Drag times
 

I took my car to the stip the other day and they would not let me run it b/c their was no battery hold down, but I ran afterwards with a friend and we ran the exact same. So I am going to assume I am running a 14.7. I think this is way to slow for my setup. I want to get some imput on your guys and if anyone has a similar setup that would be a great measuring stick.

I have a 68 coupe with a 351W forged Pistons, TFS aluminum heads, 1 5/8 Hooker Headers, Weiand Stealth Dual Plane manifold, 1.6 roller rockers, I have a 272 advertised duration cam with .484 lift. I have a holley 600 cfm carb. I also have a shift kit, but I do not have a stall, and I run 2.73 gears.

Now if your lift is correct with the duration on it. I think that you need a stall converter badly with at least 4.11 gears. I would recomend that you take that cam off better. I would put at the most a 230 degree duration with a .456 lift a tci break away converter and any gear ratio after 3.25

Sooner, your car should be running faster. Especially with those TFTW heads. The main thing you need is lower gears and possibly a higher stall converter.

In my '66, I'm using the following: 306 CID, windage tray, crank scraper, TRW flat tops, 9.5/1 CR., 351W heads pocket ported, gasket matched, 1.85/1.55 valves with 3 angle valve job, Performer with 600 Holly vac. secs., 268 HE CC cam, CC roller tip rockers (1.6), Tri-Y headers with Flows and custom 2 1/2" pipes, C-4 with B&M shift kit, and 2500 TCI, 3.25 Traction-lock axle. Total car weighs 3020 without me.

Go through everything tuning-wise. I now use smaller primary Holly jets, lower # power valve, and weaker secondary spring from what I started with. I'm running a whopping 45 degrees total advance on the timing curve. You won't need that, but is only an example of what I found that needed to be done. Tune it yourself or take it for a dyno tune. It took me a couple of liesurely years to get my set up more or less correct doing it myself.

I think I'v knocked off a full second from where I started with a 2.80 one legger a few years ago. My car now runs 13.95/100. I'll bet you do better than that with those heads. That's my next move.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

I agree, you need some tuning if that is an accurate est. ET. My car runs low 13's all day long while baking the street tires.

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67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback
http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg

Thanks for your advice guys. The cam is not that extreme is it? It is 216 degrees at .50 lift. Could a big dent in one of the header tubes that prob reduces flow to 50% on that one tube cause much of a problem. Thanks again, any advice is always appreciated.

217 @ .050 is not extreme, that dent will hurt power, but not too much. I would suggest getting 3.55 gears. Those gears and some tuning should easily get your car into the 13's. You may want a higher CFM carb (I am running a 750), but not before you get new gears.

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67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback
http://www.mustangworks.com/mustangs...1245-slot2.jpg

Thanks Tom,

I added a Holley Pro-Jection 900 CFM, (such a big size only b/c I got a really good deal, it is the analog system) Well you guessed it, now it is bogging out really bad at low RPM's but I do think higher RPM is improved. I will keep trying to tune it down at lower RPMs. I dont know if this will cure everything or not.

By the way, I am new to the board, my name is Joey Higgins, and I live in Norman Oklahoma home of the University of Oklahoma Sooners. If anyone is from around here I would like to know where you cruise so I could get a look at your cars and talk Mustangs.

Thanks,

Joey Higgins

Welcome aboard Joey!

Tom,

What size cam do you run? Do you think doing some basic porting on the heads would help very much?

Thanks

ttt