to pull oil pan to get oil pump drive rod out.(Hey, I never claimed to be a master mechanic) There are also some pieces you can get that wrap around the edge of the oil pan acting like one big washer and prevent from over tightening. They serve the same purpouse as valve cover hold downs do. Hope I explained it right. I got them from a specialty place in my town but I'm sure they're out there somewhere else.

Oil pan reinforcing rails;

E7AZ 6A674-A
E7AZ 6A674-B

You can either buy these new or find take-offs. Just be sure your retaining cap screws are long enough for the extra thickness. A stud kit from ARP or Moroso would give you added insurance on torque value/retention.